New annual member here. I'm hoping someone on this site can help figure out what's causing the stall issue.

Without writing a novel, as I have on other forums, I'll be as brief as possible and try to provide as much info to help repliers and to ward off 50million posts that will just skew and clog this thread. In advance, no offense intended and I welcome all well thought thru replies, Thanks.

 

I acquired my truck (wish I could figure out how to create a signature?) in May of 2001 it had 75k on it and bone stock.

July 2001 installed gauges: combo boost/egt, fuel psi and trans temp.

Spring 2003 with 130k trans started slipping, had DTT master rebuild done. Outside of trans build, alignments and tire installations "no one" has wrenched on my truck but me.

Fall 2003 Formula1 (now FDI) Mach 1.6 (85hp) injectors, Edge Comp (VP tapped) and relocate LP to frame. At some point I got it on a chassis dyno and it rolled like 350hp & 790tq.

Fall 2006 Mach 5 (200hp), HTT QD 64/14 turbo, Vulcan Draw Straw, Walbro pusher pump, big line (1/2) kit and spin on filter at frame. Spring Fling 2007 rolled 525hp & 1000tq. 

March 2009 original VP just died. New VP installed back on-line.

Fast forward to Fall 2020 and 260k miles, hazing at idle more than I cared for, sent injectors to F1 for a refresh figured they were pretty old and had in excess of 130k miles or so on them it was time to give the old gal a tune-up.

Immediately after receiving and installing the injectors the truck began stalling when placed in gear (Drive-D or Reverse-R) or if it didn't stall the idle (850) would violently/quickly drop to 500 and then jump back to 850.

 

There's more to the story since Fall 2020, but don't want to create a novel in my first post and don't want to skew fresh thoughts from you all with things done since then.

 

Have at it guys and gals. I so look forward to your replies.

3 hours ago, Turbo Terry said:

So you think 2 cycle oil in #1 might up the btu burn rate a bit   It could I suppose but how much and to what ratio. 5 gallons of #2 to 10 gallons of #1 was about the  right mix for me in the winter.  20 x10 =200 gallons of fuel at 20 miles to the gallon. 4 k per winter   Maybe 3 k  with some idling and warm up so  100 gallons #2 with antigel would take  me thru the winter.   I called big dodge 20 years ago they told me they knew they had a problem in alaska where #2 isn’t reaily available all winter. But offered no suggestions as to a fix

What kind of temps do you see in the winter 

Well not that cold in south central.  We call it the banana belt Anchorage our largest city 300 k  so normal cold in February in 15 -20 f during the day 5-10 at night  some zero some 5-15 below that’s our norm  but other places way colder Alaska is a huge state  coldest I ever seen it in Anchorage was 25 below for two weeks 50 f in the house we wore coats. Coldest I ever worked outside was 55 below.  Very dangerous  electric power lineman 42 years retired and still alive. But it does get much colder here i other parts of the Greatland. Worked outside a lot at 20 blow but not much wind. Truck dieing is not from cold it from low btu fuel and not enough rpms to put it in gear. It dies 

Your temps aren’t much different than ours, You should be ok, with 50/50 mix on your fuel in the winter or even 35% number 1 in the winter is about the norm here, 50/50 in some of the high elevation towns.  Even #2 has very little lubrication, adding tc-w 2 stroke to 1 once a gallon is very beneficial,  anything under -15 f. I usually add some anti gel, hot shot secret or diesel kleen in the white bottle,

 

I have to start a lot of heavy equipment in the sub 0 temps, usually take a generator with me if it has a block heater, if no starting aids on the machine it’s usually go go juice and a battery jumper

Yes I have used 2 cycle oil before in my truck.  Dry fuse el is not good fuel. It needs some lube in it I agree.  I think Mt 85 

My 85 % torque converter has a lot to do with it. 76 f 4 pm way to hot now

So what do you think about cetane.  Seemed to help my park to drive and reverse issues a bit. Maybe that and 2 cycle oil  to keep it lubed up

8 hours ago, Turbo Terry said:

So you think 2 cycle oil in #1 might up the btu burn rate a bit  

Terry, not saying bad advice, or not to try 2 cycle oil. I was told by Thoroughbred Diesel not to use 2 cycle oil only because if the VP fails it voids warranty and, not sure how, but was also told they can tell and have had failed VPs returned under warranty which they denied because. Like I said initially not saying bad, or not to use, just relaying what I was told. Check around 1st. 

I'm sure there's folks that may challenge above, just relaying what I was told. For my 1k and time swapping a VP I'll stick to anti-gel.

My last pump ran 275k on 2 stroke. Its replacement is at about 45k. All on 2 stroke also. Never heard of anyone being denied a warranty over 2 stroke or for that matter all the other plethora of fuel addatives out there.

6 hours ago, dripley said:

Never heard of anyone being denied a warranty over 2 stroke or for that matter all the other plethora of fuel addatives out there.

I've also "never heard" of anyone being denied warranty for using 2 stroke oil, just sharing what I was told by Thoroughbred...

I agree its stupid and maybe, for whatever reason, the guy just wanted to tell a tale? Who knows?

I've used Hot Shotz Secret EDT, Winter Anti-gel, Diesel Extreme (only as directed) and had to use 911 only once about 2 years back. Forgot to put anti-gel in after fill up and truck sat 4 days in less than 20°, started fine, let warm up and 10 minutes later going down the PA Tpk truck just lost power, slowed to like 10mph. Hobbled home, idling rough, put about 1 pint in, ran rough for a minute or two then all of the sudden just started idling normally, off I went. From then on I keep a quart with the truck. Got me out of a jam.