Hello, im new here and to the 2nd gen community. Just picked up a 1999 dodge ram 24v a week or so ago from my uncle. Truck has sat for 5 years but fired up first try when i put a new driver side battery. secondary battery sits at 12.4v after charging it but primary wouldnt hold a charge. First drive, the car would approach redline at 30 mph, but after like 2 minutes, it fixed itself. Then i had the dreaded unlocking/locking of the TC around 45-55 mph. I did the @W-T ground and alternator wire relocation and now it does not like to shift or lock the converter when im on the highway. At 60 ish mph rpm is at 2500. I did the APPS reset after waiting a few hours with the battery disconnected and hooking them back up. Unplugged and replugged the PCM as i read somewhere that it helps in some cases. Transmission fluid looks to be nice and red in color. i hear these transmissions are kinda junk but i dont mind tearing into it as im pretty mechanically inclined. I just do not want to start wasting money at buying parts that i do not need. Looking forward to getting some insight. Thanks. 

 

Forgot to mention, i also have 0 codes other then the block heater which is disconnected as i live in California. Not sure why they are disconnected, but does it harm anything?

Block heater is optional in Southern states just the cord id just left out typically.

 

As for batteries and disconnecting will do nothing. No way to reset any software or data. Just need to turn the key off count to ten. Start again it will be a fresh reboot.

 

So you done the W-T ground wire mod. Double check your work again make sure it working correctly. As for the TQ lock issue you might check the ohms at the PCM plugs for the lock up solenoid for a open connection or possibly a damaged pin? If the solenoid ohm reading is open then track your wiring back and possibly the solenoid in the transmission is bad.

 

Now as for the alternator blue wire will be hot +12V after tach signal is sensed. If there is no power on the blue wire there might not be trigger to turn on the trans power relay.

13 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Block heater is optional in Southern states just the cord id just left out typically.

 

As for batteries and disconnecting will do nothing. No way to reset any software or data. Just need to turn the key off count to ten. Start again it will be a fresh reboot.

 

So you done the W-T ground wire mod. Double check your work again make sure it working correctly. As for the TQ lock issue you might check the ohms at the PCM plugs for the lock up solenoid for a open connection or possibly a damaged pin? If the solenoid ohm reading is open then track your wiring back and possibly the solenoid in the transmission is bad.

 

Now as for the alternator blue wire will be hot +12V after tach signal is sensed. If there is no power on the blue wire there might not be trigger to turn on the trans power relay.

Got around to messing with it after work and got a bit further. Transmission was stuck in limp mode and no power was going to the transmission harness pin 1. I have 14v at the blue wire off the alternator. swapped relays and nothing so i jumped the relay. it started to row through all the gears until it kept unlocking and locking the converter. i then did the ohm check and my multimeter said open. should i order a new solenoid and drop the pan? If yes, is there anything else that i should replace/do while im in there? thanks

 

Update. Replaced all the transmission solenoids with the wiring harness, adjusted the bands, and it has fixed the limp mode. Looks like it runs much better, but at 70 mph it still bucks a little bit like it wants to unlock the converter. Im going to redo the ground/power clamps on the battery and see if that helps. If not, would it be safe to assume i need a new alternator? 

Use military style terminals then used copper crimp ring terminals. That way when the lead terminal get damaged you can just unbolt the rings and change a terminal fast and easy.

 

Do NOT get those part store terminals where you expose copper and clamp to the terminal. Those will fail quicker being the copper strain of the cable will oxidize faster and being exposed to the acid vapors it will create a weak connection faster. Either solder on the copper ring terminal or get the proper crimp tool for crimping on the ring terminals typically the tool is a small hydraulic press.

 Have you checked for ac noise in the charging system? I see you did the w-t ground mod but did you take a reading before and after? Just curious. 

 Also @Mopar1973Man, would you have a pic of the military style battery terminal you mention above? I've been considering installing new ones on mine as well. Thanks.

military spec top post battery clamp

 

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Use military style terminals then used copper crimp ring terminals. That way when the lead terminal get damaged you can just unbolt the rings and change a terminal fast and easy.

 

Do NOT get those part store terminals where you expose copper and clamp to the terminal. Those will fail quicker being the copper strain of the cable will oxidize faster and being exposed to the acid vapors it will create a weak connection faster. Either solder on the copper ring terminal or get the proper crimp tool for crimping on the ring terminals typically the tool is a small hydraulic press.

 

I did use the military style crimps. Crimped them and soldered the wire in there. Took a while but it looks much cleaner and more servicable in the future.

 

7 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Have you checked for ac noise in the charging system? I see you did the w-t ground mod but did you take a reading before and after? Just curious. 

 Also @Mopar1973Man, would you have a pic of the military style battery terminal you mention above? I've been considering installing new ones on mine as well. Thanks.

I did not take a reading before, but after it was still not looking good. I disconnected the alternator plug and went for a drive and it still did the lokcing unlocking at highway speeds. 

So far ive done:

WT mod

grounded PCM to chassis

cleaned the chassis grounds

Military style battery terminals

all 3 transmission solenoids with harness

adjusted bands

apps reset

fluid is correct level in neutral on flat ground

 

Next thing i think that i will try would be to hook up a multimeter to the PCM for tcc lockup and see if it disengages at highway speeds. If that looks good, ill prbably go and get a guage to check transmission pressure. Looks like worst case ill be ordering a converter and building the trans lol. 

 

If you drove the truck with the alternator disconnected and it still does it then you can rule out AC noise.  Most likely a failing lock up convertor disk.  Test right away; a catastrophic failure could take out the rest of the trans with clutch material debris.