A few days ago I started having starting issues. It use to barely even turn a full turn before she crunk up. Then a few days ago she started turning over several times as if the batteries were going low. Once she started my voltage guage quickly rose back up to 14+ volts and ran perfect. Yesterday she finally decided she didn't want to start and would only spin over. I hooked my charger up to them and let them charge for a little while and still the same just spun a little quicker. Thought I may not be getting any fuel so I cracked an injector line 3&5 and no fuel came out but filter bowl was slap full. Thinking it had to be a voltage issue I pulled the batteries brought them to AutoZone today to have them tested and both tested good but at 67% when they were both around 95% the previous night after charging them. So I went ahead and bought 2 new Interstate Megatron plus 1000 CA 810 CCA batteries. Brought them home dropped them in and same thing happened spun over but no start. Diconnected all the battery terminal ends again cleaned them all up really nice and shiny and put them back on and still the same for the first 2-3 tries. Now I turn the key and I get NOTHING. Even hooked both my charger and jump starter to the batteries and I get nothing! No turn over just silence. I checked my grounds at the block on both sides cleaned them up and checked the other grounds under the hood and cleaned those as well. Did the key turn trick and got these codes: 

PCU- 1693

ECU- 0237, 1689, 0232, 1688, 0230

I'm stuck! Luckly when she decided she didn't won't to work any more I had made it home so she is in the driveway. However she is my DD and my only ride without taking the wife's car. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I need to get her back on the road ASAP!!! 

 

Did not research the codes but how is your starter? It will mimic weak bateries.

Edited February 22, 20187 yr by dripley

Check the 14 AWG brown wire for voltage at the starter motor when the key is turned to the start position.

 

If voltage then remove starter an inspect contacts in solenoids. 

 

If no voltage check for voltage at fuse #9 in the PDC.  If fuse is good then check for voltage at pin #30 of starter relay.  If no voltage check for open circuit between fuse and relay.

 

If voltage at pin #30 then check for voltage at pin #86 of starter relay when key is turned to the start position.  If no voltage check for open circuit between ignition switch and relay or bad ignition switch. 

 

If voltage at pin #86 then check for ground with an ohm meter at pin #85 of the fuel pump relay.  If ground is good then replace relay, try another one from the PDC.  If ground is bad then check the wires going to the park/neutral position switch.

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These are the two codes I'd be looking at next after the starter problem is resolved.

 

There may be a bad injection pump.

 

 

 

  

6 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Check the 14 AWG brown wire for voltage at the starter motor when the key is turned to the start position.

 

If voltage then remove starter an inspect contacts in solenoids. 

 

If no voltage check for voltage at fuse #9 in the PDC.  If fuse is good then check for voltage at pin #30 of starter relay.  If no voltage check for open circuit between fuse and relay.

 

If voltage at pin #30 then check for voltage at pin #86 of starter relay when key is turned to the start position.  If no voltage check for open circuit between ignition switch and relay or bad ignition switch. 

 

If voltage at pin #86 then check for ground with an ohm meter at pin #85 of the fuel pump relay.  If ground is good then replace relay, try another one from the PDC.  If ground is bad then check the wires going to the park/neutral position switch.

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These are the two codes I'd be looking at next after the starter problem is resolved.

 

There may be a bad injection pump.

I just replaced the contacts and plunger in the starter solenoid maybe a month or so ago. The contacts were very worn but original. Thanks for the info I will check all mentioned when I get home from work this afternoon. Had to make the wife bring me, thankfully she can.

Yes the VP codes scared me but I know voltage issues, bad batteries, etc can also cause those same codes bc it's not letting truck talk to the vp. I just dropped 2.5k into this truck between turbo, Injectors, head studs, etc I really hope I'm not going to have to dump another 1500 into a VP. 

 

 

  

 

Tried to crank it when I got home from work and same thing turn key and nothing just silence with a couple clicks coming from the relays under the hood. I had ordered a new terminal end kit from LarryBs last week thinking my ends may be part of the problem bc they wouldn't get tight. Well they came in today so I removed all the cables and changed and cleaned up all the cable ends. When I put it all back together I tried to start her again. She turned over just a few turns very weak and then went silent again.  This has me thinking it has to be either the ignition or starter. Am I thinking wrong? Tomorrow after work I'll try the few tests IBMobile mentioned above. Was just hoping the new terminal ends would fix it. By the time I got everything together I was already working in the dark so couldn't see well enough try the other tests. 

Brig,

 

The contacts in the starter solenoid are a common failure. (relatively)   Larry B's has a great replacement.  http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-denso-starter-solenoid-kit-89-2006.html

 

You may want to grab that kit, and take the starter to a good reputable repair shop.  (or try the contacts yourself and see if it does the trick.) This would make sure that there is not a further problem in the widings or gear reduction. 

 

Hope that helps!

 

Hag

2 hours ago, Haggar said:

Brig,

 

The contacts in the starter solenoid are a common failure. (relatively)   Larry B's has a great replacement.  http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-denso-starter-solenoid-kit-89-2006.html

 

You may want to grab that kit, and take the starter to a good reputable repair shop.  (or try the contacts yourself and see if it does the trick.) This would make sure that there is not a further problem in the widings or gear reduction. 

 

Hope that helps!

 

Hag

I just installed this same kit about a month ago also just installed his termianl end kit since my ends were looking pretty rough. Cleaned all the grounds good as well from block to frame. I will try to jump the starter this afternoon and see if that does anything and if not I will run down to AutoZone and pick up a new one just to see if it works. I've already talked to both BlueChip and Thoroughbred about my issue and both said it sounds more like a low voltage or other electrical problem. I am throwing the 1688 code which is a VP death code but both also said this code can be thrown if the VP module isnt seeing a full 12V and it also won't supply fuel without the full 12V. So will be testing the starter today. 

Edited February 23, 20187 yr by Brignac
Misspelled words

Brig,

 

Sorry about that.  I must have missed it in the list of stuff you did. 

 

Good luck!  (I agree, it matters not the codes, it won't start if it won't spin.) 

 

Hope you figure it out!

 

Hag

Update:

I tried to jump the starter and got just a few sparks but nothing else. Pulled the starter and bought a new duralast starter from autozone. Installed the new starter and now it is turning over again. However, it still will not start. I tried bleeding the injector lines while the wife was turning over my truck I cracked numbers 1,3,&4. I had pretty decent flow out of the #4 line but only some out of 1 & 3. Would this mean the VP is gone?? 

Did you tignten them down as you got fuel to to them? As 4 gets good fuel tighten it down and so on and so on.

yes tightened 4 down as soon as it had good flow, but 1&3 just continued to barely come out. It actually wouldnt come out of 1&3 at all without completely undoing the line and pulling the line away from the head.