Hello, I'm Dennis. I'm the original owner of my 2001 2500 quad cab long bed 4x4. It's currently stock except for the air filter, fass, smarty. The auto was rebuilt a few years ago planning on futures mods. 3.55 and with 3rd gen brakes, wheels and 265/70/17 tires. About 150k on the clock. Last trip towing my travel trailer (about 10k lbs), the turbo started acting up. That means upgrade time. I've paid the piper and now have a log list of parts on the way. Mostly from DAP. My plan is to do these upgrades in 4-5 install stages.

Stage 1, Exhaust manifold and HX35 62/64/12 turbo

Stage 2, Quad Adrenaline and gauges (gonna use an old ipad for them)

Stage 3, 100hp injectors, head studs and valve lash adjust/correction. I probably don't need the studs, but I'm in there.

Stage 4, Fleece Sureflo, redo lines from tank to fass to vp. Thinking about eliminating the canister, but I'm unsure if it will create problems/codes. Looking forward to having a working fuel gauge again. I might switch stage 3 and 4 around.

Stage 5, All the little things that have been neglected over the years. New drivers seat cover/cushion, new hood insulation, new grill...

 

The old girl is mostly just a work horse. Not getting near as much attention as she deserves. Four or five trips a year plus hardware store and dump runs. I recently turned down the opportunity to buy my brother in law's 2016 3500 4x4 limited long bed. I've loved his truck since he took delivery on it. That's pretty much what spurred on these upgrades. 40k for a used truck with 125k on it, or give the old girl some lovin. So here I am

 

Kind regards

Dennis

 

 

I have 127K miles and use it to haul an 8k pound 5er with a 500+ pound boat and trailer behind that.  Of all the things to think about fixing the head gasket is not even on the radar.  If it's not broke don't fix it. 

the factory head seal is the best seal you can get.  I would never pull the head unless you have a issue.  

 

if money was burning a hole in your pocket I wouldn't say you shouldn't put studs in for peace of mind over the next 150,000 miles, but let me be clear if your gasket is still making a good seal your upgrade path does not require studs by any stretch.

Well, I have the studs now, so they'll go in. Without pulling the head, I'll use the one hole at a time method like I originally planned on. If for no other reason than peace of mind. I didn't see a reason to go further, but I'd thought I'd check. All of these upgrades are in preparation for longer national park trips. Perhaps only a dream now, but in the next year or two, I plan on making it a reality. Yellowstone and south has been on my radar for a while. So if the studs give me peace of mind, they're worth it.

Edited December 12, 20222 yr by 1361

You could always take that $$$ you were willing to spend on a HG and valves and put it towards an exhaust brake. Pretty sure @IBMobilehas an EB with his auto. If I was trying to enjoy my retirement by traveling around America towing a 10K camper I’d want an EB. Actually, @IBMobile can you explain exactly how the PRXB works on the 47re trucks? Is there a controller that locks/unlocks the converter automatically between shifts or is that still controlled manually with a switch? @Me78569came up with the slickest mod, adding a factory looking momentary lock up switch to the shifter arm…I also like how some guys use a momentary switch pedal on the floor.

Edited December 12, 20222 yr by Andyba20

7 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

Is there a controller that locks/unlocks the converter automatically between shifts

Yes, there is a controller that keeps the convertor locked when the E-Brake is engaged.

 

8 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

momentary lock up switch to the shifter arm

I installed one in the truck that was used to lock the torque convertor with my own mystery switch setup.  When I installed the E-Brake I removed the relays but left the switch.  I'm now thinking about using the switch to manually activate the E-Brake when I down shift and going slow, 2ed gear and 30mph down a steep winding road.

5 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I'm now thinking about using the switch to manually activate the E-Brake when I down shift and going slow, 2ed gear and 30mph down a steep winding road.

Why? Is the controller not engaging the EB when you let off the throttle? I have only driven manual trucks with EB’s so I don’t have much of a reference point.

With the E-Brake engaged, If I manually down shift from O/D to 3ed the E-Brake will disengage and not operate until the accelerator is depressed and released.  I find this very disconcerting when trying to slow down.   A manual override will give more control to the user.  

I’d definitely prefer a manual locking switch, but does the controller prevent the trans from shifting while locked, or does the controller momentarily unlock for the shift to occur? That’s the part I’m missing.

Up shifting is normal.  The trans will not down shift from O/D to 3ed with E-Brake engaged until the RPMs drop below 1000 or you do it manually.

@IBMobileWhat’s your speed at 1000 rpm in 4th? What happens if you, say, got to 1500 rpm in 4th with EB engaged and then lock out OD? Does the controller know to unlock for the downshift then relock, or are you saying in that scenario it still won’t downshift to 3rd until 1000 rpm? 
 

 

4 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

@IBMobileWhat’s your speed at 1000 rpm in 4th?

~30MPH   When I say the E-Brake is on that means it is powered up but not functioning.  when engaged it is functioning and slowing the truck down.

 

4 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

say, got to 1500 rpm in 4th with EB engaged and then lock out OD? Does the controller know to unlock for the downshift then relock,

 If slowing down with the transmission in 4th gear and the E-Brake engaged the transmission will stay in 4th gear and the E-Brake will not disengage until 1000RPMs is reached at which point the transmission shifts normally. 

With the E-Brake engaged the 4-3 down shift can only occur manually, the transmission will unlock, and the E-Brake will disengage for the downshift.  Once down shifted to 3ed gear the E-Brake will not reengage until the controller sees there is an RPM over 1500 and the accelerator pedal has come off idle circuit then back to idle. 

 

On 12/12/2022 at 8:41 AM, Andyba20 said:

You could always take that $$$ you were willing to spend on a HG and valves and put it towards an exhaust brake. Pretty sure @IBMobilehas an EB with his auto. If I was trying to enjoy my retirement by traveling around America towing a 10K camper I’d want an EB. Actually, @IBMobile can you explain exactly how the PRXB works on the 47re trucks? Is there a controller that locks/unlocks the converter automatically between shifts or is that still controlled manually with a switch? @Me78569came up with the slickest mod, adding a factory looking momentary lock up switch to the shifter arm…I also like how some guys use a momentary switch pedal on the floor.

 

I would like an exhaust brake. But that will have to wait until I get everything I've got installed. I'm doing more than I'd like to at basically the same time. I want to insure everything is working seamlessly together before I add something else to my equation.

 

 

14 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Once down shifted to 3ed gear the E-Brake will not reengage until the controller sees there is an RPM over 1500 and the accelerator pedal has come off idle circuit then back to idle. 

Ok to mitigate this you are wanting to hook your mystery switch back up (and run in tandem with the EB controller). So if you’re manually locking the TC with the mystery switch, is the controller smart enough to know the TC is locked and not downshift? Even if you bump the switch to get lock up right after downshift to 3rd, will the controller stay locked after you release the momentary switch or does it still need to see the TPS change off idle and back to idle? Could you use the mystery switch to momentarily “fool” the TPS, I mean could it be wired to do that (a split second signal to mimic going off idle and back)? Or would that type of “fooling” need to happen from the controller? And is the controller’s behavior determined by rpm and TPS only, or is it gear based (does the controller know what gear the truck is in?) Meaning will it behave the same for a 3rd to 2nd downshift as it does with the 4th to 3rd?

 

I can see how it would be annoying to have to bump the throttle on a descent to get the EB to reengage, I assume PacBrake did that as a safety feature to avoid grenading input shafts. 

Welcome to the family... Sorry I'm late to the party here but life has been keeping me hoping these days and busy.

 

On 12/9/2022 at 3:06 PM, 1361 said:

Stage 1, Exhaust manifold and HX35 62/64/12 turbo

Just consider I'm running +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) and stock HX35W turbo and stock manifold. EGTs are low like 550*F at 65 MPH on flat ground. 

 

On 12/9/2022 at 3:06 PM, 1361 said:

Stage 2, Quad Adrenaline and gauges (gonna use an old ipad for them)

This you should do. This is part of my key to high MPGs and low EGT's. I will admit that tuning isn't just quick set and walk away there is a lot of fine tuning to do, I've got several tricks to keeping the MPG's high and the EGT's low.

 

On 12/9/2022 at 3:06 PM, 1361 said:

Stage 3, 100hp injectors, head studs and valve lash adjust/correction. I probably don't need the studs, but I'm in there.

Studs will prevent head curl which typically starts by about 300k miles it will help and don't be afraid to torque them tighter I've got my ARP 425's torqued to 135 foot/pounds. That is not a typo. +100 HP injectors are child's play nice good bump in power but fairly easy to tune for MPG's. I will give away I didn't pop mine to 305 bar like more builders but 320 bar (extra 146 PSI). Better longevity for the injectors and slight boost in finer spray. 

 

On 12/9/2022 at 3:06 PM, 1361 said:

Stage 4, Fleece Sureflo, redo lines from tank to fass to vp. Thinking about eliminating the canister, but I'm unsure if it will create problems/codes. Looking forward to having a working fuel gauge again. I might switch stage 3 and 4 around.

I would keep the stock filter can if its still there extra filter is always a plus. I've also ran my lines inside the frame nothing to snag. As for the sender basket it can be fully replaced or just the sender part. The sender you can still get from Dodge Dealers. Then the sender basket if damaged you can get from @dieselautopower yeah I had a sender pin rot off and drop my gauge to nothing. 

 

I would drop the #1 step to the last step. Being its very possible to run a stock turbo yet on +150 HP injectors which I'm still doing without any EGT's issues. I would do #4 next insure you have the volume of fuel for what is next. Then #2 is easy enough to do. Then #3 I would do last. That way when the injectors and Quadzilla is together you can do the tune work once and move forward. 

On 12/14/2022 at 8:14 AM, Andyba20 said:

So if you’re manually locking the TC with the mystery switch, is the controller smart enough to know the TC is locked and not downshift?

It has to be either E-Brake controller or mystery switch; they will not work in tandem.  I tried this when the E-Brake was first installed, and the torque convertor would not unlock unless it turned the ignition off.  Made for a very exciting stop.  I've been thinking of a work around design to try out later next year.   Ok, no more hijacking this thread.