Ok this is my first time posting here so if I'm missing something please let me know.

 

I'm relatively new to the diesel world but have read multiple posts on here as well as other sites about replacing a head gasket. 

 

My first question is do you need to resurface the block in addition to the head when doing a hg replacement on these 24v cummins? Also Is it common for the head to be cracked at 200k

 

This is my dd and I noticed that I am leaking oil right where the head and block meet. I cleaned it up and drove it some more and it definitely looks like it is leaking from the head gasket.

I would need to replace it during a weekend and want to make sure I will not have any surprises that I am not aware of.

I've looked at getting a new head with rings but I don't know what all I would need to do in addition to just a hg replacement.

 

Engine is from a 2002 2500, has S363/68/12 with 7x.010 Injectors and a quadzilla adrenaline.

Ok update on this I just got the head and everything looks good.

I did notice one of the rings feels a little rough where the two ends meet.

Should I be worried about that? I don't want it meeting up my head gasket.

23 minutes ago, Tex_usa said:

 

I did notice one of the rings feels a little rough where the two ends meet.

Not sure what you mean. Could you expand on that or maybe a picture?

I'll try and get a picture tonight sorry I haven't had much time lately. On my head I had them put orings in and most of them are all flush where the two ends of the wire meet up. But there is on that has a small gap and feels a little rough like it wasn't filed flat. I read on another site that the gap should be fine as it is not the sealing factor just extra clamping force.

Ok sorry for the late response, was going to get that picture then my passenger wheel bearing locked up on me in a parking lot and I spent the night fixing it before vacation. I'm back now and am planing on starting the tear down tomorrow. I think the ring should be fine I talked to a few machine shops and they all said it should be fine. There are some freeze plugs that still need to be installed and there is one small one that I cannot figure out where it is located. If any of yall have a diagram for the head freeze plugs let me know.

5 minutes ago, Tex_usa said:

There are some freeze plugs that still need to be installed and there is one small one that I cannot figure out where it is located.

There is lots of tiny freeze plugs in the head at the corners. Rotten freeze plugs are only caused by one thing. Bad coolant and lack of changes. To this day my freeze plugs look new and not even rusty looking inside or out at 432k miles and counting on the 2nd Gen. 

I gotcha. I guess I'll just have to compare once I get the old head out. It's just odd that they would put all the other ones in except one.

Also @Mopar1973Man have you ever had any freeze plugs pop out with pushing 50 psi of boost?

Is the Cummins head gasket still the best/most reliable one to use? Does the updated Cummins head gasket have the same part # as the older one that was known for failing a lot?

 

I know ARP makes great stuff, but I've heard that some people are using XOTIC head studs and have had good luck with them. Has anyone here used the XOTIC head studs and can provide some info about them?

 

My head gasket is just leaking a little bit of coolant from the front passenger side like some others have noticed on their rigs. It's not leaking internally or mixing with the oil, and my pickup doesn't run hotter than 193-195*.

 

I'm going to see if the head bolts are still torqued to specs on those front head bolts, since I bought my pickup in Dec 2020, and haven't looked at the head bolts yet. 

 

 

Edited July 29, 20213 yr by 01_Cummins_4x4

Most likely head curl. If you have stock head bolts the bolts will stretch and mine started coolant at the rear passenger side of the head. Make sure to have the head machined true flat again.

Mine failed in the same place as yours @01_Cummins_4x4. The gasket just rotted away.

I noticed it weeping around 430k miles and drove it another 25k to 30k before the water leaked enough to drip on ground. Thats when changed it. I would have changed it sooner but work kept getting in the way.

Dripley,

 

When you changed your head gasket, did you have any issues with the head - cracks or warpage?

Ok so I'm tearing mine apart right now and I got a few questions, I pulled my injectors and noticed one that looked like it had been beat up on the side. Should I be worried about this? Second here is the picture of the one ring I'm worried about. Is it OK to have that barb on it or will it cause it to wear through the gasket?

 

As for the head studs I'm going to use exotic since I won't be pushing more then 50 psi. I've seen a few builds on YouTube that the guy responded 3 years latter still holding fine.

I'm a subscriber of would you be comfortable letting your significant other drive it with the fixes done, or giving back to a customer. 

 

might be worth a call to the shop to double check on the O-ring, My opinion only.. It's compressing on the metal ring already in the head gasket, shouldn't be an issue. But I'm just a stranger on the interwebs..  

 

The injector I'm more concerned about. That looks like cleaned up rust damage from the pitting left. Granted, the only part you really have to worry about is the darker rings in the center area more so, but some of those pits are awfully close..

On the injector I put these in about a year ago from ducky injection. I don't remember seeing that when doing it. What would cause it to get beat like that? This was the first time doing injectors on a diesel so if it's something I could have caused I'd like to avoid it.

5 hours ago, 01_Cummins_4x4 said:

Dripley,

 

When you changed your head gasket, did you have any issues with the head - cracks or warpage?

They did have to deck it which was not a surprise. I dont remember how much they had to take of but it was minimal. And it was crack free. 

Edited July 30, 20213 yr by dripley

On 7/29/2021 at 11:48 AM, Tex_usa said:

Also @Mopar1973Man have you ever had any freeze plugs pop out with pushing 50 psi of boost?

 

Nope... Never have. Matter of fact the last time I had the head off the freeze plugs are still like new and not even rusted on the inside yet. My current head gasket failed as the composite material let got and got pushed out the front causing a coolant leak.

The theory is that its not boost that blows freeze plugs, its rpm. Sled guys pushing 4k and up either clip two blades on the water pump or go electric because they pop freeze plugs. But there is still debate on that.. 

I normally don't rev to 3k. I'm typically shifting out by about 2,500 to 2,800 RPM. Depends on the tune and where your peek torque curve is. 

 

Freeze plugs blowing out I remember long ago a member on CF had hooked up a pressure gauge to the coolant jacket and the water pump could produce upwards of 40 PSI inside the coolant jacket and start pushing out the freeze plugs. Might look at large mouth thermostats. Like NAPA already upgraded and went away from the small mouth thermostats and upgrade to large mouth to reduce block pressures. Do NOT get the Cummins thermostat it is produced by Mr Gasket/Holley and it an old Robertshaw design and will split in half. 

 

NAPA THM PM1906245

 

Attributes

# of Seals: 1
Brand: NAPA
Flange Diameter: 2.272 in.
Height from Flange: 1.102 in.
Jiggle Pin: Yes
Temperature Range: 190 Deg F
 

 

 

 

NOT A QUALITY PRODUCT! -> Cummins 3946849 - Remember the body will split on these I've replaced now 5 of these thermostats for customers. 

Which results into this...

Sorry for the long delay. I've had one hell of a past week. I finally got everything put back together last week and bled the injector lines then tried to start and it would not start whatsoever. I pulled the injectors and double checked to make sure everything was fitting right then put it all back and still nothing. It has a very little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust but other then that I'm lost. I read alot of other posts saying that injectors almost are always the issue so this weekend I am going to try and swap my old stock injectors in and see if that makes any difference. The other thing I will check when swapping out the injectors is check the cylinders with my bore camera. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't all these trucks run off of is compression and the injectors? So it has to be one of the 2?

Normally you cant bleed the lines without cranking? Might be the way you worded it but you need to loosen lines 1,3, and 4 then crank (in bursts please, no need to fry a starter) until you get fuel out of them. Best is to have a friend keep cranking while you torque them back in after you see fuel. Once one cylinder starts firing, usually the rest arent far behind once tightened.

Did you bleed the fuel lines all the way to the head and 2 or 3 of nuts loose while cranking?