Hey All - new paying member to the forum. Taking a break from the CF for a bit.  Question is all too familiar I suspect. Trying to decide what to do with my 2nd gen to optimize my setup. I'm towing - or should say carrying a new truck camper (~2800 lbs) and lately going through the Washington state mountain passes and ridgelines. Lots of long slopes. My signature shows my mods but mainly I want to see if I'd be better served by increasing my injector size from 50HP to 100 to better pair with the Fleece HX35 63/65 turbo i'm running. I do see a bunch of lag even with the Quad tow tune I'm running that i had the guys @ DAP build for me. I control EGTs on long inclines mainly with my foot and disabling O/D when its start to climb above 1250 F. I also have a new uninstalled ATS Aurora 3000 turbo on hand i've been thinking of installing as its sized for fast spool up with a 58 mm inducer and for towing applications. Thinking that this maybe a better choice of a towing turbo with 100 HP injectors. I don't need any more power than 450 HP which is the power limit my 47re was rebuilt for. Hopefully this is enough to help some folks weigh in.  Cheers!

One more thought on CAI. Application wise, in a cold environment like Alaska, a BHAF sounds like a solid choice. In a warmer climate like Texas, may benefit from a CAI. My S&B can always pull off the top clear cover if in too cold an environment.

1 hour ago, LorenS said:

Yeah, there's a lot of unused real estate in the wheel wells! 

 

Stock wheels with 245/75 R16  47RE  4:10 gears

19 minutes ago, SVALIN said:

One more thought on CAI. Application wise, in a cold environment like Alaska, a BHAF sounds like a solid choice. In a warmer climate like Texas, may benefit from a CAI. My S&B can always pull off the top clear cover if in too cold an environment.

I ran down in Mojave Valley AZ in 110 to 120F. IAT never exceeded 140F. Not even a EGT issue there. Hauled the RV down was kind of stuck the with George Floyd riots. Using a BHAF. Regardless of the cold air intake the intercooler does more work cooling the air than a cold air intake.

 

 

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Stock wheels with 245/75 R16  47RE  4:10 gears

...and 2WD. The top of your tire is above the top of your bumper.  Here's a photo of my truck with POs 285/?/17 tires on it.  The top of the tire is right at or even below the chrome of the bumper.  Look at the body lines, and the top of your rear tire is right in the body "lines".  Mine is well below, even WITH the 285 tires.

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I ran down in Mojave Valley AZ in 110 to 120F. IAT never exceeded 140F. Not even a EGT issue there. Using a BHAF. Regardless of the cold air intake the intercooler does more work cooling the air than a cold air intake.

 

 

For sure, its probably negligible gains, maybe 5-10F*. I guess would have to do side by side to see. I think negligible on the cons too though. Most aftermarket manufactures ‘gains’ data is heavy on the lab tampering. Take k&n hp gains they say about their product..

 

Turbo is probably most important part for cold air my guess? Flow vs psi? My experience is more on the marine side of engines, And boats do a lot too keep the rooms cool, giant intake fans, water cooled turbine housings, oversize aftercooler(/intercooler). The compressor to after-cooler pipe can be over 200F, So the thought of warm air for a diesel is slight odd to me. Depends on conditions.. Sorry if getting off topic.

 

Any thoughts on the 32” tire with 3.73? Depreciating gains with rotational mass? Thanks.

19 minutes ago, LorenS said:

and 2WD.

Right you are.  My pic is to illustrate what 245/75 R16 tires look like on a stock suspension 2WD truck.  @Mopar1973Man picture shows what 245/75R 16 tires look like on a stock suspension 4WD truck.

 I'm running stock size 235/85/16 tires, I do have e a lot of open space in the wheel wells. I've tried to load it down enough to squat it but have been unsuccessful so far. Lol

That much wood in the back of my truck and it's on the helper springs.  Nice log splitter there.

@IBMobile, how is your truck handling the 4.10s with that small of tire? After rereading, you have an auto.. Lower final I think can handle the 4.10s and not be spinning to the moon..

 

4x4 with 4.10s, NV5600, and 35s here.. 

 

 

Does rub on full right lock but thats partly from the control arms and partly due to a piece of the bumper being bent.. 

1 hour ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

how is your truck handling the 4.10s with that small of tire?

My truck is used 98% of the time towing my 8000lb 5th wheel with my boat sometimes behind it.  I've logged over 55 k miles in about 10 years with that size Michelin - LTX A/T2 tire.  The first set rotted off.  I tow 60-62 mph and tack 1800-2000 rpm in overdrive.   When going up hills I'll leave it in O/D unless the exhaust temp goes above 1200°F or the transmission downshifts, then I lock out O/D set the cruise control for 55 mph and enjoy the ride.

I’m running stock gears, auto trans with 265/75/16

 

What’s the upper safe limit for sustained egt on these 5.9s? I’m only on my second towing trip and getting used to when to shift in/out of overdrive. Im towing a 9500. Lb rv. 

 

With O/D off the rpm run 2300 ish at 58- 6ph. I have a 5 in exhaust and noise is fine except at 2300-2500 rpm where cab drone gets out of hand. Unfortunately, that’s my towing cruise speed/rpm. Im usually under 1100 egt in overdrive but not sure really where the safe limit is. There’s plenty of power in OD, just want to watch egts. 

Stay under 1300 for sure for any length of time. If you approach 1200/1250 back off the pedal. That's a good rule of thumb. 

1,100°F is best. 1,200 to 1,250°F is OK but your coolant temp will rise. Still exceptable but gotta keep an eye on coolant temps.

 

Now I can push past on wiretap levels for extra power. But limit to just seconds, on a quick pass.