Hello guys I'm not sure if this has been discussed on this forum before or not. I am considering a steering upgrade for my 2000 Ram 2500. This thread is too help anyone out if they ever want to try this to. Id like to know if anyone else here has done this specific kit ill mention? The kit is from a 4th gen truck and was made specificly for upgrading third gens steering. SOmeone on Cummins Forum bought this kit for a second gen and found out that it was a awesome bolt on upgrade for second gen trucks to! Now I read that trucks with stock 16 inch wheels the stud on the end of the tie rods will hit the wheel so you have to grind off an eighth of an inch or so. I don't believe this works for 98 and 99 trucks but correct me if I'm wrong. Anyways the part # for the kit is #51122362af and that's a mopar part number. Hopefully I can try this upgrade soon but in the meantime id like to find out more about it and possibly create an article when I'm done to help others. I think you can get this kit straight from the dealer for around 350$ which is a very fair price if the upgrade is as good as mentioned. Everyone knows that our steering kind of sucks. I think that big tires and leveling kits make it worse too. This converts the steering to a t style instead of the factory y style steering. 

Edited February 8, 20187 yr by Marcus2000monster

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Oh well.

 

 

Back to topic, what exactly cuases my truck to pull to the left? Tie rod ends wheel bearings?  I checked tire pressure and set all 4 to 60psi... 

Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

I checked tire pressure and set all 4 to 60psi... 

 

Well, that's wrong... Front axle yeah needs 60 PSI but the rear don't. Maybe 40 PSI at the most. 

 

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Back to topic, what exactly cuases my truck to pull to the left?

 

I would say either toe or tierods are getting sloppy. Possibly a track bar. 

 

 

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Well, that's wrong... Front axle yeah needs 60 PSI but the rear don't. Maybe 40 PSI at the most. 

 

 

I would say either toe or tierods are getting sloppy. Possibly a track bar. 

 

 

Tag on inside of door said 60 all around I thought ill double check and adjust accordingly.

 Ill take a look at the track bar and tie rods. Iv heard of jacking up the front and using a spud bar to try to lift the tires but I'm not sure the reason why you would do it? Wheel bearings?

up and down, ball joints. Side to side wheel bearings. Worth checking. Get under the truck and have some one turn the wheel back and forth and look at every thing that moves. You are looking for sloppy or loose joints. Another thing is to sit in the cab and turn the wheel a few inches either way about a quarter turn while looking over the hood. If the track bar is shot you can watch the front of the truck move side to side before the wheels actually start moving. All this with engine running.

9 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Tag on inside of door said 60 all around I thought ill double check and adjust accordingly.

 

That is for maximum payload. 

 

Check out my article on tire pressure it will get you really close to right.

 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That is for maximum payload. 

 

Check out my article on tire pressure it will get you really close to right.

 

Thanks

Empty truck + 80 psi = Fred Flintstone tires. I rode around like that for a while cause I thought you were supposed to. That was pretty good beating I got until I learned better

2 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

How many miles on your coopers?

I have about 8k miles on them right now, still look new.  I'm still getting a solid 18mpg even with extra winter idling.  Obviously I could be doing better with smaller tires, but I'm still getting 4mpg more than my ford so I am still quite happy. 

22 minutes ago, Sycostang67 said:

I have about 8k miles on them right now, still look new.  I'm still getting a solid 18mpg even with extra winter idling.  Obviously I could be doing better with smaller tires, but I'm still getting 4mpg more than my ford so I am still quite happy. 

 

From his signature.

 

Quote

2001 Ram 2500 QCLB, 4X4, 3:55

 

As I said... Alters the final gearing...

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/13623-2000-to-2002-steering-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=171749

 

Edited February 10, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

3 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Iv heard of jacking up the front and using a spud bar to try to lift the tires but I'm not sure the reason why you would do it? Wheel bearings?

With the waight of the truck on front axle you're not going to see slop very easy, if it was a civic maybe. Put axle on jack stands, best to have two people one wiggling one looking. 

If you dont have jack stands you can do one wheel at a time with your jack. I always leave my wheels on the ground for checking the steering components.

4 hours ago, dripley said:

If you dont have jack stands you can do one wheel at a time with your jack. I always leave my wheels on the ground for checking the steering components.

I have some friends with jack stands so I should be able to use them. This didn't start till after I went into the ditch after our first snow here in MT so that's problably what messed it up lol. Used to drive straight and true for me. One thing I hate about my truck is it is extremely hard to turn the wheel when its cold. This is normal because of cold making fluids thick correct? 

18 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I have some friends with jack stands so I should be able to use them. This didn't start till after I went into the ditch after our first snow here in MT so that's problably what messed it up lol. Used to drive straight and true for me. One thing I hate about my truck is it is extremely hard to turn the wheel when its cold. This is normal because of cold making fluids thick correct? 

I would say you knocked it out alignment or bent something or both. An alignment might fix it. I would still take a look under the truck and check every joint in the steering first. If tie rod ends or track bar or ball joints they want align it. They will tell you what it will cost to fix it so they can. My first time going for an anlignment was at 240k. Though the truck wandered a good bit I never had much uneven tire wear until then. Any way they told what all was wrong and the total would be $900. I thanked and started looking for parts. Ended spending less than the 900 and replaced everything. That included buying a deluxe ball joint press and a few other tools, you can borrow one from most auto parts places. Worked on it for 2 or 3 days. Could be done in less if you stick with it. I take as many beer breaks or whatever as I like.

 As far as the jack stands, i usually just do one wheel at time for checking the ball joints and wheel bearing. When its time to replace all that steering stuff jack stands are necessary.

 The only time my steering seems hard to turn is when my tire pressure is low. Got a slow leak in my right front that let's me know that occasionally. I most likely am not seeing the temps as low as you are however. Could be your fluid too. If it has not been changed in a long time you might might be due for flush. 

 

3 minutes ago, dripley said:

I would say you knocked it out alignment or bent something or both. An alignment might fix it. I would still take a look under the truck and check every joint in the steering first. If tie rod ends or track bar or ball joints they want align it. They will tell you what it will cost to fix it so they can. My first time going for an anlignment was at 240k. Though the truck wandered a good bit I never had much uneven tire wear until then. Any way they told what all was wrong and the total would be $900. I thanked and started looking for parts. Ended spending less than the 900 and replaced everything. That included buying a deluxe ball joint press and a few other tools, you can borrow one from most auto parts places. Worked on it for 2 or 3 days. Could be done in less if you stick with it. I take as many beer breaks or whatever as I like.

 As far as the jack stands, i usually just do one wheel at time for checking the ball joints and wheel bearing. When its time to replace all that steering stuff jack stands are necessary.

 The only time my steering seems hard to turn is when my tire pressure is low. Got a slow leak in my right front that let's me know that occasionally. I most likely am not seeing the temps as low as you are however. Could be your fluid too. If it has not been changed in a long time you might might be due for flush. 

 

I do plan to flush it soon. DO you know how much fluid is needed to flush the pump? I have also considered getting a aftermarket power steering pump which is supposed to make steering easier? https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-17090-borgeson-800328-high-flow-power-steering-pump-upgrade-94-02-dodge-ram-2500-3500.aspx

 

It usually seems alright until I see below 25 30 degrees. I'm sure that has a lot to do with it. Tire pressure on my truck is too high if anything lol. 

7 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I do plan to flush it soon. DO you know how much fluid is needed to flush the pump? I have also considered getting a aftermarket power steering pump which is supposed to make steering easier? https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-17090-borgeson-800328-high-flow-power-steering-pump-upgrade-94-02-dodge-ram-2500-3500.aspx

 

It usually seems alright until I see below 25 30 degrees. I'm sure that has a lot to do with it. Tire pressure on my truck is too high if anything lol. 

 I still have the oe pump on mine at 434k and the only trouble i have ever was with low air pressure or low fluid. Many years ago I lost some fluid, never found a leak, not sure what happened. I replaced what was lost and it never happened again.

 I know a lot of folks are going to cringe with this, but you could suck out the fluid from the reservoir and fill it back up and see if that helps. I have done this a few times over the years with success. This does NOT take the place of flush by any means and if you put new parts on definitely flush it before replacing the part. This will waste some fluid but you dont want to flush a bunch of dirty fluid thru the brand new part. I don't remember how much fluid you need but 2 or 3 quarts should be a plenty. Return any unopened bottles or keep for later.

2 minutes ago, dripley said:

 I still have the oe pump on mine at 434k and the only trouble i have ever was with low air pressure or low fluid. Many years ago I lost some fluid, never found a leak, not sure what happened. I replaced what was lost and it never happened again.

 I know a lot of folks are going to cringe with this, but you could suck out the fluid from the reservoir and fill it back up and see if that helps. I have done this a few times over the years with success. This does NOT take the place of flush by any means and if you put new parts on definitely flush it before replacing the part. This will waste some fluid but you dont want to flush a bunch of dirty fluid thru the brand new part. I don't remember how much fluid you need but 2 or 3 quarts should be a plenty. Return any unopened bottles or keep for later.

Whats the best means of flushing? Siphon out and refill repeatedly whilst having someone turn the wheels back and forth? 

Take the retrun line from the steering box loose at the power steering pump and plug the hole. Stick that line in a bucket or any good receptical. Then make sure the the resevoir is full, crank the truck and work the wheel. Be sure to keep the reservoir full or you will get air in the system. If you do get air in and the fluid foams you will have to let it sit for the air to float out and repeat until it is gone. Do this until until it runs as clean as what you are putting in.

 And IIRC you dont want to touch the brake pedal while doing this.

39 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Whats the best means of flushing? Siphon out and refill repeatedly whilst having someone turn the wheels back and forth? 

You can do it this way and see if it helps but it will leave some crud behind. But you will know if the fluid is the problem.

Edited February 10, 20187 yr by dripley

36 minutes ago, dripley said:

Take the retrun line from the steering box loose at the power steering pump and plug the hole. Stick that line in a bucket or any good receptical. Then make sure the the resevoir is full, crank the truck and work the wheel. Be sure to keep the reservoir full or you will get air in the system. If you do get air in and the fluid foams you will have to let it sit for the air to float out and repeat until it is gone. Do this until until it runs as clean as what you are putting in.

 And IIRC you dont want to touch the brake pedal while doing this.

You can do it this way and see if it helps but it will leave some crud behind. But you will know if the fluid is the problem.

Thank you! 

On 2/9/2018 at 2:51 PM, Sycostang67 said:

But Mike, cool is everything!

 

Sometimes I wonder...

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Sometimes I wonder...

What has he been smoking? 

I looked around under the truck but everything seemed tight. only weird thing I saw was the bracket connecting the bar from

the frame to the axle was bent a little.