Probably not very intersting, but maybe it could help someone out. Hell I like cummins engines, I would probably kill some time looking at pictures of a guy tearing one apart, figure somebody else might. Reason for pulling it... NVG 5600 tranny went out the other day, so I decided to just go ahead and pull and freshen this motor up, dry compression is pretty high so I will probably not be doing anything as far as honing or new rings. Might, might not. Haven't decided yet. I WILL be replacing the rod and main bearings, all gaskets including front and rear main and head, and will be cleaning and painting it up with cummins apex red engine paint, part number #3885910 just for the hell of it, will also be installing a Medium duty truck transmission of some sort!!! Don't know how much time I will have to mess with it, only had 4 hours in it today, so here is the process as of day 1.

as you can see it is a greasy, oily pig sty. Got some corrosion and rust starting, so I will taking care of that.

You would be relying on the FASS to build up enough pressure to do anything. It might run, but I don't think it would run well. The pressure forces fuel into everything and the overflow allows the pump to build pressure. Just as an example, my p-pump basically works by changing the amount of time the fuel has to go into the plungers, thats basically what pushing down on the pedal does. Now when I had my old overflow, I could not get any black smoke, nothing. The pressure topped out around 22psi. It didn't go up or down, so the flow was there. The hole going into the plunger is only so big, so if it were designed to run on 22psi, it would have used a bigger hole. But it needs the pressure to force the fuel into the plunger, so when I got a new overflow and got back to 45psi, I now get smoke and everything is back to normal. I know the VP has an internal vane pump but I think you need pressure too in order to force the right amount into everything.

Genius. Ok so we'll leave that on there then! So now I guess I will need to find a round banjo fitting that goes around the overflow valve x 3/8" male barb so i can slide some 3/8 hose on it. Don't think lowes has it.

I'll do that! Decided to go with some Duplicolor Engine Enamel, in bright red.

Got another question for you all...... I am not real familiar with different metric fitting sizes.... So here is my query. Put forth visually!

If it was me I would leave the banjo head ther but cut the tubing back flare the end slighly (homemade barb) and use a good fuel grade hose. The problem is the fitting in the VP44 is a Overflow valve so that can't be replaced. The overflow valve is a regulator to keep the fuel pressure up like ISX mention...

You are probably already going to look at this...but don't forget the KDP fix..How many miles are on this motor that it needs "freshening up"??And thanks for all the pic's ect, good write up so far...

I would pull a main and rod cap down to inspect before waisting money and time on replacing main and rod bearings. I have seen ill maintained cummins with 700K miles and the mains and rod bearings still look like brand new. These engines are not known to wear out mains and rod bearings. Pull the center main cap as it will be the one to show signs of wear first if any will same with any inline engine. The most important bearing to replace with the pan off and having a manual tranny is the crankshaft thrust bearing.

You are probably already going to look at this...but don't forget the KDP fix.. How many miles are on this motor that it needs "freshening up"?? And thanks for all the pic's ect, good write up so far...

No reason really, other than I already had to pull the tranny and clutch and it only takes a couple hours to pull the motor on one of these. Mainly going to do gaskets, every single one is leaky on this motor....

I would pull a main and rod cap down to inspect before waisting money and time on replacing main and rod bearings. I have seen ill maintained cummins with 700K miles and the mains and rod bearings still look like brand new. These engines are not known to wear out mains and rod bearings. Pull the center main cap as it will be the one to show signs of wear first if any will same with any inline engine. The most important bearing to replace with the pan off and having a manual tranny is the crankshaft thrust bearing.

Cool, thanks for the advice! Yup ol number 6 is thrust, it looked brand new even with all the city driving i have done with this truck. Im waiting on a new camera, I had it setting on the cowl of the pickup this evening, planned on taking some more pictures but I dropped it on the concrete. It was a cheapy though, been wanting a new one anyway so tomorrow I'll go buy a new one and get some more progress. Tuesday my gaskets will be in. Got the pumps off and everything else this evening, oil cooler, alternator. I'll pull the cam tomorrow maybe and get the gear housing off, the gasket behind it is just like a sieve. I can't wait to see if my gear housing has the stepped hole to keep the dowel in the block, if not I will tab it and locktite all the bolts.

for the life of me i cant find a 5 or 6 speed eaton tranny in oklahoma. waiting on gaskets for the motor.......

Have you looked in the Dallas area?

What kind of eaton trans are you going with?

Have you looked in the Dallas area?

Yeah a little bit, I am going to do some more digging today. I might have to go with something like the nv4500 because of availability and my duramax truck is acting up again, which is my only other transportation aside from this dodge. So I think I need to get it back on the road asap.

What kind of eaton trans are you going with?

I talked to a guy at blumenthals for about half an hour on the phone and we came up with probably going with the nv4500.. He says that is a very heavy duty transmission believe it or not compared to the nv5600 that I had... What I don't know is will my driveshaft go into the back of the nv4500 and not have to modified?? Maybe someone with a long wheelbase 2 wheel drive 01 model could do me a huge favor and measure their 2 piece driveshaft and count the splines on the tranny yoke end....? Just would like to bolt the nv4500 up in there if it would be easy and get this thing back on the road... If not, and I have to modify my driveshaft, then I will be going with any 5 or 6 speed eaton I can get my hands on that is synchronized and has an sae 2 bellhousing. NOT picky at all hahaha.

Yeah a little bit, I am going to do some more digging today. I might have to go with something like the nv4500 because of availability and my duramax truck is acting up again, which is my only other transportation aside from this dodge. So I think I need to get it back on the road asap.

I talked to a guy at blumenthals for about half an hour on the phone and we came up with probably going with the nv4500.. He says that is a very heavy duty transmission believe it or not compared to the nv5600 that I had... What I don't know is will my driveshaft go into the back of the nv4500 and not have to modified?? Maybe someone with a long wheelbase 2 wheel drive 01 model could do me a huge favor and measure their 2 piece driveshaft and count the splines on the tranny yoke end....? Just would like to bolt the nv4500 up in there if it would be easy and get this thing back on the road... If not, and I have to modify my driveshaft, then I will be going with any 5 or 6 speed eaton I can get my hands on that is synchronized and has an sae 2 bellhousing. NOT picky at all hahaha.

I think mine would be the same as an 01 since I have dana 80 and 2wd nv4500.. The back one is 33" from yoke weld to yoke weld, and the front is 37" from weld to weld.

Here is stuff on splines:

Dodge 4WD Heavy-Duty NV4500 (1993-98)

This transmission is normally used up to the Cummins Diesel. This transmission is best suited for Dodge 4WD Getrag 5 speed replacements and Toyota Land Cruisers retaining the stock six cylinder engine. We DO NOT advise using this transmission for other applications because you will be required to change the Heavy-Duty front input and rear output shafts of this transmission.

Identification of this transmission can be obtained by using the identification charts on this site or in an Advance Adapters manual. Due to the interchangeability of other New Venture components, we also recommend that you verify the following information. Starting at the front, this Dodge transmission should have an input shaft pilot tip diameter of .750”. The spline of the input is 1-1/4” diameter 10 spline and protrudes approximately 7-1/2” from the face of the transmission. This input shaft can be interchanged with other New Venture input shafts with this 5.61 1st gear ratio. The front bearing retainer index is 5.60”, and has a snout diameter of 1.75” for the release bearing. Most bellhousing adapters for this transmission will require some machining. The shifter stud on the top cover is a male square connection. The rear of this transmission has an aluminum adapter housing which measures 6-1/4” long, and the output shaft is 29 spline.

Dodge 4WD Heavy-Duty NV4500 (1999 & Newer)

These transmissions are identical to the 1993-98 Dodge HD transmission, with the exception of the transmission shift stud. Dodge changed the square style shift handle receiver to a metric 14mm threaded stud.

Dodge 2WD Heavy-Duty NV4500 (1993-98)

These transmissions have the same front bolt pattern and bearing retainer index as the Dodge 4WD Heavy-Duty NV4500 transmission. This transmission should only be used for the Cummins Diesel Getrag replacement. Identification of this transmission can be obtained by using the identification charts on this site or in an Advance Adapters manual. The tailhousing of this transmission is 13” long and uses a slip yoke with 31 splines. If you obtain a 1998 Heavy-Duty transmission, you will be required to change the tailhousing on output shaft to components from an earlier Heavy-Duty Dodge 2WD if you wish to have a working speedometer.

Dodge 2WD Heavy-Duty NV4500 (1999 & Newer)

These transmissions are identical to the 1993-98 Dodge HD transmission with the exception of the transmission shift stud. Dodge changed the square style shift handle receiver to a metric 14mm threaded stud. On these Heavy-Duty 2WD transmissions, New Venture moved the speedometer pickup from the tailhousing back to the rear axle. If you obtain one of these Heavy-Duty transmissions, you will be required to change the tailhousing back to the rear axle. If you obtain one of these Heavy-Duty transmissions, you will be required to change the tailhousing and output shaft to components from an earlier Heavy-Duty Dodge 2WD if you wish to have a working speedometer.

All that was found here http://www.nv4500.com/newsdesk_info.php/newsPath/12/newsdesk_id/32

Just got my duracrack back on the road again. Had to buy 8 more injectors for the thing. Yikes, this happened about 2 months ago!! Unbelievable. Hoping that the warranty on the injectors i had to buy and put in 2 months ago will cover it. Bosch has to inspect them and it could take 6 - 8 week before I will know, and guess what, if it is water or dirt that caused the failure then they aren't paying. I have got to get a better filter setup for this hunk, the stock filter wont stop water.

anyway, it will be a few months before I can recoup my savings account and can continue work on the 01 project.............

Ugh... You need to run that thing hot... Soot/Carbon will burn off at 1,000*F EGT roughly...

Ugh... You need to run that thing hot... Soot/Carbon will burn off at 1,000*F EGT roughly...

Yeah I grandpa around EVERYWHERE I need to get on it once in a while......... I didn't know that, thanks! For some reason when GM designed the fuel filter for this duramax motor, they failed to consider whether or not the fuel filter would stop water before it got to the injectors and pump.

--- Update to the previous post...

Screwed around with the motor a little bit today.........

Your probably going to shoot me for this, but if you take the oil pan off and can get to it, can you get a few shots like putting your finger where the oil cooler squirters that cool the pistons are, then just as close as you can get to it inside the engine showing them, I know that will be hard so might not be able to do it. Then pull one out and show us. I forgot all about it when I pulled mine and I know there are a lot of people curious about where they are. I spent a long time thinking they were just a tube pointing at the bottom of the piston then finally figured out where they really were and what they looked like.

Your probably going to shoot me for this, but if you take the oil pan off and can get to it, can you get a few shots like putting your finger where the oil cooler squirters that cool the pistons are, then just as close as you can get to it inside the engine showing them, I know that will be hard so might not be able to do it. Then pull one out and show us. I forgot all about it when I pulled mine and I know there are a lot of people curious about where they are. I spent a long time thinking they were just a tube pointing at the bottom of the piston then finally figured out where they really were and what they looked like.

No problem. Little hard to get at them with the crank in but I will try to get a good high res. shot of them.