I have been trying to chase down what would be causing my high egts. At first I bought into my turbo was not the right size, the tuning on quadzilla could off, and bit the bullet after all that and got rpms in the range they “should be” with no luck still. So I watched a video of MM and noticed the engine load was 17-19% while driving 65mph. My engine load at idle in neutral or park is 20-22%. In drive not moving 26%. Driving at 65mph on flat ground little to no wind 25-30% engine load=warmer egt’s. Now if I’m going slightly down hill and my engine load is 23% or lower my egts mimic the egts in the video I watched. I have a few questions. What are some possible causes of high engine? What kind of engine load are others seeing at idle and cruising? (Automatics) How does your engine load reflect your egts? Thank you ahead of time for all your input.

So am I!!! Hahaha I had to save the tune as a file on my iPhone. Once it saved as a file go to your files when you pull it up it should have a box with an arrow towards the top in the one of the upper corners. Select that and if you have quad on your phone it should pop up once you hit the box arrow looking button. Select quadzilla and it should pull it up.

12 hours ago, Caleb Hardy said:

So am I!!! Hahaha I had to save the tune as a file on my iPhone. Once it saved as a file go to your files when you pull it up it should have a box with an arrow towards the top in the one of the upper corners. Select that and if you have quad on your phone it should pop up once you hit the box arrow looking button. Select quadzilla and it should pull it up.

Not giving me an option to just save the file and transfer. No worries.  What part of CA are you in? I’m in the Central Valley,  Visalia. 

Sad to say iPhone and iPad have the most issues with tune files importing or exporting. Androids no issues, import or exporting.

I can email a tune that is already on my iQuad app and download it to another device. I have my tunes on both iPhone and iPad as a backup.  That’s about as tech savvy as I get. Can’t remember the last time I was on a PC. 

No PC should be used technically for tunes. Yeah you can download it but the file is unusable on a PC. Then you should be able to use a ISB cable to transfer to your mobile device. At least for my Android I just tap on the file it starts the import process.

4 hours ago, Threadzy said:

What part of CA are you in? I’m in the Central Valley,  Visalia.

I’m in Bakersfield (when I’m home hahaha) my email address is calebhardywelding@me.com

This usually works for me.

You’re just down the 99 from me. I was born in Bakersfield. My folks met at East Bakersfield high.  We’ll have to meet up some time. Love going to the Crystal Palace. Great ribeye! My email is threadzy5150@reagan.com. If you want to send it to me. Then I can open it in the quad app. 

I tried something on the way to the hotel today. I maxed out timing on every slider and went all the way to 8.0 on light throttle advanced timing. I kept the rpms under 1700 on the highway. I did not notice any bucking or change in the way the engine sounded at level 0 or level 2 on the quad. On flat ground my oil temperature was 140-150 degrees. I do notice when timing retards pulling a slight hill my oil temperature goes up. I don’t know if that is normal, sounds right though. I’m hoping this might shed some light in the direction I need to go. I’m not to sure what impact it did on engine load difference at cruising speed. Truck does not have head studs and a little hesitant at higher rpms with such high timing. (And I might have that backwards and did more harm) Thoughts on what to try next

You should have gotten some low rpm bucking out of that for sure. High timing and low rpm is hard on head gaskets especially under load. Quad recommends not going over 20 degrees below 2,000 rpms without head studs. Maybe  the PSG isn’t calibrated right or maybe something is wrong with the quad.  But that’s above my pay grade. 

@Caleb Hardy, filling out you signature would help a bit too, your garage says you have an Allison trans, 4.10's and 245/75r16's. That all still true? 4.10's should be up in the 35 inch tire range.. not in 245/75r16 range.. Still wouldnt help the idle engine load at 20+ though.. Unless your converter is super tight but even then I'm not sure...

 

 

The reason I went 4.10’s is there is a large difference between dodge transmission ratios and Allison. 4.10’s and tires that small get me closest to the optimal RPM range. If I had the choice 4.39 gears would have been perfect. The transmission ratio is .61 on the Allison and in dodges there is a range of .69-.74. (Or round about) so for every .61 engine rpm your output shaft rotated 1. After calculating an average of the stock transmissions and ratios that gear set gets me the closest. And after doing all that and drinking the kool-aid of optimal rpm range I should have left them alone. (3.55) truck was quieter and egts +-75. Lots of money for little gain. I kept all the gears so they might just go back in the truck. Hahahaha. So with all that said I think that’s when I really started looking at the engine load.

Update 9/22/22. I had the injectors and injection pump tested. They reported the injection pump failed 4 out 7 fuel capacity test(?????). The injectors were pop tested and ranged from 270-290BAR. I had them rebuild the injection pump and set the injectors back to 320BAR. After install same issues as before. Still idles at 750rpm, engine load and EGT’s still high. I’m at a loss.

Like I suggested you might have to consider that Allison being your load.

That’s right. I was talking with my uncle about dropping the transmission and torque converter. He was wondering if it would cause any stress on the crank when it was running with no counter weight (torque converter/clutch) since it will still have the dampener on? Also if the flex plate would be ok not being backed by the torque converter? He or myself have never done this and didn’t want to run into a surprise. And maybe we are over thinking it.

Nope it will be fine for a test.

👍🏻 Good deal! I’d imagine I would see immediate results so no need to run it for a long period of time, right?

Edited September 26, 20222 yr by Caleb Hardy
Typo

On 9/26/2022 at 2:17 PM, Caleb Hardy said:

That’s right. I was talking with my uncle about dropping the transmission and torque converter. He was wondering if it would cause any stress on the crank when it was running with no counter weight (torque converter/clutch) since it will still have the dampener on? Also if the flex plate would be ok not being backed by the torque converter? He or myself have never done this and didn’t want to run into a surprise. And maybe we are over thinking it.

To the best of my knowledge our engines are internal balance not external balance.. should be no issues with running no converter or clutch..

👍🏻Thank you!