I have had weird electrical problems with the truck for years.  But never let me down except original vp44 crapped out a year in a half ago and replaced it. My belt snapped in my driveway Recently and I needed to get new battery as well so I decided to inspect clean or replace a few grounds and do a few things on the truck. Battery, 2 new terminals, oil filter change and fuel filter change add a new fp gauge sensor and buy all new fuses for the truck while Inside and out and new tensioner because it was worn out. Did fluids first started truck with old belt ran perfect for a min and belt came off again so i shut it down immediately.  then i disconnect batts and started removing fuses and did everything except tensioner since I couldnt find a long enough ratchet at the time. Hooked everything back up and now truck wont start. It blew #3 fuse in pdc the first time i tried starting it and The vp won't kick on and right after wts light the  first time the check engine light pulls up with  p1693 and p1694. after that i only get code no comm from buss to vp44. Cleared code and it comes right back I been slammed with work so my next move is wt mod but I did all new grounds with copper ends flux solder and heat shrink and all accessory power lines the same except the harness grounds in the wt mod, Dr side engine ground, And ground right above starter. All relays and fuses are good lift pump kicks on fine and i have power and ground to vp pump.  I don't know if the auto shut off is telling or not to kick on or if there is a bad connection in my PDC some where.  I checked all grounds i replaced they where good. I want to hard wire the vp and tap ignition to see if it kicks on and maybe it's a wiring harness issue or I'm taking the ecm and pcm and getting them  repaired if it's not the pump. Also checked all connectors in pdc with power probe for positive or negative confirmation for all fuses and relays and the asd fuse top left blade when ignition is on goes in and out. I Can give any info on continuity ground open or closed circuits and volts if needed for you guys. I Need help I'm stumped......

Edited March 4, 20232 yr by 99dodgecram

2 hours ago, 99dodgecram said:

new tensioner because it was worn out. Did fluids first started truck with old belt ran perfect for a min and belt came off again so i shut it down immediately.  then i disconnect batts and started removing fuses and did everything except tensioner since I couldnt find a long enough ratchet at the time.

 

So, the belt came off and you turned the engine off.  Why did you disconnect batteries and remove fuses?  I am missing the relationship here.

 

- John

I put all new fuses on the truck and did some maintenance  to it over the weekend. When The belt broke I shut the truck off and continued working on the truck fuses and terminals. I still needed to put the new tensioner and new belt on anywaysso i just did the truck off ands keeps working. After i changed the fuses and cleaned around all the terminals and the c130 harness going into the pdc is when the truck wouldn't start. 

Edited March 4, 20232 yr by 99dodgecram

That center bolt you have to be careful not to over torque the bolt. I've seen several that broke the nut assembly inside the PDC. Then the but spins inside and never really tightens.

so after 3 straight days of chasing wires cleaning every connectors and check very ground from inside the dash to engine compartment this is the update.i was having a hard time for awhile getting the obd2 to connect to anything so i took it apart and cleaned it. it still a hit or a miss and mostly a miss.  i bought a obd2 breakout box to check the volts when plugged in and got the thing working and then all the good codes.  p0123 p0622 p1286 p1689 p1693 and p1694. i think its safe to say both ecm and pcm need to get sent out. any recommendations.

4 hours ago, 99dodgecram said:

i think its safe to say both ecm and pcm need to get sent out. any recommendations.

@Auto Computer Specialist would be my first step. Give them a call and see if they can help you... Their list for contacts are in the Vendor list and also in the Vendor forum.

SENDING IT OUT TO THEM IN THE NEXT DAY OR 2

well, i over nighted both pcm and ecm to miami and paid extra to skip everyone ahead of me. thay have a great deal going on for both to get repaired I couldnt beat it. the pcm date was a year newer then my truck and ecm date code. Does anybody no if thats something to be concerned about or no? also starting wt mod today. i will post once i hear from them fingers crossed!

just got the PCM & ECM back. was told to i need a new crank sensor to before i plug everything in. Is there other brands that are worthy besides cummins for sensor. was told  to steer away from there newer stuff.Finished terminals halfway threw WT mod. they snt me alist of things that where wrong with my computers and i am really happy with there work the did and awesome job and very legit company. mopar man thank you very much for sending me to them.

also does anybody know where to get obd 2 pins 1 of mine is loose and is the reason it wont comunicate to the truck. and need a new clip for one of the plugs on the pcm the locking part broke off.

for the crank sensor, I used an Autozone one and had to replace less than a year later.  I have a NAPA one in there now and its been a little over a year and still going.

thats where i went got a duralast for 80 bucks with lifetime warranty so i guess thats a deal lol. it didnt come with the metal mounting peice tho is it suppose too?

Edited March 18, 20232 yr by 99dodgecram

mine came with the metal piece on it

Personally should have done a Timbo's APPS it's all mechanical and has no electronics like most OE-styled APPS.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Personally should have done a Timbo's APPS it's all mechanical and has no electronics like most OE-styled APPS.

 

 

We were talking about the crank sensor

Edited March 19, 20232 yr by hdpwipmonkey

does it matter if it has the metal piece on it or not?

WT mod is done just have to pick a new grounding spot tomorrow. That and sensor, make sure everything is plugged in again and throw the computers in and hopefully all is well..... And debating de greasing the **** out of the motor and undercarriage after opening up the wires today i seen how dirty everything is.

Edited March 20, 20232 yr by 99dodgecram

On 3/19/2023 at 10:03 AM, hdpwipmonkey said:

 

 

We were talking about the crank sensor

 

Sorry I got crossed up with being interrupted and came back thinking about another thread... 

they sold me a dam cam sensor thats why there was no clip..... idiots

7 hours ago, 99dodgecram said:

they sold me a dam cam sensor thats why there was no clip..... idiots

That sounds about par for the course for Autozone 

well after a week 2 days of working on it and finally getting the right parts the ******* blinking wait to start light is still on and wont start.

ECM issue. The wait to start is directly hooked to the ECM and one of the first instructions at boot time to control that light. If you didn't yet I would contact Auto Computer Specialist.

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

ECM issue. The wait to start is directly hooked to the ECM and one of the first instructions at boot time to control that light. If you didn't yet I would contact Auto Computer Specialist.

He just got his PCM and ECM back from them 

Edited March 25, 20232 yr by hdpwipmonkey