On the way home the other day and my truck started to sputter, on and off with the power basically had a mind of its own, peddle completely dropping off. Threw a bunch of codes, alot of out of voltage codes and of course the P0606 code. Temp gauge would also bounce around.Where is the best place to get a remanded ECM? Below is a video I found on YouTube of another 24v doing the same thing.

 

 

Edited March 31, 20187 yr by Callsign

There is a thread saved on this site of Known good and bad ECM re-manufacturers

I dont know how to find that thread , some one will post it shortly.

 

My bad ECM just had a delayed boot up when you turned the ignition switch on

 

I got a good ECM

 

 

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Edited March 31, 20187 yr by GSP7

It's in the article database right here.

 

May also want to fix your problem that fried the ecm before you put new one in

Test your alternator for excessive AC noise. If you have any wiring modifications, tin foil or noise filter on the PCM for TQ converter lock up issues you might want to return all electrical back to stock and ditch that tin foil and noise filter. 

 

 

I concur

 

I had a bad alternator diodes and my ECM had a delayed boot up

 

I rebuilt my alternator with new diode pack and replaced the brushes too

 Rechecked my alternator AC out put.with my fluke multi-meter...was good

 

Then I broke down and spent the bucks on a New ECM.... All is good and working great now

 

 

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Thank you it another point on the score card for AC noise issues.

Is it just me, or have there been close to a dozen ECM failures over the past month or two?

1 hour ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Is it just me, or have there been close to a dozen ECM failures over the past month or two?

 

Grid heater season. Good way to kill the alternator diodes. I unhooked my grid heaters and no longer have an alternator issue.

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Grid heater season. Good way to kill the alternator diodes. I unhooked my grid heaters and no longer have an alternator issue.

So I know it's been said before about the grid heaters, but are we sure that's what the problem mainly is? 

 

What's going bad on these heaters after years of use? Elements, relays, ??

The only theory I've got is the heater elements are drawing more current as they age, putting this load on the alternator. The relay are just a switch if the contact were bad the current flow would be reduced just like starter contacts. But in this case the load is increased and alternator diodes are overheating and blowing out. 

8 minutes ago, Alexio Auditore said:

So I know it's been said before about the grid heaters, but are we sure that's what the problem mainly is? 

 

What's going bad on these heaters after years of use? Elements, relays, ??

 

Nuttins goin' bad on the grid heaters ..... Its the massive draw and cycling they put on the alternator and batterys,,, Is my thinking

 

 

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So new grid heaters or disconnecting them seems to be the solution?

10 minutes ago, Alexio Auditore said:

disconnecting them seems to be the solution?

 

This is a for sure solution.

11 minutes ago, Alexio Auditore said:

So new grid heaters

 

This isn't a for sure bet yet.

I just disconnected my grid heaters a couple months ago. 

 

My truck always cycled engine RPM up and down when first start up at Idle ,,, I used to think that was some kind of computer warm up cycle. Dumb guess

 

Was that just the grid heater drawing current and the alternator charging that caused that engine RPM up and down at idle?

 

It doesnt do that idle rpm cycle anymore after I disconnection the grid heats

2 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

Was that just the grid heater drawing current and the alternator charging that caused that engine RPM up and down at idle?

 

Yes. The Grid heaters can draw upwards of 195 Amps with both heaters active and the alternator only produces 140 Amps at 2,000 RPM but at idle it's much lower. So the PCM tells the alternator full speed ahead and ramps up the field lead to max voltage which now creates a huge load on the engine. Then when the grid heater turns off the PCM throttles back and the engine load decreases again.

Do you guys run with or without the grid heater?

14 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes. The Grid heaters can draw upwards of 195 Amps with both heaters active and the alternator only produces 140 Amps at 2,000 RPM but at idle it's much lower. So the PCM tells the alternator full speed ahead and ramps up the field lead to max voltage which now creates a huge load on the engine. Then when the grid heater turns off the PCM throttles back and the engine load decreases again.

 

  

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Callsign said:

Do you guys run with or without the grid heater?

 

Let's put it this way.

 

Either change alternators every 4-9 months with the grid heaters hooked up and take the risk of excessive AC noise.

 

Or...

 

Like I unhooked my grid heaters and not looked back nor had any alternator problems. 

 

Another way I look at it. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has never had an alternator replaced ever in 22 years. Wonder why? No grid heaters. Same alternator, Same make of truck less the Cummins diesel (grid heaters).

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Let's put it this way.

 

Either change alternators every 4-9 months with the grid heaters hooked up and take the risk of excessive AC noise.

 

Or...

 

Like I unhooked my grid heaters and not looked back nor had any alternator problems. 

 

Another way I look at it. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has never had an alternator replaced ever in 22 years. Wonder why? No grid heaters. Same alternator, Same make of truck less the Cummins diesel (grid heaters).

Thanks I will be disconnecting mine after all is repaired.

Might have to hook up for the winter time when deep cold sets in but only to start in the morning. After the truck is warmed it won't need grid heaters afterwards. 

 

I do want to resolve this issue and figure out exactly causing these issues and not just educated guessing...

Edited April 1, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man