It it possible to wire in a 9007 pigtail to the oem wiring to obtain brighter light? i believe theyre is somewhere in the range of an added 700 lumens when swapping from 9004 to 9007. Seems it could be a worthwhile upgrade for those of us that cant afford a projector retrofit or fancy leds. 

Do you have one of the wiring harnesses with relays or just factory wiring?

41 minutes ago, 98whitelightnin said:

Do you have one of the wiring harnesses with relays or just factory wiring?

Every thing is factory.  I just removed the 9004 blubs and installed the 9104 blubs.  This is the easiest and most inexpensive up grade you can do.

On 1/31/2019 at 10:54 AM, IBMobile said:

Every thing is factory.  I just removed the 9004 blubs and installed the 9104 blubs.  This is the easiest and most inexpensive up grade you can do.

 

Can I ask what the difference is between the 9004 and the 9104?

 

I actually thought it was a typo at first.

Typically 9004 bulbs are 55/60w and 9104 are 80/100w bulbs. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Flosser-9104-12V-100-80-Watt-Off-Road-Rally-Ultra-Bright-9004-Halogen-Bulbs-/172493595102

 

Edited February 9, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Typically 9004 bulbs are 55/60w

 

I believe a standard 9004 bulb is 45/65 watts.  I never thought that a non-relayed headlight circuit accompanied with long runs of undersized wiring and topped off with a super powerful 45 watt low beam bulb was a very bright idea to light up the road.

 

- John

Edited February 9, 20196 yr by Tractorman

Stock 9004 should be 55/60 watts.

From:  Candlepower.com  

Technical bulletin:  9004 & 9007 blubs  

"The 9004 (HB1) bulb, introduced in 1983, was the first halogen replaceable headlight bulb available for use in North America. It uses 12 Volts, has a 45 Watt low beam filament producing 700 lumens, and a 65 Watt high beam filament producing 1200 lumens. These filaments are transverse—if you hold the bulb upright, they run across the bulb from side to side. "

 

What's 5 watts up or down the blub still sucks.

10 hours ago, IBMobile said:

What's 5 watts up or down the blub still sucks.

 

Forget the rest... 

I've always used the 50% brighter bulbs in my truck. But now I wonder how those work.

 

It is ironic that my truck I can feel my headlight switch get warm, although I think that's because I have the instrument panel lights so dim, so it's easier to see at night. If I turn the brightness up in the daytime the Seth doesn't get so hot.

3 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

can feel my headlight switch get warm, although I think that's because I have the instrument panel lights so dim, so it's easier to see at night. If I turn the brightness up in the daytime the Seth doesn't get so hot.

 

Change all your panel light out to LEDs. This will get rid of the heat. As you cut the voltage making it dimmer you're increasing the amperage and the heat begins. Wattage load never changed. 

I put those 80/100's in mine and can tell a small difference. Im gonna run a relay setup eventually and hope to see a little brighter lights.

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Change all your panel light out to LEDs. This will get rid of the heat. As you cut the voltage making it dimmer you're increasing the amperage and the heat begins. Wattage load never changed. 

 

Ah so is that because of the draw thought the switch? I noticed this started after installing my gauges.

17 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

Ah so is that because of the draw thought the switch?

 

Just increase the brightness and the heat goes away. 

 

Permanent solution is to change all the lights to LED's.