I polished the stock headlight lenses when i first got the truck. That helped some but the headlights still sucked. I added some led cube fog lights from Amazon and aimed them low and angled out. This really helped with night driving by lighting up the side of the road. I made sure they wouldn't blind oncoming traffic and haven't had anyone flash me. Last week i got some Hella 100/80 watt bulbs and wired up relays. This completely changed visibility at night. Before i NEEDED the leds at night. Now i can barely tell if they are on or off. Haven't had anyone flash me yet but only driven it 10 times going to work. Before anyone tells me how much better the Morimoto upgrade is or swap to sport lenses they're not in the budget now. I spent $20 on this upgrade, the cost of the bulbs and bulb sockets. I have relays, bases, wire, etc in the garage so i didn't have to buy anything like that but if i did it probably would have been another $30 or so. The reason for this post: If you're broke and desperate for improved light its cheap and easy to do and it did improve my visibility. I put off doing it because i kept reading it wasn't worth the effort. If anyone needs info on wiring the relays and sockets let me know. 

I was looking into the sport swap myself but now it can wait. I can finally see at night now so i can't see spending the cash for it. If something happens to my headlights i might do it then. 

Came up with this. Late model Taurus. Passenger side. Uses 9012LL bulb. Any ideas on how to use it for something?

Make one heck of a backup light.

Doing alittle reading sport has a low beam 9007 9004 high

 

The link I posted comes with a main beam. 9007.

They might be junk bulbs swap my 9004s in and be plug n play

That's odd. 9004 and 9007 are both dual filament bulbs, and are typically used in single bulb configurations. Do both bulbs in the sport use low and high? That would make sense. Good to know.

I dunno I think it needs relays to light all elimants on bright.

 

Or my research is off

1 bulb lights high and low other bulb lights high only in factory sport wiring if I'm not mistaken. Don't remember which bulb does what for sure but i THINK 9007 only lights in high.

I was wrong. 9004 only lights in high. See post below.

Edited September 22, 20195 yr by Gregturley
Correction

So low is always burning 2 eliments?

Have to check but think 9007 are outer bulbs light up low and high. 

9004 are inner bulbs and do not light in low only high so 9007 and 9004 light in high.

Low-9007- outer bulb- low element lit

High-9007 and 9004-inner and outer bulbs- both high elements lit

9004-inner bulb-low element not used

It has been a while since i worked on a sport set up. I'll try to find a wiring diagram later to double check.

Edited September 22, 20195 yr by Gregturley
Correction and pics

I made a 2 relay set up, Both lo's and hi's worked. Just the pattern sucked. You'll find the aux beam does nothing really but make a narrow vertical column of light. The main lights the 9007 do the most work. Even in factory set up for just hi beams on the aux light is still poor. 

 

Basically build your relay for the drivers side then just across and and feed the passenger side.

I'm sure they work better th han my stock set up

On 9/22/2019 at 9:37 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

I made a 2 relay set up, Both lo's and hi's worked. Just the pattern sucked. You'll find the aux beam does nothing really but make a narrow vertical column of light. The main lights the 9007 do the most work. Even in factory set up for just hi beams on the aux light is still poor. 

 

Basically build your relay for the drivers side then just across and and feed the passenger side.

This works BUT if something happens to DS lens/bulbs/wiring/fuse whatever you will lose both side headlamps. Better to wire each side independent in my opinion. For my initial tests i only did 2 relays. When i decided to keep the relay setup i cut out the cross over wiring and made another relay pigtail for the other side. 4 relays each side independent. Get stuck in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the night, with your wife and 3 kids in your POS and no headlamps and you will realize how important redundancy is. I can fix ANYTHING on a car, but doing it on the side of a 70mph zone with everything i care about in it aint happening again if i can prevent it.

10 hours ago, Gregturley said:

This works BUT if something happens to DS lens/bulbs/wiring/fuse whatever you will lose both side headlamps. Better to wire each side independent in my opinion.

 

Can't wired separate. There is only one bulb filament. The hi / lo is control by a shutter. There is a ballast for each side but the shutter is controlled by one relay. The power is only supplied by one one fuse. The kit comes all loomed out. This is why I have the driving lights. Still a fallback lighting system as well.

 

10 hours ago, Gregturley said:

Get stuck in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the night, with your wife and 3 kids in your POS and no headlamps and you will realize how important redundancy is.

 

Which has NEVER happened. 394k miles and ticking never had a massive lighting failure to this day. Again the driving light are separated from the headlights and there is my redundancy in my lighting. I've not even had a ballast fail yet or a bulb to burn out. Very low current draw. only 35w per light. The driving lights are 18w per light but are ~1,000 lumens brighter than the HID's.  PIAA LED are a 6k bulb at about 4,000 lumens. The Morimoto HIDs are 5k bulb and about 3,000 lumens. Standard halogen bulb is 700 and 1,200 lumen (45w / 60w). 

 

Oh... I'm no dummy... I've got a pack of fuses in the truck. Mini's and standard size.

 

Now that is lighting. Lo beams, driving light plus the switchback bulbs.  

Edited September 28, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man