Long Time lurker on this site, and a big thank you- I have learned a whole lot. I am sure you get a lot of these Please Help posts, but here goes (at least I did pay for like 5 quad tunes- haha)

 

I have a 01 Laramie 2500 longbed 4x4. 2" leveled on 35"s- 3.54 dana 70/60- I know, tall gearing. 215k on the odo. ATS stage 2 built 47re trans. FASS 95, BD gauge pillar with trans, boost, egt (rear of exhaust manifold  tapped)

 

I also recently have gotten into some performance mods- 150 dap vco's, BW s362sxe 68cm housing, 4" turbo back exhaust, also ARP headstuds before any of the previous. Also installed the Quadzilla Adrenaline with v2 and wifi iquad

 

I am new to tuning, and honestly a wannabe mechanic at best (physician in my other life). But this truck I absolutely love (was my fathers before he passed away) and I am pretty attached to it. 

 

The truck has been awesome, has no blow by, no boost leaks (checked with 15psi on the turbo endcap). No leaks, and all cylinders within compression spec

 

Recently acquired a pretty heavy toy hauler (11K) and I live in CO and haul it around here (so a decent amount of mt passes)- towing this thing safely around is my main goal of tuning/ that and efficiency and lack of heavy smoke

 

Here is my issue- being new to quadzilla and tuning in general- (can't even figure out how to download base tune). But I was able to purchase and download tunes off this site and that this is what I have been working off. Running me's high altitude tow tune, and moparman's efficiency tune. I am building boost much better than my hy35 and spooling at about the same rpm (13-1400) but I am really only getting to 25 or so by 2200rpm when I floor it to get on the freeway- get out of it when I get to about 70mph. The other problem though is that my EGT's are pretty high I think. I am 8-1000 just running around town with any pedal, and can easily get to 1200 with much more pedal. When getting on the freeway- with hard acceleration they shoot to 1250-1350 until the boost brings them back down 1150 or so. when cruising on hwy at 70 in OD boost is like 1-2 and egts 8-900 on flats. This is all on levels 2 or 3. I have some smoke off acceleration with me's tune, and just a tiny puff with the effieciency tune. 

 

I know my gearing ratio is not helping, and I plan to maybe swap to 4.10's, I just got a new set of Toyo Mt's and don't really want to change tire size- it looks great and "right" on the truck. 

My questions are how I can potentially change a few parameters on the adrenaline to help out with boost and or getting egts down. Or if you think I need to look at something else on the truck. Like I stated, I have done multiple boost leak tests and actually had to tighten a couple intercooler boots, and even had to re-gasket the grid heater to intake horn as it was leaking a bit as well. But now I have no leaks. I have not towed the toy hauler yet since these mods- but compared to stock (where I needed more hp to get up steep grades faster than 15-20mph) and was also running into egt issues. Oh and overheated once due to stuck thermostat- tstat has been changed out with cummins, have also flushed radiator, took out and cleaned, relocated breather tube, and replaced clutch fan. 

 

Feel free to pm or post to this diatribe, but just looking for some guidance from dudes much more knowledgeable than myself. Much appreciation

 

 

how's the wastegate on the turbo?  Might hold it closed on a run and seeing how it does.    I am leaning towards lack of air rather than tuning issues.  

Edited July 21, 20204 yr by Me78569

Boost elbow screwed all the way in, BHAF with pretty new Donaldson Filter with pre filter.

 

I did notice that the waste gate actuator arm is like a mm away from the oil drain when I installed- but I talked to PDD who I bought the turbo/2nd gen kit from and they said that was normal, it was a pain to install the oil drain though. I don't think but am not positive it is limiting actuator arm movement. But again- I don't understand the workings 100%

My Economy tune is based on a 3.55 gears on 30 inch tires which produces a final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1. Now over sized tires on 3.55 gears are going to shove that final ratio lower in number making it difficult to accelerate without smoke, my tunes can have high timing because of the 7 x 0.010 injectors are popped at 320 bar and the injectors are firing late, so advancement makes up for it. Then the final ratio being a high ratio number I don't need a lot of retarding to launch out so I can keep more advanced timing. 

 

I've got to ask what size tires are you running @ahlgringo ?

 

You might take my economy tune and walk the timing back -1 degree across the board for larger tires and lower ratio. Optimally for these trucks you should be 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after the tires. Just in my setup I'm in 4th by 25 MPH and in 5th by 45 MPH. 

 

• 66 MPH is prefect 2,000 RPM and does great on two lane highways. Quick to build power and for passing. Already in the torque curve!
• 82 MPH is a perfect 2,500 RPM even twisting the engine this fast I still reach 20 to 21 MPG on the interstates.

 

My tow tune got me down to Mohave Valley, AZ with a high mark of 14.7 MPG. Then over all average of 12.6 MPG towing a 31 foot RV scaled out at 17.300 GCW.

 

Edited July 21, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

Yeah, I know I am currently not optimally geared- 3.54 on 35"s so final ratio of like 3.2something. I am seriously considering re-gearing to 4.10 and probably will in the next couple of weeks but wanted to try and optimize I the meantime as it is an expensive swap. I will try and walk back the timing 1 degree. I have the same injectors popped at 320bar. 

It looks like with 4.10's I would be much closer to stock gearing- again just trying to figure out if this would help (fix)  egt and boost issues as well, or if there is something else I should also be looking at. 

Just a heads up the last one that I followed on changing gear up here in McCall ID was close to $4,000 for front and rear gears to be changed to 4.10.

 

I have a quote from a shop in town, pretty reputable and good reviews for 2400 front and rear. not cheap by any means. BTW- McCall is truly God's country, I went to the U of I and have a bunch of buddies from McCall. I get up there every few years during Elk season. Wife is from CDA so we get up there quite a bit as well.

Good deal on the gear change!

 

If your up this way your more than welcome to stop in and chat too. 

https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

I'd rig something up to force the wastegate to stay closed and try a run.

Can I test the waste gate? compressed air up to the bell housing hose barb?

yea.

15 minutes ago, ahlgringo said:

Can I test the waste gate? compressed air up to the bell housing hose barb?

Yes you could... That will test to see if it actually is opening. What @Me78569 is looking at is it possibly that the spring is weak and the wastegate is blowing open dumping your driver pressure. A weak wastegate would be easy to blow open with enough pressure force on the gate. There is a forum post where people ditched the wastegate motor and used spring to hold tension on the gate so once it gets up to a set pressure just the drive pressure can force it open. 

 

What @Me78569 wants is for you to tied the gate shut and see if you can build more boost ot clear up smoke and EGT's.

Edited July 21, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

hmmm,

 

Well, thanks guys. I zip tied my waste gate hose kinked shut, did a run- and popped up to like 39-40psi boost running a short pedal down wot to 70mph. Correct me if I am wrong- but doesn't that mean my waste gate is screwed up? I have the boost elbow all the way screwed in. I am going to try and actuate the waste gate with my air compressor and see what psi it is opening. The turbo is brand new- should I be speaking with the company I bought from? I am fine running it with the waste gate tied off, but.... shouldn't have to right?

 

My egts are a little lower, but still running 8-1000 on the freeway 60-75mph at like 13-1400 rpm (1000 when I have to get up any gradual small hill). I am thinking this is more of a gearing issue? as stated I am on 35"s with the 3.54 gearing. 

your wastegate is blowing open too soon.     if you already have the bleed screw in all the way then I would talk to however you got hte turbo from.   

 

you can pressuize the wastegate, but you need exhaust pressure for it to fight against.  

 

still a little high for 35's and 3.55's   

1 hour ago, ahlgringo said:

My egts are a little lower, but still running 8-1000 on the freeway 60-75mph at like 13-1400 rpm (1000 when I have to get up any gradual small hill). I am thinking this is more of a gearing issue? as stated I am on 35"s with the 3.54 gearing. 

 

Yup... Final ratio is too low. Take a peek at what I've got with 30" tires and 3.55 axle gears. Much lower EGT's. Lower Engine loads (using way less fuel). Even though I'm twisting 2,500 RPMs. I'll have to find it but I posted several runs on the I84 running 80-82  MPH and getting 20 MPG almost to 21 MPG.

 

 

 

Thank you guys. I am going to proceed with the regearing. I have heard a couple of +/- opinions on aftermarket exhaust manifolds to help with EGT's, mine is not cracked and not leaking, so have not swapped it- do you think it is worthwhile?.  One other quick question- on the quad display screen, I get that yellow turbo warning as well (as is your above pic) how do you get that off and what sensor/alert is tripping it? Currently I don't have the egt probe from quad installed- because I have another one to my a-pillar, but have everything else hooked up. 

6 minutes ago, ahlgringo said:

have heard a couple of +/- opinions on aftermarket exhaust manifolds to help with EGT's, mine is not cracked and not leaking, so have not swapped it- do you think it is worthwhile?

Exhaust manifold isn't going to change it much. The only thing that really is affecting exhaust flow is the turbine housing and how bir or small the housing is. 

 

8 minutes ago, ahlgringo said:

One other quick question- on the quad display screen, I get that yellow turbo warning as well (as is your above pic) how do you get that off and what sensor/alert is tripping it?

That is the turbo cooldown timer. Showing its active.

 

9 minutes ago, ahlgringo said:

Currently I don't have the egt probe from quad installed- because I have another one to my a-pillar, but have everything else hooked up. 

Just drill a second port in. I stacked the EGT's on the 4, 5, 6 runner.

I have 33 " tyres and 3.55. I tend to lockout od  a lot as it's perfect for our 30mph limit and hold lockup, this  runs nicely up to our next limit at 50, over 50 I just hit the od button, very low egts and rpm just right, lockup switch is a good mod to achieve this.

 

Sounds good, I tapped a second hole in my exhaust manifold today and so now all hooked up minus the optional fuel pressure gauge (have a manual gauge on the pillar). 

 

 

To Wil440- thanks, yeah, that is how I have been driving- locking out od on anything but flats or downhills. I can tell its just not the right gearing though and I know I am lugging at lower speeds. 

6 hours ago, ahlgringo said:

Sounds good, I tapped a second hole in my exhaust manifold today and so now all hooked up minus the optional fuel pressure gauge (have a manual gauge on the pillar). 

 

 

To Wil440- thanks, yeah, that is how I have been driving- locking out od on anything but flats or downhills. I can tell its just not the right gearing though and I know I am lugging at lower speeds. 

I'm on a slightly smaller tyre so that just must do it for my truck, stock injectors as far as I know though. Truck will go right down to sub 25mph and accelerate smoothly not as I pedal it at all as still on the made of chocolate transmission, one more thing on the list to sort out