For those of you that did the mod what brand of circuit breaker did you use and have you had any problems with them. I am finishing off mine and also modding my travel trailer to use lithium batteries and wanted to use the same style so I can use it as a disconnect.

I ended up using a big fuse and carry a spare with me just in case. I think some folks were having issues with the breakers being too sensitive and tripping early.  See links below. (I used a 200 amp fuse bc I have an aftermarket alternator). If you have the oem alternator you’d be fine with a 140-150 amp fuse. I installed my fuse holder just along the passenger side battery tray. Geez I didn’t answer your question at all haha. 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/littelfuse/lighting---electrical/fuses/fuses/da78d762ece6/littelfuse-200-amp-mega-fuse/lit0/meg200bp

 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-hmeg?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIveCPzdi0_gIVttDjBx1ZcgF5EAQYFyABEgIlZPD_BwE
 

I used the 150 amp fuse shown below.  Comes as a two-pack.  I mounted it to the outside of my OEM air filter box.  I have only had mine in operation since last October (about 4,000 miles), but no issues so far.  Some say that the lid comes off easily - I have not had that problem yet.

 

- John

 

The only time I've manage to trip my breaker is when the temperatures are low and grid Hester's run longer, and even have the Quadzilla high idle running. But no biggy pop the hood and reset the breaker. Possibly the high idle is the cause of the breaker trip being high idle at 1,200 RPM will decrease IAT temperature making the grid heater to run longer, then the alternator goes wide open and manages to heat the breaker just enough to trip. 

 

Solution... Disconnect the grid heater power lead from the driver side battery. Problem Solved. 

I use one of these triggered with a switch in the cab. Grid heater wire to one side and a heavy wire from other side to battery positive. Now I can turn them on and shut them off after truck starts. Very convenient. 

Hamolar 2 Pack 12V 200 Amp Continuous Duty Relay Switch Car Starter Heavy Duty Split Charge 4 Terminal SPST Relays for Truck Boat Marine https://a.co/d/05tCOxi

I was looking at a Bussman 150 amp unit. Some of the testing on Youtube it was the only one that did not get warm to hot under heavy load.

1 hour ago, Nekkedbob said:

I was looking at a Bussman 150 amp unit. Some of the testing on Youtube it was the only one that did not get warm to hot under heavy load.

That’s interesting, I suspected my mega got hot during a long heavy winch pull a few months ago. Also makes me want to go back and crimp my lugs instead of soldering them. 

This is the breaker that I used.  I have never had it pop yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 hours ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

This is the breaker that I used.  I have never had it pop yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got a similar breaker rated for 150A. Just different name.

Here is the one that I am looking at.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B000KOVC12/ref=sr_1_5?crid=O8BHWPQ7YLOV&keywords=buss%2Bmrcb&qid=1682022011&sprefix=%2Caps%2C329&sr=8-5&th=1

I'm trying a fusible link for this application. The downfall I can see is that I'll need a new cable if something goes awry. However, a component failure that bad is going to necessitate a trip to the parts store anyway. I like the fusible link because it's a clean install with no fuse to mount. One crimp and it's done.

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/fusible-links/