i am going to put an exhaust brake on my truck. since i have had a Banks stinger plus on it for 5 years i am leaning towards the banks brake. cost is about 1k and should install easily. it has a warm up feature that keeps the brake close on start up until water temp hits 125 or you step on the throttle. seen alot of yall talking about e brakes but never about banks. my stinger has worked great since i put it on 5 years ago. ay opinions?

I think the banks brake is the only one you can run larger exhaust with.. I think the others are direct replacement. Not sure on that just what i understand bout it. Ive seen those brakes on ebay as a kit brand new for $890. I hear BD makes a better one that doesent have a hole in the middle.. Its an offset so you have all the retarding power until the pressure pushes the offset valve open alittle.. Sounded like a good idea.. Just my opinion.

Same here... I've read up on the BD e Brake and like it more so over my current Jacobs Brake but what I got works really well being I still roling on factory brake pads yet at 176K miles...

I think the banks brake is the only one you can run larger exhaust with.. I think the others are direct replacement. Not sure on that just what i understand bout it. Ive seen those brakes on ebay as a kit brand new for $890. I hear BD makes a better one that doesent have a hole in the middle.. Its an offset so you have all the retarding power until the pressure pushes the offset valve open alittle.. Sounded like a good idea.. Just my opinion.

the banks does come both ways, stock and 4". Mine is 4" from turbo back. came with the stinger plus system. the one on ebay for $890 is for stock exhaust. the 4" was $990 everywhere i looked which is about 200 less than when I looked at em 5 years ago. BD's data looks like it holds more pressure at lower rpms than banks. i do like the warm up feature on the banks and what appears to be litle to no maintenance. i am still leaning towards banks due to experience with the stinger plus. I appreciate your opinion.

--- Update to the previous post...

Same here... I've read up on the BD e Brake and like it more so over my current Jacobs Brake but what I got works really well being I still roling on factory brake pads yet at 176K miles...

[*]that speaks alot for the bd, cause i know how highly you have spoken about your jacobs brake in the past. I do like the banks warm up feature and low maintenance. performance wise bd shows theirs is better. igues the only way to tell would be to try them both. don't think my wallet could stand that. i appreciate your input.

[*]i have 217k on my rear brakes. on my 3rd set of front brakes. also have my original clutch. do you still have yours?

Nope... My factory clutch the hub broke out of it... The material was in good shape but part of the hub broke causing issues with shifting and grabbing.

did you go back oem or upgrade? don't know how long mine is going to last. is there any easy way to check for clutch wear?

did you go back oem or upgrade?

Southbend Con OFE

don't know how long mine is going to last. is there any easy way to check for clutch wear?

Nope... Yank the trans out... Pull the pressure plate... That is the only way to check.

Southbend Con OFE Nope... Yank the trans out... Pull the pressure plate... That is the only way to check.

kinda thought that. Thinking about doing my clutch before it goes when it wants to. while i have the tranny off i want some body to go thru it. if the gears are good would replacing the bearings and the synchronizers be what i would be looking at replacing? The trany is jumping out of 1st and reverse when it is not under load. by that i mean it will stay in gear while under throttle or coasting with the rpm up. just trying to gain a little knowlege so i am not completely ignorant when i discuss this with a shop.

kinda thought that. Thinking about doing my clutch before it goes when it wants to. while i have the tranny off i want some body to go thru it. if the gears are good would replacing the bearings and the synchronizers be what i would be looking at replacing? The trany is jumping out of 1st and reverse when it is not under load. by that i mean it will stay in gear while under throttle or coasting with the rpm up. just trying to gain a little knowlege so i am not completely ignorant when i discuss this with a shop.

this is NOT a dodge transmission. it is the 5-speed off of my ford ranger. it is smaller but similar. can you see why i opened her up?

this is NOT a dodge transmission. it is the 5-speed off of my ford ranger. it is smaller but similar. can you see why i opened her up? [ATTACH=CONFIG]1887[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1888[/ATTACH]

actually i can't. the internal looks like any tranny i have seen. I would like to get mine right and would like to talk intelligantly I am sure ther is something to learn in this but your going to have to teach me.

actually i can't. the internal looks like any tranny i have seen. I would like to get mine right and would like to talk intelligantly I am sure ther is something to learn in this but your going to have to teach me.

if you zoom in on the input shaft you can see the carnage these pictures show the damage in more detail the first 2 are the input shaft. some teeth broke off. it caused damage to the counter shaft(3rd pic). a manual transmission is easy to understand once you see it. i had never worked on a transmission before i fixed this one. i scavenged an input and counter from another transmission that had needle bearing failure(from losing fluid from a leaky rear seal). i bought new syncros, 1 or 2 needles and new tapered rollers. transmission is still running good.

The damage is pretty obvious. i would like to do it myself but my job keeps me on the road tomuch to tackle this one. just trying to arm myself with info so no one takes advantage of the stuation. I have heard alot about crappy gears on the marketand i don't want to end up with any. i believe you can still get good bearings and syncro's though. i want to drive this truck another 9 years, just want to do it right the first time. your help is appreciated.

The damage is pretty obvious. i would like to do it myself but my job keeps me on the road tomuch to tackle this one. just trying to arm myself with info so no one takes advantage of the stuation. I have heard alot about crappy gears on the marketand i don't want to end up with any. i believe you can still get good bearings and syncro's though. i want to drive this truck another 9 years, just want to do it right the first time. your help is appreciated.

pulling it yourself and putting it back in yourself will save you $$$. if you pull it yourself, then you might as well peak in. i am all for having a professional do the job, as it requires a lot of specialized(or modified) tools. only your 2 eyes(or a picture) can save you from getting ripped off .

pulling it yourself and putting it back in yourself will save you $$$. if you pull it yourself, then you might as well peak in. i am all for having a professional do the job, as it requires a lot of specialized(or modified) tools. only your 2 eyes(or a picture) can save you from getting ripped off .

i am all for saving the cash. i will do it myself if my next job is close enough to the house and the clutch holds up. other than the 1st and reverse issue everything is working fine. at 217k i figure the clutch might be getting a little thin. right now i am working about 550 miles from home and only get back every 2 or 3 weeks for a weekend. i could git-r-done in about 5months like that:lol:. we sill just have to see how it goes.

I think the banks brake is the only one you can run larger exhaust with.. I think the others are direct replacement. Not sure on that just what i understand bout it. Ive seen those brakes on ebay as a kit brand new for $890. I hear BD makes a better one that doesent have a hole in the middle.. Its an offset so you have all the retarding power until the pressure pushes the offset valve open alittle.. Sounded like a good idea.. Just my opinion.

Check out US Gear D-celerator exhaust brakes. They are available in 4" and don't require an air supply plus they install in the exhaust pipe instead of on the back side of the turbo so you can use a larger charger with them!! Here you go: http://www.usgear.cc/dcelerator.htm

Check out US Gear D-celerator exhaust brakes. They are available in 4" and don't require an air supply plus they install in the exhaust pipe instead of on the back side of the turbo so you can use a larger charger with them!!

Here you go:

http://www.usgear.cc/dcelerator.htm

thanks prowler. I checked it out. looked like a good product, just was not sure about clamping it into the exhaust system and it was $300 more than the banks. I went the banks. it just bolted right into my exhast sustem. took me about 5hrs by myself to install. seems to work very well, but wont know how well untill i tow my trailer. that was on my to do list until the water heater gave out at home. my choice was; wife happy with working plumbing or david happy towing trailer. david lost. i appreciate your input.

--- Update to the previous post...

thanks to all of yall for your input. i am curious of something. I see all kind of brands being used here for many different applications. am i the only one usings banks systems? i have had very good service from my stinger plus i installe 5 years ago. that is another reason i went with the banks brake.

thanks prowler. I checked it out. looked like a good product, just was not sure about clamping it into the exhaust system and it was $300 more than the banks. I went the banks. it just bolted right into my exhast sustem. took me about 5hrs by myself to install. seems to work very well, but wont know how well untill i tow my trailer. that was on my to do list until the water heater gave out at home. my choice was; wife happy with working plumbing or david happy towing trailer. david lost. i appreciate your input.

--- Update to the previous post...

thanks to all of yall for your input. i am curious of something. I see all kind of brands being used here for many different applications. am i the only one usings banks systems? i have had very good service from my stinger plus i installe 5 years ago. that is another reason i went with the banks brake.

Yeah I was turned onto them by a friend that lives out in Nevada, Howie. He seemed to really like it and says it works pretty well.

For the most part, most of us are a little anit-Banks b/c most of his stuff is overpriced due to his name....

Yeah I was turned onto them by a friend that lives out in Nevada, Howie. He seemed to really like it and says it works pretty well. For the most part, most of us are a little anit-Banks b/c most of his stuff is overpriced due to his name....

I think i spent $2500 on the stinger plus and their power elbow($250) to make it 4" all the way. that was more than piecing it together from different manufacturers. alspo bought it straight from banks which made it a little higher than from a vendor. the exhaust brake price was in line with other brands though, but i did not buy it thru banks. the stinger has served me well:thumb1: so i hope the brake does too.

I think i spent $2500 on the stinger plus and their power elbow($250) to make it 4" all the way. that was more than piecing it together from different manufacturers. alspo bought it straight from banks which made it a little higher than from a vendor. the exhaust brake price was in line with other brands though, but i did not buy it thru banks. the stinger has served me well:thumb1: so i hope the brake does too.

If you are interested I have a banks brake that I am trying to sell. Its brand new and as never been used I am looking to get 800 obo for it, it would come with a 4 inch down pipe and all of the hard wear for it. Just PM me if you have any questions.

already purchased and installed one. seems like all the deals show up after i need them:cry:. appreciate the offer though.

already purchased and installed one. seems like all the deals show up after i need them:cry:. appreciate the offer though.

O well sh!t happens, if you know anyone else that is look for one just send them my way.