I'm thinking of installing the Isspro R17033 RV2 fuel pressure gauge (electric) and the bullet mount.  I know they offer a mechanical gauge and perhaps its more accurate, but I like the idea of an easy install and no chance of fuel coming in the cab.  I'm also looking at the Vulcan big line filter to vp44 kit.  I have read Mopar1973Man's article for this install and look to do just the same, however I have few questions for those already having done this mod before:

 

Is there a need for 1/2" over 3/8" big line kit?  Depending on the condition of the stock in-tank pump, an Air Dog or Fass would be in the future with its big line kit.

 

Is there a need to have both a shut off valve and snubber?

 

Is the distance from the big line kit to the fender too short to eliminate fuel hammer?

 

Is it just as easy and more durable to use fuel hose over air brake line to connect to the sender unit?  (Thinking back to the days of my youth using copper over plastic line for oil pressure gauge installs.)

 

This is the big one:

 

How did you wire this gauge to the factory wiring harness without a bunch of splices or a spider web of connections?  I'd like to have the lighting dim with the dash if possible, but won't fuss if that's a bunch of aggravation for not much gain.

 

I'd like to keep it a clean (near factory looking) install and probably won't add anything later unless I go with a Westach egt/boost combo gauge (stock ETH so really no hurry).

 

Thanks for any ideas and help!!

I was joking about the diaphram, but I had an aging VP that would not start unless power was cut to it when cranking. If it works for you keep doing it if it makes you feel better.

The new 027 Revision pumps no longer have a diaphragm in the pump just a steel disc now.  

I know the grease gun hose is looked upon as being a poor choice, but a 2' long hose full of air, with the orifice "snubber" has protected my EV2 for over 20k miles. Most homes deal with real water hammer with copper pipe stubs - not much flex in that, either.

On 8/25/2019 at 8:34 PM, LorenS said:

Most homes deal with real water hammer with copper pipe stubs - not much flex in that, either.

 

But its got a air pocket. Then the pressure gauge isn't hooked up to the stub. 

 

I've can show water hammer...

 

Not to mention every time I see grease gun hose the sensor is just flopping around the engine bay or zip tied to a power steering hose. 

Edited August 27, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man

My grease hose has an air pocket.

That is only temporary. With the fast action of the constant pulses it will pull the air pocket out in time. Even my air brake line becomes solid fuel over time. The only protect after that is distance. The pulses tend weaken with distance. So your grease gun hose is what like 16 inches to 24 inches compared to 5 feet of air brake line which also seem to be the average line length for mechanical gauges. 

@Mopar1973Man on the bracket Eric made you and the bracket for @mr.obvious, are the threads for both the FP and boost sensors the same?  I’m looking to make a similar bracket for both and just leave the boost empty minus the fitting for now.  I’m using Isspro EV2 for FP and will use them for the boost when the day comes.  Just want to make sure the threads are the same before welding it.

 

Thanks

We used a brass 1/8 NPT coupler. Then just soldered the brass fitting to the steel angle iron. Just test fit you PTC fitting and the sensor in the fitting. If all works you good to go.

 

Mine was built with steel fittings and Eric @ Vulcan Performance tack welded mine in place. I do like @mr.obvious choice of placement of his bracket really good spot. 

I like it as well.  I have some cuts of bed frame just like his to make the bracket.  My prob is I don’t have the boost gauge or sender unit yet.  I’m guessing the fittings were the same for the bracket you made for his Isspro gauges?  I’m shooting from the hip making the bracket with the “intensions” of doing boost later.  Its a bone stock ETH so may be a waste of time other than curiosity.  But I want to make sure the simulated bulkhead (brass fittings, or steel like your Vulcan made) fittings are the same before I weld everything up.  Then again, I guess the steel could rust with no sender or hose hooked up, may just be worth making a single mount for now.

10 minutes ago, MyOle2500 said:

 Its a bone stock ETH so may be a waste of time other than curiosity.

 

It's never a waste of time. These trucks should of came with...

• Pyrometer (0 to 1,600*F)
• Boost gauge (0 to 35 PSI)
• Fuel Pressure (0 to 30 PSI)
• Transmission Temp (100 to 280*F) - Even on manuals.

 

Boost gauge would let you know if there is boost issues, wastegate malfunctions, Overboost, Boost leaks, etc. Always good to monitor boost pressure. I tend to like brass being its self sealing and doesn't require thread sealant. 

Just wanted to give an update,

 

The big line kit and gauge went in, everything is working great and no leaks!!  The gauge looks and works great, and I know the 1/2” big line kit has to be flowing more fuel (easier anyway).

 

Now the down side......

 

The dealer installed in-tank pump is delivering 8 psi at idle and 6 psi at WOT and 7 psi at cruise RPM.  I kind of expected this but really hoped for 10 psi.  Looks like a FASS is in the future.

 

One question I do have, does the gauge bounce slowly (.5 psi variance, maybe 1 psi tops) when idling and a little at cruise RPM?  I have a snubber and needle valve at roughly 1/8 turn open.  Also, 4.5’ of 1/4” hose (long story) between my needle valve at the T on the big line kit and the sender unit.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks!! 

I personally would suspect the in tank pump.

1 hour ago, MyOle2500 said:

Just wanted to give an update,

 

The big line kit and gauge went in, everything is working great and no leaks!!  The gauge looks and works great, and I know the 1/2” big line kit has to be flowing more fuel (easier anyway).

 

Now the down side......

 

The dealer installed in-tank pump is delivering 8 psi at idle and 6 psi at WOT and 7 psi at cruise RPM.  I kind of expected this but really hoped for 10 psi.  Looks like a FASS is in the future.

 

One question I do have, does the gauge bounce slowly (.5 psi variance, maybe 1 psi tops) when idling and a little at cruise RPM?  I have a snubber and needle valve at roughly 1/8 turn open.  Also, 4.5’ of 1/4” hose (long story) between my needle valve at the T on the big line kit and the sender unit.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks!! 

Yeah that sounds about right.  Mine bounces about the same...no problems.  I would consider a mechanical lift pump before I looked at another electric.  Do your research on both types before purchasing...I did and ended up going with a Fuel Boss mechanical pump with no regrets. 

Never any bounce on my AD. Pressure drop on acceleration but no bounce. Just leary on the intank pump.

10 hours ago, dripley said:

Never any bounce on my AD. Pressure drop on acceleration but no bounce. 

 

Same here. Pretty steady typically. 

On 8/14/2019 at 8:11 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

PTC fittings. Push To Connect fittings.

 

No ferrels, no compression nut. PTC are seal sealing and work very well for low pressure applications. 

 

 

Reusable. If there is any tubing problems you can just simply push the collar back to release the tubing. Not you can trim off the bad part or just replace. Push the tubing back in and it self seals and locks.

My NAPA doesn't have this but I found this.  Is it the same?  https://trimantec.com/products/airtac-npc-push-to-connect-fitting-male-connector-npc1-4-3-8?variant=31806281416757&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&msclkid=9f082587d71918f23d597ab93b78b62a

Used the same fitting through out my gauges. Boost and fuel pressure.

Thanks