Hi everyone I am new to this forum. I have a 99 dodge 3500 that I have owned since new. I am recently having higher egts, lower fuel mileage and lower boost. My truck has an edge comp box that I run on 3, pusher intake, pac brake, HX35/40 Hybrid turbo from PDR, RV275 injectors, stock lift pump mounted on the frame with 3/8" fuel line and no banjo bolts. 12psi at idle, about 9 at wot. AFE cold air intake and 4" exhaust. So recently I put a new IAT sensor in because my fuel mileage dropped to 9-10 coming back from South Dakota with 10000 pounds where I used to get 15. It raised it to 12 but my boost is still low at about 21-22 psi and my egts go to 1200 real easy. I use this truck to tow my camper and side by sides all over the country and next year I am going to CO and theres no way I can use it in elevation with those egts. I have tried to check for boost leaks and haven't found any. I am aware that I need to get rid of that turbo and exhaust break so I can get a true 4" down pipe but I have had this set up for years and have not had these problems. Looking for help because everybody I call just wants to sell me stuff. I am wanting to do some upgrades this winter for power and reliability, cause reliability is most important to me but I need to fix this problem first. Oh ya I took my elbow off  my turbo and with the truck not running the exhaust break is wide open. Sorry for being so long winded I just can't figure this out. Once this is figured out I would like to do some up grades.

Also just put a crank sensor in about a month ago cause I got a code and I replaced my vp44 at 100000 miles and I have 144000. It was just a rebuilt bosch from Diesel injection service in St.louis

33 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

You can just put a plug in the housing where boost elbow goes in and see if it helps,

 

I have never had a boost elbow. I relied on the banks tuner to do the fooling since the waste gate opens at 32 or 33 pounds. Though plugging it would see how high it would go. Without fooling it will set the code. I had to drive mine for near 3 years by the boost gauge to keep the code from setting. Got pretty good at it.

 

As far as the VP causing bad mileage, not sure that sofa is big enough to hide behind, but Mikey does not have house to hide behind.

My injection pump only has about 40,000 miles on it, I hope it isn't wore out but anything is possible. It was a reman from diesel injection service in St.louis. I need to check the back of the turbo like diesel future said. As far as my exhaust brake it seems to be working fine but I am considering taking it off and getting a BD Exhaust flange mounted one anyway. The reason I say that is because the turbo mounted one is handcuffing me on upgrading my turbo. Unless somebody has a better idea with the turbo upgrade, I would love not to buy a new exhaust break but I cant live without it.

15 hours ago, oldsilver said:

My fuel mileage is down to 11mpg with my camper and it used to be at least 15.

 

Did you by chance have the injectors pop tested to see if the pop pressures are near 310 bar? As injectors wear the pop pressure will fall and the timing tends to get more advanced and spray pattern get crappy.

 

As for the EGT's I still say it going to be a boost leak issue. Another thing it could be is drive pressure leak or exhaust leak before the turbo look for soot marks on the manifold top and bottom for cracks or blown gaskets.

Ok will do, and I will take the injectors out and have them tested

I looked at the manifold and I didn't see any soot. I just wonder if the intercooler is leaking somewhere that I cant get to

I thought about getting some bigger injectors when I up graded the turbo but I don't want to make more problems for myself.

7 hours ago, oldsilver said:

My injection pump only has about 40,000 miles on it, I hope it isn't wore out but anything is possible. It was a reman from diesel injection service in St.louis. I need to check the back of the turbo like diesel future said. As far as my exhaust brake it seems to be working fine but I am considering taking it off and getting a BD Exhaust flange mounted one anyway. The reason I say that is because the turbo mounted one is handcuffing me on upgrading my turbo. Unless somebody has a better idea with the turbo upgrade, I would love not to buy a new exhaust break but I cant live without it.

I had a turbo built by North American Turbo Systems  (Zach (574) 216-5032) it was 800 some bucks and I kept my original one, you can send it in as core for 100. He basically made me 62/67/12 I love it now that I got all boost leaks fixed, and quad pretty close to my liking. It's a hx35/40 with bigger exhaust wheel and compressor wheel, uses hx35 exhaust housing machined out and hx40 housing for inlet to fit bigger impeller. You may want a 62/65/12 but he can do whatever. Still has a 5 bolt flange with 3" outlet for exhaust brake to clamp on. That's why I went with it because I wanted to keep my exhaust brake. Or you can be like @Me78569 and use he351ve it has a built it exhaust break and a 4" outlet, but you'll  need a controller for it. 

Edited October 10, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

I'm not sure what to do. I don't mind welding the flanges into my exhaust, pac brake does not make a vaccum remote one but BD does. I want to stay with a vaccum operated one. It just sucks its another 1200 bucks. That's pretty close to what my turbo is now I think.

Edited October 10, 20177 yr by oldsilver

What are you guys doing about your stock fuel filter set up with fass pumps. I have been running a stock pump on the frame with no banjo bolts for 15+ years with 12 to 13psi idle and no less than 9 at wot,,usually 10 to 11. But I was thinking about going to a fass system if I could get rid of the stock filter set up but I think the return line runs through it. Any thoughts?

As long as you get a fass with the filters you can bypass the stock filter. The return does not go thru the filter on my 02 and I don't think it does on any 2nd gen 24v. I am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong. My AD came with a pre w/s filter and the secondary after the pump. I did keep the stock canister for the fuel heater but you can just take it out.

Only difference, I kept my stock filter as a second stack filter and you'll be surprised how much junk is captured by a Fleetgaurd 10 micron that a Donaldson 3 micron missed. 

Do you think I really need a Fass with the pressure I have now. I have been running this set up forever. I always get mixed answers on how much pressure is needed to the vp44.

15 minutes ago, oldsilver said:

always get mixed answers on how much pressure is needed to the vp44.

 

VP44 needs 14-20 PSI at all times... 

 

There is 4 ways to kill a VP44...

1. Filtration - Poor fuel filters suggest double stacking and running 2-3 microns
2. Lubricity - Bosch states the fuel lubricity is supposed to be <460 HFRR but all fuel sold today is ~520HFRR (Except biodiesel).
3. Fuel Pressure - 14-20 is Optimal fuel pressure which keeps the overflow valve open keeping maximum return flow for cooling and lubrication needs.
4. AC Noise - Excessive AC noise will damage the PSG on the VP44 and typically create one of the many P025x codes. 

Being my last pump just about made a quarter of a million miles... (243k miles) I'd say I've got a good understanding of what works and what don't.

Edited October 12, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

Sounds good to me I will order a Fass set up. What kind of new injectors do you recommend? I run Howes 16oz at every fill up.

Edited October 12, 20177 yr by oldsilver

12 minutes ago, oldsilver said:

I run Howes 16oz at every fill up.

 

Not that great... 2 Cycle Oil scored better. Also the added cetane reduces your BTU content of the fuel.  

 

Right out of the ASTM labs documents...

Quote

The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." 

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