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 I got a 2.3 vtec that I drive every day for work 160 ml a day and every Friday I add almost a quart of oil maybe 800ml. I read that a lot of people have this issue where vtecs consume oil. It did it when I first bought it few years ago, but I was consuming around 600ml, so it went up slightly. It now has 227k on the clock. I checked compression and all cylinders are the same, I did not do leak down test yet. I believe po ran it low on oil and scuffed-up cylinder number one, or it has broken rings on number one. I took all spark plugs out and 2,3,4 look good and clean and looks good inside the cylinder, 1 is ugly and cylinder is wet, it seems to be oil residue. So I believe that's where all my oil is going. Unless I have a stuck open injector. It doesn't smoke on If it doesn't smoke on startups no matter how long it sits, so I believe valves and seals are good. 

Another issue developed recently check engine light came on for EGR valve and a lot of times when I come to a stop it wants to stall and die and sometimes it does stall die. Will EGR valve cause that problem, I feel like it's more related to idle air control or simply when the engine is hot cylinder 1 is barely working and I'm running on 3 cylinders and that's why it's trying to die. When it's almost dying I can hear what sounds like a vacuum leak, checked all the hoses and connectors and seems to be good, of course I could have missed a connection someplace I will keep looking. 

What you guys thinking, @Mopar1973Man @IBMobile and anyone else wants to share their experiences 

This is cylinder one that's probably the culprit 

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  • A leak down test is the tell all.  If you have a broken ring or bad valve it will show up here.  That looks like oil deposit fouling on that plug.   A stuck open EGR will cause a roug

  • Pre 1989 no OBD systems. 1989-1995 OBD1 with check engine light era where each car manufacture had their own codes and code retravel system.  1996-present OBDII codes P0100-P0999 and retriev

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    EGR valve is nothing more than a vacuum leak to exhaust stream. I would do a test on compression and see if the cylinder has damage. Then do a vacuum test to see if there is valve damage. You might pu

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11 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

What's weird is, I blocked it off on my 88 GT Mustang I had about 15 years ago and it never did set code or light. I think that was about the only vehicle I blocked it off on. 

Did vehicles set codes back in 88?

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Just now, dripley said:

Did vehicles set codes back in 88?

I think so. It could be because I separated the base and the sensor on the EGR valve, left the valve plugged in so if commanded to move it could still move freely and filled the hole in the base with J-B Weld and bolted it back on.

As far as I know emissions codes came in 96 with the arrival of OBD2. In my state (of confusion) pre 1996 vehicles are only subject to a visual emissions inspection because OBD1 did not read the emission codes. Cali vehicles are most likely different.

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

As far as I know emissions codes came in 96 with the arrival of OBD2. In my state (of confusion) pre 1996 vehicles are only subject to a visual emissions inspection because OBD1 did not read the emission codes. Cali vehicles are most likely different.

Thats what I was thinking. Had this truck for 8 years before I knew wwhat an error code was. Funny how a blown ECM will educate you.

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Pre 1989 no OBD systems.

1989-1995 OBD1 with check engine light era where each car manufacture had their own codes and code retravel system. 

1996-present OBDII codes P0100-P0999 and retrieval standardized throughout  industry.   OBDII codesP1000 and up are more likely to be manufacture specific.  

My son has a 95 accord that used oil. It was doing similar to yours. He didn't realize it was leaking rather than burning because of the undercarriage pans were holding most of the oil. The leak was on the back side of the engine from the oil pressure sensor. Once that was replaced with a new sensor the oil usage dropped to a manageable quart every 2500 miles.

Just something to check. 

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32 minutes ago, madsen said:

My son has a 95 accord that used oil. It was doing similar to yours. He didn't realize it was leaking rather than burning because of the undercarriage pans were holding most of the oil. The leak was on the back side of the engine from the oil pressure sensor. Once that was replaced with a new sensor the oil usage dropped to a manageable quart every 2500 miles.

Just something to check. 

I had few leaks when I first got it. One from crankshaft seal, one of the balancing shaft seals, and the distributor o-ring and seal, I believe the sensor was a little wet too. I now have zero drips to the ground. I'm pretty convinced I have scored cylinder wall or bad rings on cylinder 1. 

Thanks for your input, them oil sensors are known to leak on a lot of different vehicles, in fact when they start to lick on some of our models of Cummins, they create a short in 5 volt circuit and cause headaches, hard to trace if you don't know what you're looking for.

16 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Pre 1989 no OBD systems.

1989-1995 OBD1 with check engine light era where each car manufacture had their own codes and code retravel system. 

1996-present OBDII codes P0100-P0999 and retrieval standardized throughout  industry.   OBDII codesP1000 and up are more likely to be manufacture specific.  

Makes sense. I remember when the GM techs had ALDL keys they carried with them that plugged into an interface under the dash. The odometer would then flash in a sequence that was read similar to morse code.

17 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Pre 1989 no OBD systems.

1989-1995 OBD1 with check engine light era where each car manufacture had their own codes and code retravel system. 

1996-present OBDII codes P0100-P0999 and retrieval standardized throughout  industry.   OBDII codesP1000 and up are more likely to be manufacture specific.  

No wonder I never knew about codes.  Never had anything newer than an 84 until 1998 when I bought my first 3/4 ton. It was a 96 with a V10. It only gave me one problem in 2001. It was spitting and sputtering with oil running out of the tail pipe. Did not need a code for that. I am still sitting in its replacement.

Edited by dripley

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54 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

@Dieselfuture have you tried Overhaul In A Can?

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No I have not, not sure if it will help or ruin something else. Maybe I'll try it before changing oil next time. I think you suppose to run it for a bit and drain it out.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.