Need to drill 5/8" hole in top for bulkhead fitting and a 1/2" hole in the basket. 

I'm concerned about the basket since it's so thin.

Is a Step-Drill best way?

Also, I'm told the caps on the T-Bar just "snap" on/off IOT remove the check-valve.

Either my fingers are weak or someone used glue.  Any advise please?

Thanks.

Leaky

 

That is the same basket I modified but not sure what you mean by the T bar. I did drill a hole in the top for the new fitting with a regular drill bit so the stepped should safe for sure.

Edited December 6, 20177 yr by dripley

dripley,

Thanks.  Meant to say T-Block vice T-bar.  Its the plastic horizontal junction between top lines and bottom ones.

 

Here is a picture of mine separated. Never took one of it before I reinstalled it. 

Thanks.

 

Leaky

When Vulcan drilled my old one...harbor freight step drill.  About 3 inches from bottom.  .42 inches on calipers.  Top was already had bulkhead fitting in it.

Edited December 6, 20177 yr by 015point9

18 hours ago, 015point9 said:

When Vulcan drilled my old one...harbor freight step drill.  About 3 inches from bottom.  .42 inches on calipers.  Top was already had bulkhead fitting in it.

015point9,

Thanks.

 

Leaky

 

On ‎12‎/‎5‎/‎2017 at 11:52 PM, 015point9 said:

When Vulcan drilled my old one...harbor freight step drill.  About 3 inches from bottom.  .42 inches on calipers.  Top was already had bulkhead fitting in it.

How many holes were drilled into the basket?

Thanks.

Leaky

2 hours ago, Leaky88 said:

 

How many holes were drilled into the basket?

Thanks.

Leaky

 

He drilled one.  BUT check with other people because...  He drilled one and got looking inside and saw my problem.  The straw which was corrugated plastic was also being used to keep module separated. Most have springs used as tension springs, mine had no springs.   My straw was being used sort of like a pogo stick to keep tension between top and bottom.  But heck it worked without any problems over 11 years and 60k miles.  I ended up buying a new one and don’t remember how many hole(s) in new one.  (He was real busy and had to get to airport for a pick up and his phone kept ringing). Might not be bad idea to have hole pointing forward and aft when on hills and 1/8 tank issues?  

I tried to find a pic showing hole(s) with no luck.  Did find this link below that has some directions starting on page 3 about converting module from OEM to what most people prefer for larger fuel line use. 

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/performance_images/airdog/fuel-module-install.pdf

 

 

Edited December 10, 20177 yr by 015point9

015point9,

Thanks.  I am using the kit your link discusses.  

Leaky

Definitely use a step drill, keeps the plastic from splintering. If you’re only adding the pickup then only one hole is necessary but I added two in mine. 

 

Thanks! Very nice.  I appreciate it.

No question about there ever being fuel in that basket!!

And where did you get the Red and Silver Bulkhead fittings and adaptors please?

Leaky.

 

Sorry for the delay @Leaky88, I replied to your PM.