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Injection pump failed?

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Last night grabbing mail across the road before going up the drive the truck revved and died.  No cel rough running or any weird issues besides an extra second or two of crank time while attempting to start over the last week.  At this point it is scheduled to be towed to my mechanic on Friday he can't get to it till next week Wednesday, and I need wheels and the pump will have to be ordered.  So how do I diagnose a failed injection pump to help speed things along and order a new one if needs be?  Currently I'm in a no start situation with no cel's.

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  • dripley
    dripley

    https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1   Here is some very good info on the VP and issues. 

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Gotta ask a dumb question. Did you run out of fuel? I've seen fuel gauges lie and just run out of fuel. Drop about 10 gallons of fuel in and try repriming the injection pump.   Double check

  • Stanley
    Stanley

    1/4 tank issue.....  Pretty common actually, add plenty of fuel re prime as stated, try again. 21 psi is pretty high for start up on vp44's. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but it should be alot

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  • Owner

Excessive idle time cold. Tar up the valve stems and WHAM! Piston bent the valve. 

 

Symptom/Condition:

Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time.

 

 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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    • Author
    2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

    Excessive idle time cold. Tar up the valve stems and WHAM! Piston bent the valve. 

     

    Symptom/Condition:

    Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time.

     

     

     

    I think Mike hit the nail on the head I always warn up my truck in winter and sometimes I would use high idle other times I would no.  Hearing that from Mike and knowing from hearing her crank over only one valve is bad so likely just tarred up and tore herself apart.

    • Owner
    30 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

    I always warn up my truck in winter

     

    I try to start and roll as quickly as possible. Warm up is actually bad to leave them to sit and idle excessively in the cold. Cold air intake makes this worse too. Then there is the grid heaters attempting to keep the air warm and adding ton of electrical load on the alternator which is a great way to fry the diodes. 

    @WiscoRedkneck @Mopar1973Man here is a video of my truck this morning.

     

    https://youtu.be/xpLHGUi5cv8

    No throttle (dead pedal), no power, and white smoke. The RPMS just stop, even with the go pedal matted. I have a stored code of P0216. Eventually after a few minutes it will clear up and run right, but it happens more than I would like. I am assuming with these symptoms my injection pump will eventually die all together. I have no CELs, but maybe your VP44 gave up the ghost with no warning.

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