He found out that he has an electrical draw of 2.8 Amps which is running his batteries down.

 

He has disconnected the power wire from the driver side battery to the Power Distribution box, disconnected the Alternator charge wire from the PD box, disconnected the Alternator feed wire from the Alternator, removed the aftermarket stereo, removed every fuse and relay from the PD box, unplugged the trailer plugin receptacle, unplugged the ABS module, unplugged the PCM, and from inside the fuse box n the driver side of the dash, and his test light will still stay lit. 

 

He has unbolted the PD box from the left inner fender and turned it upside down and visibly checked for any wiring issues there, and he didn't notice anything amiss.

 

He's at his wits end trying to figure this one out by himself. The only thing that he hasn't disconnected yet is the wire to the solenoid at the starter. 

 

Does anyone have any ideas as to where to check or what to do next?

 

Thanks,

Doug

 

 

Edited January 22, 20187 yr by 99_Cummins_4x4

You are going at this the wrong way. 

 

Systematically pull each fuse and measure the Amp Draw of each fuse socket. Now you know which circuit is drawing that heavy load and can isolate what is going on. 

Edited January 22, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

My Dad was disconnecting the power wire to the PD Box from his driver side battery and sticking the test light in between the battery and the PD box wire terminal end. 

 

How would he go about checking the relay sockets?

 

Thanks for all your help!

Use ajumper wire and test at the fuse like Mopar said . You'll be jumping the power to the device 

Still wrong. If you pull the fuse the circuit is OPEN. Now touch both red and black probes to the contacts in the fuse socket on DC Amp and you should see the current draw for just that circuit. When you see the circuit that is drawing heavy load you'll know what you have to deal with by looking at the power distribution layout in the articles. 

 

You should never bridge a fuse with any metal or wire. 

 

You opening the circuit to isolate the loads and measure that's all. 

IYeah I had my mind elsewhere, he mentioned checking the relays and I was thinking truck off relays dead so jumper the relay fuse to feed terminals thereby supplying a connection that would normally require the power to be on but it's parasitic so that was dumb on my part sorry guys unless it's a relay stuck

If his truck is a quadcab check the seat belt module under the center seat. I just spent hours on mine this summer because of what me and a electrical tech thought was a 2 amp draw and after many more hours of research I found it. First off turn off the truck with the driver side window down, make sure that there is nothing on and walk away from it for at least 20 minutes. After 20 minutes reach on and pull on the seat belt with out opening the door, it should be locked and only come out a small amount. If it is not locked and comes out like it does when you get on the seat then the seat belt module us not shutting off. I don't know where the timer is for it ( it may be in the module ) but there is a impact sensor built in to it and if it gets displaced it can keep the solenoid in at the top of the seat back where seat belt goes in on. Hope this helps.

Edited January 23, 20187 yr by Nekkedbob
forgot something