So I've had my fuel pressure kit for my quad for about a year and a half. Last week the sender died and all it shows is 100 PSI. 

 

After contacting the company,  the only response I got was essentially 'tough luck'. I really hate to spend another $70 on it, so long story short, has anyone had luck with any other senders? 

All electric sender MUST NOT be install right at the VP44 it will beat the sensor to death every time. You must remote mount and plumb them. The water hammer pulses at about 600 times a second so the distance is added for that to fade out. Like yelling out side you can be heard good at a short range bit a mile and farther away it could be hard to heard some one yelling. The other sensor here in my boost pressure. The reason for this if I need to test any sensor I can place a tee in the line and hook up mechanical gauge and test the sensor for accuracy.

 

 

Mine are located on the fender. There is 6 feet of 1/8" air brake line to the snubber is installed at the tap point. I'm using a sinstered metal snubber. I do have also a cut off valve for safety. 

 

 

This has been working now for over 10 years no issues. Same sensor and never been replaced. 

 

I understand what you are saying, and maybe I'll do something similar when I get mine replaced. As of now, I have it plumbed into the outlet of the fuel filter, which according to the directions should be fine. 

 

Are you using the sender that Quadzilla supplies? While I've been very happy with the Quad, and all the other customer service I've received from them, this experience does not have me excited to buy another sender from them. 

Did you have anything on the line to protect the sender from the VP pulsations? Not sure there is a sender alive that lasts long with no protection. Snubber or needle valve? 

If it is a standard 5V 100 psi unit, this might be worth a try https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Sensor-or-transmitter-100-psi-5V-for-Oil-Fuel-Air-Water/114160901232?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D0df75f4260b24bf688330474eb372f24%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D223214923228%26itm%3D114160901232%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion%26brand%3DAnxingo&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

I used one in the past to replace a $150 Autometer sender and it is still working just fine (looked identical to the original sender and used the same plug connection -- 3 wire: ground, 5V+ and sense).

Between the needle valve, snubber and distance I use to protect the sender (sensor). Sensor itself I would say to check with the gauge company to be sure it calibrated for your gauge. 

Changed the transducer with one I got off Amazon, believe it was made by Autex. Seems to be working fine, although it does show a few psi lower than what I've previously been seeing. 

 

Most interesting though was the sender that I removed. When I removed the wiring it was dripping diesel through the sensor. Appears as though it's had a mechanical failure

  On 9/26/2020 at 4:40 AM, Bojon said:

When I removed the wiring it was dripping diesel through the sensor. Appears as though it's had a mechanical failure

 

Yup... If it mounted right at the VP44 it will beat the seals right out of the sensor. I know this because it took me a few pressure switch and a few sensor before I realized what went wrong. Since now I'm relocated at the fender I've never had another problem with fuel pressure sensors or switches. If remote located anywhere make sure to have at least 5 feet of 1/8 air brake tubing. Never replace it again...

 

  On 9/27/2020 at 9:31 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yup... If it mounted right at the VP44 it will beat the seals right out of the sensor. I know this because it took me a few pressure switch and a few sensor before I realized what went wrong. Since now I'm relocated at the fender I've never had another problem with fuel pressure sensors or switches. If remote located anywhere make sure to have at least 5 feet of 1/8 air brake tubing. Never replace it again...

 I'll take your word for it, probably end up relocating it. 

Just o be clear on my design... 

 

Tap point -> Needle Valve -> Snubber -> 5 foot air Brake line -> Fuel pressure sensor.

 

Tap point is best at the stock filter bottom. This gives a bit of distance from the pulses coming out of the VP44. Also there is typically a air bubble trapped in the lid so the filter is a good suppressor of the pulses. Mine is in between the stock filter and the VP44. Then the needle valve is a bit spendy.  WH6820 from NAPA. The snubber can be bought at ISSPro. Then Air Brake line is fuel and oil resistance and will no get brittle like nylon oil pressure line. I used PTC (push to Connect) fittings for the tubing. This is better than compression ferrules. Again got those at NAPA. 

 

Injection pump makes a lot of pulses. Being every time the rotor fills the pressure drop as the rotor closes and pumps the fuel to the injector then the pressure in the line rises. Then as it opens again it drops to fill the rotor again. Like putting your ear next to a chainsaw muffler running. Now move your ear way from the saw its bear-able. Drop ear protection on (snubber) now move away from the chain saw 5 feet it not as loud isn't it? Distance and a muffling device is what quiets the pulses down with distance allows the pulse to fade.