Since this post is mostly about "getting to the next milestone", I'll stick it in this forum.

 

In the not to distant future I plan to change out my A/C condenser and compressor. With the condenser coming out I plan to pull the radiator, intercooler (has bent mounting ears from Bambi damage) etc. and change the front seal while I'm there.

 

What else is best done with everything out of the way?

Perfect time for a cam, but don't know that I need one.

Service the power steering?

Vacuum pump overhaul, even if it doesn't need it yet?

Timing cover gasket?

 

I plan to have the truck down for a while, so I can make the list as long as practical.

Edited July 15, 20213 yr by LorenS
Typo

The vacuum/ps pump seal kit is only $20 so it’s cheap enough if you want to. But I’m a believer of don’t fix what isn’t broke. 
Check the KDP behind the cover, you’ll already have the seal out and rtv can reseal the cover quick enough. 
with the coolant system drained check the freeze plugs, Replaced a few last week for a guy, so I think some of these trucks are getting to that point in life.

Here's another one. With 345k miles do I put on a new damper? I assume it's stock. Being it's 21 years old I have to believe the rubber has seen better days. Or am I being paranoid, (likely due to my days of owning GM 6.5L diesels)?

The damper has 2 tick marks on it that should line up with each other. I never could see them until I got it off the truck. I cant see them in this picture though the old one was starting to loose its rubber. Hate that when that happens.

If you are lucky like me you have the upgraded case. The outer part of th hole for the KDP is smaller than the pin and prevents it from coming out.

 

Me, I would just look at everthing I took off and replace anything thats iffy since you are in that deep. But I am also of the mindset of if it aint broke dont fix it crowd. 

-Check all your hoses

-Check the intercooler boots

-Fan hub bearing or the entire unit

-Check water pump for play, or just replace Since its 2 bolts and you have the coolant drained.

-Fan clutch looked over

-Balancer/damper, look for what @dripley said, alignment between the pieces and make sure the rubber is still there. Technically, if the rubber is cracked it should be replaced.

-Check your fan blades for cracks, your fan at full lock up is spinning faster than the engine itself and I think is capable of 10-11k CFM. That's a lot of stress to be putting on a cracked fan blade.

-Replace the A/C drier as well, especial if you have the system open for any extended amount of time.

-Check for the KDP/updated timing case, I think my truck might have been unlucky with the KDP before I got it. I have the new style case but I am missing my data card.

-Be careful with the front main, it goes on dry, then turn the motor over a couple times by hand to wear in the Teflon before the oil gets to it. Otherwise it will leak. And if you can feel any catches/wear marks on in the crank snout, get a speedy sleeved version. Oh and DO NOT remove the installation cone until after you have tightened down the cover. Easiest way to destroy the seal that way.  

-Other than that, just look for leaks, check wear on things, stuff like that.

 

-A cam isn't really needed unless you are competing or spooling a big turbo (like s465 as a single kind of big) . There are plenty of guys that are making a lot of power on the stock cam. 

-While everything is of and easy to get to, might as well adjust the steering box.

-Vacuum pump is up to you, with 345k on it it wouldn't hurt. I have used the Gould's gear kit and I highly recommend it. Bit expensive but it it comes with tools, an instructional dvd and extras of seals commonly messed up on install just in case. 

-the timing cover is stamped sheet metal bolted to an aluminum case, there is a gasket for the cover but everyone recommends RTV because the sheet metal is usually warped slightly and wont seal very well with the gasket.    

 

 

  

 

    

10 hours ago, LorenS said:

Here's another one. With 345k miles do I put on a new damper? I assume it's stock. Being it's 21 years old I have to believe the rubber has seen better days. Or am I being paranoid, (likely due to my days of owning GM 6.5L diesels)?

Wouldn’t hurt, especially if the rubber is starting to push out of the one you have. Last time I bought a factory one it was cheapest from throughbred diesel.

I got the speedy sleeve version, thanks for the tip on NOT removing the installation cone.

 

I'll certainly look over everything as it comes off.  Things like fan blades I don't feel like I need to order ahead of time, I can replace it after I've reassembled the truck.  I would've regretted not replacing the front seal with everything out of the way, but taking off the fan isn't too tough without removing the front of the truck!  Water pump same story, and it's fairly newish (60-70k miles).  I've looked up behind my damper and it LOOKS okay as far as rubber condition, and it isn't too hard but I don't know what's "right", either.  It's not like an old, cracked tractor tire tough as armadillo hide, that's for sure, more like a new truck tire.  I may order a new stock version.

My thoughts on the cam were more for getting more MPG by reducing overlap, getting back to a grind similar to the 6BT days.  Also, not sure if cam bearings are anything we worry about.  I think I've seen ZERO posts about them on this site.

Thanks everyone for the recommendations!

1 hour ago, LorenS said:

My thoughts on the cam were more for getting more MPG by reducing overlap, getting back to a grind similar to the 6BT days.  Also, not sure if cam bearings are anything we worry about.  I think I've seen ZERO posts about them on this site.

 

Max would be like a 178/208 from Hamilton Cams, or a 186/209 from No Limit Mfg, if you want to pursue that.

 

As for cam bearings, there is only one, possibly two, on a Cummins. all the others ride right on the block. Again, if you aren't competing or spinning to 4-4.5k+ rpm, it's not something to worry about, people have gone a million miles on the factory setup with no issues. The bearing is located closest to the gear. There might be another on the last journal as well but that might be on CR engines.

 

There are zero posts about cam bearings here because most of the population of the site isn't competing or trying to push 700-1000hp. Its not needed for the average injectors/tuner/turbo crowd. I think jlbayes, TFaoro, treed (maybe), and myself were/are some of only ones on here that were either competing or just trying to push the limits on horsepower. I think TFaoro had a build on here or Cummins Forum of his truck. Ended up p-pumped with twins and huge injectors. You can find the engine rebuild in the engine articles section as well.     

2 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Max would be like a 178/208 from Hamilton Cams, or a 186/209 from No Limit Mfg, if you want to pursue that.

My thoughts after reading the TDR pages a few years back was to match the specs of a 1993 6BT, or on the "more power" theme maybe something like the now-discontinued Colt Stage 1 cam.  But this is more dreaming unless someone experienced such as yourself said it's totally worth the money since it's that far torn down.  For instance, for all the folks that knock the free spin hubs but don't have them, I can't remember ever reading from a guy that had them saying it was money poorly spent.

9 hours ago, dripley said:

starting to loose its rubber. Hate that when that happens.

That's an expensive mistake!

3 hours ago, LorenS said:

That's an expensive mistake!

it could affect you for a generation.

15 hours ago, LorenS said:

My thoughts after reading the TDR pages a few years back was to match the specs of a 1993 6BT, or on the "more power" theme maybe something like the now-discontinued Colt Stage 1 cam.  But this is more dreaming unless someone experienced such as yourself said it's totally worth the money since it's that far torn down.  For instance, for all the folks that knock the free spin hubs but don't have them, I can't remember ever reading from a guy that had them saying it was money poorly spent.

 

Didnt realize the VE trucks had a different cam..

 

Colts stage 1 is a 175/206

stage 2 is a 175/210

 

I haven't done a cam swap, but from what I've read over the years, its not worth the money. Boils down to its really expensive for very little horsepower gain. Mostly it open up breathing on the motor and, when you get into the larger cams, moves the power band up. And there will be no thumpa thumpa from a diesel with a cam. The "cammed" idle sound is due in part to vacuum and partly to valve overlap and Lobe Separation Angle (LSA). 

 

I've wanted to do free spins on my truck, but first and foremost is the price. That's a tough nugget to swallow initially. The other thing is how far they stick out. Supposedly the shortest free spin is a Spyntec shorty with Dynatrac Dynalocks. But you are right, I haven't found anyone who said they regret doing the swap. Might have to eventually put them on my truck depending on what I do with my sled pulling and how far I want to go.