While I was out in CA for a truck show at my buddies ranch, I got into a conversation with a gent on his 12 valve where it was starting to get hot over time.  Another guy suggested some add on kit that pushed more coolant to the rear 2 cylinders.  Question for the group her is this:  is this worth the add on?  If it IS, I want to make sure to account for this in my build NOW while I can move things around vs. after teh build is done and ends up being a mjor issue.  ANd if it IS worth it...who might sell this kit?  I think this might be for RV aplications?

 

maybe this?

https://puredieselpower.com/Cummins/Dodge-Ram-5.9L-6.7L-Cummins-Engine-Parts/94-02-cummins-cooling-kit-improves-coolant-flow-to-cylinder-6.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqKXny6vJhQMVxDjUAR2TAgDmEAQYAiABEgI2rfD_BwE

 

Edited April 17, 20241 yr by PilotHouse2500

Strange your going cooler when I'm going hotter and using 200°F thermostat in Beast. More I added heat the better the efficiency and quieter the engine. Optimal intake temperature is 80°F to 140°F. Then I'm running 200°F to 220°F coolant temperatures and timing is 24° to 26° at 2,000 RPM. Remember being I'm popped 320bar I'm a few degrees retarded.

 

Colder seems to require more timing and also the thermodynamics will shed more of your power into cold coolant jacket. Strange part even with the hotter coolant I'm still 30°F cooler in engine oil showing I'm not sheding much cylinder heat at all.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm a few degrees retarded.

 

Thanks for being honest, but you could scare away some newcomers to the site.

 

- John

Edited April 17, 20241 yr by Tractorman

Is it worth it?  I don't know.  How many rear freeze plugs have you heard of blowing out due to heat in the rear cylinders.  May be a problem with the lack of coolant pressure release during high RPMs along with some other underlying issue like weak freeze plugs.

Edited April 18, 20241 yr by JAG1

Yah, I really don't know if I need to worry about it.   I'm not planning on pulling much load really and it's pretty flat around here.   Was just wondering your inputs on this before paint.   Appreciate the feedbacks!

Keep your eye on the EGT when pulling the long hills and downshift when needed. 

If it was a 24V... Quadzilla would be a huge help being you could build a towing tune that is a bit more retarded so the turbo is kept spooled more. That being said when you set up the pump timing don't advance much maybe like 14° BTDC then that would keep the EGTs down. 

 

Now on the 24V I'm going build a towing tune basically what I said that is more retarded in the low RPM to bring launching power then create a small advance cruise realm but very little because excessive advance timing with boost is a good way to blow head gaskets.

 

Either was the basic concept is there for either old school P-pump without dynamic timing and 24V with dynamic timing. Both styles still run on the same rules, retarded timing puts more expanding gases into the turbine on the turbo, more advancement burns more in the cylinder, boost is decreased, being there is less expanding hot gases being the was all consumed in the cylinder as work.

 

The topping on it all. Watch your engine oil temperature. If your oil temperature is lower than coolant your not sweating heat off in the cylinder walls the coolant stays cooler and more heat is removed from the engine oil. A little bit of logging data or just watching oil temps and finding the sweet spot for a P-Pump is challenging to say the least.