Hey all, hoping I can get some advice or an answer from somebody who has had this problem or knows a lot more than I do. Last night, I decided to flush my power steering system because my steering never has been great and I’m also sure it’s never been done (truck has 320k miles). Before flushing, I did the DIY hot rod pump mod because after reading and seeing how much people liked it I figured I’d give it a try. I drilled the holes to the proper size and location on my Bridgeport and made sure they were exactly centered. I cleaned the relief valve and reinstalled it as well. Next, I did the flushing procedure as described in the Haynes manual, removed both return lines and routed them to a bucket, had a helper turn the wheel while I added fluid. I wasn’t expecting it at first, but when the truck was started I had fluid blowing out the return line from the hydroboost before the wheel was even turned, so the pump ran dry for a second or so cause I couldn’t catch up with the bottle of fluid in my hand. Nothing came out of the return from the gearbox. I decided it’d be best to try flushing with the truck off because I went through so much fluid before I even turned the wheels. Did the procedure with the truck off until clean fluid came out of the gearbox return hose. Reinstalled both return lines, topped it off and bled the system until all bubbles were gone and I just saw clean fluid. I could see the fluid moving in the reservoir so I knew the pump was working.

 

Sorry for the long part about the work I did, wanted to make sure everyone knew what I did, now to the part I need help with. I set the truck down off the jackstands and backed out of the garage and man, that power steering worked great! Turned easier than it ever has before at an idle while not moving. Brakes felt better too just in the driveway. I was pretty excited and thought I finally did something good for the ol girl. So I took it for a drive to my buddy’s house 5 minutes up the road and pulling out of the driveway it all worked great, but by the time I got to his house I had no power steering or brakes at all. Driving down the road the steering felt real easy but I did notice I had a lot of feedback into the wheel from bumps I’d hit, which I never had before. Whenever I’d slow down to turn is when I noticed my steering and brakes were basically not there. I checked the fluid level, it was fine and tried bleeding it again and got no air bubbles for the 20 minutes we turned the wheel back and forth on the stands. With the truck back on the ground, the wheel still won’t turn all, but looking inside the reservoir with the cap off the fluid level does drop some when my buddy tried to turn the wheel, but would come right back up when he’d let go of the wheel and let it return to wherever it returned to. 
 

So does anyone have an idea of what may be going on who knows these systems more than I do? I find it odd that it did work, but then quit in the short 5 minute drive to my buddy’s house. My guess would be my pump is shot, as that fluid that came out was very black and the inside of my pump reservoir had a dirty looking thin film coating the entire inside. Is it possible I killed it when it ran dry for a second trying to flush it, or did I mess up the DIY hot rod pump mod? I wouldn’t think I messed up the pump mod, because if I had it wouldn’t have worked at all to begin with right? 
 

I hope one of you who’s either been through this or know more about these systems can give me an idea of where to look or what I need to be buying. My guess would be the pump, but before going out and buying one I’d like to hear anyone else’s ideas first as I’m not in a position to throw tons of money at it currently. 

22 hours ago, Zach B said:

Okay, I’m a little confused so just to confirm I’m reading everything right about the adjustment:

 

Maybe this will help.  The photo below shows a simplified drawing of a recirculating ball type power steering gearbox.  Your objective is to achieve zero clearance with the slightest preload between the ball nut rack and the sector gear when the steering gearbox is centered (tires in straight ahead position).  Normally, this adjustment is done on a work bench using an inch-pound torque wrench, so there is no friction interference from other steering components.

 

Note the adjusting screw and lock nut on top of the Pitman shaft (also called sector shaft).  This is what you are adjusting.  Raising the Pitman shaft increases clearance - lowering decreases  clearance.  Because you are making this adjustment in the vehicle, it is better to have a very slight clearance than no clearance. 

 

I use a different method than Moparman.  I note the position of the adjusting screw before loosening the jam nut.  I loosen the jam nut and then tighten the screw 1/8 turn (clockwise from top view).  I tighten the jam nut.  Without starting the engine, I just barely move the steering wheel left and right - there should be virtually no friction.  I then test drive the truck. 

 

I will continue to make 1/8 turn adjustments until I think it is right.  If, when you are driving straight ahead, the steering becomes sticky (this can be very subtle), then the adjustment is too tight.  Back off the adjusting screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn.  Again, better too loose than too tight. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

- John

 

 

 

Makes much more sense now with the explanation to what I’m trying to achieve by adjusting the gearbox and the visual. Thank you for that

so it’s been a few weeks since I’ve posted in this thread. I ended up going on an long trip and just got back, so today I attempted to adjust the gearbox and it didn’t go as planned.

 

I loosened the nut on the adjustment screw and backed it off plenty while holding the adjustment screw in place so I could run the adjustment screw all the way in. I then took my Allen wrench and went to run the adjustment crew in (clockwise) to bottom and got maybe a 1/2 turn before it bottomed out. I tried to go a little further in case it hit a tough spot on the threads but was afraid to break something because it felt like it was definitely bottomed out. So, I then went to run the screw out (counter clockwise) and only got maybe 3/4 of a turn before it stopped and cannot be turned out any further. I’ve tried working it back and forth thinking threads may be dirty with no luck. I also hit up on the output shaft to see if that was the reason the screw wouldn’t turn anymore but had no luck. 
 

Anyone know why this is or if it’s something I’m doing wrong? I figured it would take more than 1/2 a turn to run the screw in, but even if that’s all it took I can’t run it out the 2 turns like what was recommended by moparman. Not really sure where to go from here, anyone have ideas?

It's the weight of the pitman arm and linkage. Now take a rubber hammer or dead blow and punch it back up so to give that slack you need. The only other way to do it is remove the entire box from the truck and use a small hammer to tap the output shaft back inward. Then you can get your slack. I can typically do this with it all in the truck. 

 

1. Loosen jamb nut

2. Run the adjusting stud all the way in till it stops. 

3. Then start counting turns back out you need at least 2 turns back out.

3a. If it can't be reached then tap the output shaft back up because the adjusting stud does not have the ability to lift that weight. 

4. After adjustment start the truck and check for binding in the straight position and how much free play left to right.

4a. If the center is binding you need to add more slack.

4b. If the free play is excessive you need to tighten up the adjustment bolt to take free play out of the gears.

I know it’s been awhile since this thread has been posted in, but I didn’t want to make another one when I could kinda pickup where I left off here now that I have another issue. 
 

Moparman, I did try your adjusting procedure. I could not get the adjustment screw to turn in more than a 1/2 turn, or move out more than 3/4. I was tapping the shaft up and that did nothing, still stuck at 3/4 turn out so I said forget it. 
 

My new issue is now that cold weather has arrived my PS system is acting up. The last two times I started the truck cold, the steering has whined and vibrated very bad whenever I would push the brake pedal or turn. After the truck got up to operating temp it got better, but never left. I checked fluid level, it was where it should be. Tried bleeding procedure again, no bubbles. Today I notice my steering gearbox is leaking quite a bit. I was in a tight spot and had to make a 6 or 7 point turn and saw a trail of fluid on the ground which ended up being from my gearbox. 
 

Question is, could my vibration be from the steering box leaking/being bad? Or is it possible something else in the system is not operating correctly when it’s cold and it caused the seal to blow out of my gearbox? Also, is it possible for the average guy to locate a kit and rebuild this gearbox, or is it best to just buy one? Only reason I am considering rebuilding is because I cannot afford a Blue or redtop box right now, I’ve been getting hit pretty hard with unplanned expenses this whole month. If it is not recommended to rebuild on my own, I know they aren’t great but has anyone had any experience with a parts store reman gearbox (Cardone from advanced auto is what I was looking at). 
 

Sorry to open up this thread again, just stuck in a hard spot with this being my only vehicle

The lower bearing most likely is worn out if it's leaking from the output shaft. There are two seals in that hole. One is a dust seal and the other is a hydraulic seal. Sadly it might be the output shaft has been binding being you didn't gain the slack back and might be binding in the center/straight position. This why I always make sure there are at least 1.5 turns back from the bottom. You might have to pull the box and get a seal kit at worst. Steering boxes are extremely easy to rebuild yourself and can save a ton of money not going to a blue top or redhead. If you remove the box pull the two hydraulic lines and the input (steering shaft) and output (pitman arm). You'll be able to open the steering box at the sector adjust. Then unscrew it off the output shaft. Slide the shaft out and you can order a new output bearing and seal kit. Just be sure to check the shaft for wear. 

I did the pump mod a few years ago, no bother at all but after a few weeks or so lost all power assist on steering and brakes the same valve had stuck, drove home about 20 miles with rock hard steering and next to no brakes cleaned the relief valve no problem since, well until today, PS fluid leaking out of a small hole in the hydroboost just where the accumulator is, good job I ordered a new hydro the other month..... my job for tomorrow

 

Yes I believe you are correct, it did appear the leak was coming from the output shaft of the gearbox

 

Driving the truck it didn’t feel like the box was binding, really didn’t feel any different than before. Either way it shouldn’t be that far off from where it was because I only ran the screw in half a turn before it stopped, then backed it out the 3/4 turn since it wouldn’t let me go any further, even with hitting up on the output shaft. Any idea why that happened?
 

If it’s as easy as you say it is I’ll go ahead and find a rebuild kit, anywhere you recommend getting it from? Also, I don’t have the dodge FSM for my truck, is there anywhere I can find directions for the box rebuild that includes specs? I want to do it once and have it work right. 
 

Also, any clues as to what’s causing the bad vibration and whine in the pedal and steering when it’s cold? It did the same thing occasionally last winter, but then other days it would be fine. The pump is new, so could it be something in my hydroboost? I don’t believe there’s anything in my gearbox that would cause that but I could be wrong

There could have been debris in the bottom of the gearbox that when the shaft moved the debris damaged the seal as one idea. Could have been the gear started binding some and distorted the seal. Bearing could be worn. The shaft might have a pit or defect in the shaft as it slide down exposed a leak. 

On 9/15/2023 at 2:03 PM, Zach B said:

Only complaint with the new pump is it makes a little bit of noise, not much, and sometimes I can feel a slight vibration in the brake pedal whenever I can hear the pump noise. Going to assume that's just what I get when buying a $65 reman pump from Advanced Auto to get me out of a pinch

 

Back in September, you installed this pump and noted the noise and vibration.  Prior to that, you don't mention a noise or vibration.  I would suspect a faulty pump.  You could try using the right type of synthetic oil in the system after you determine what you are going to with the steering gear box.

 

- John

20 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

Back in September, you installed this pump and noted the noise and vibration.  Prior to that, you don't mention a noise or vibration.  I would suspect a faulty pump.  You could try using the right type of synthetic oil in the system after you determine what you are going to with the steering gear box.

 

- John

Yes you’re correct, I did have some noise and slight vibration when I installed the pump. I continued to drive the truck and it went away and never came back, until now. Prior to installing the new pump the only time it had vibration and noise was last winter when it got cold, but the noise and vibration was much much worse than the little bit I had when the new pump was installed.

 

Ive since topped the fluid off when I noticed the leak, did the bleed procedure and the vibration went away. I cleaned off the gearbox, lines and anything down there that had oil on it and have driven the truck for a couple days and it’s still as dry as can be, and the fluid level hasn’t dropped. I’ll order a seal kit and go ahead and install it, hopefully that prevents any problem from coming back

Make sure to inspect the shaft closely where the seal would ride.