Pulled the truck into the garage to replace some lights. When I tried to start it the WTS light was flashing and the truck would only crank and not fire. I tried pulling codes and got nothing. I disconnected the batteries for a few minutes and nothing changed. I unplugged the Quadzilla and the WTS light functioned as normal. The truck started right up but instantly idled at 1200rpm and then went into 3cyl idle mode. I checked my idle control switch and it’s in the off position. My throttle is also unresponsive(Timbo). Thanks to my low stall converter I was able to get the truck out of the garage and back into its parking spot. When I parked it the idle dropped to 900rpm and still no response from pedal. I assume I need to do an apps reset due to disconnecting the batteries. Could the quad really be the cause of all this? I plan on doing the reset tomorrow and completely unplug the quad just to see if it runs stock.

Got both turbos removed today and will be taking them in to get resealed while I figure out new drain lines. While I was in there I cleaned all the grounds and inspected the harness on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They all looked good except the one on the PCM had a little touch of green on the wire so I will most likely replace that one. I’m also unplugging and plugging all the connections as well. Would it be a good idea to smear some dielectric grease on the grounds? I did check a few on the other side before I ran out of steam. I off work this week so I will get out there again later.

22 minutes ago, Sycostang67 said:

Would it be a good idea to smear some dielectric grease on the grounds?

Yes. Anything to prevent oxidation from happening.

More good news, just got my Quad module back from testing and it’s toast. There’s $800 I don’t have. I can’t wait to see how the truck runs on stock tuning with all the other mods if I ever get this ecm issue sorted out. My S475 is being rebuilt and they at least verified it was due to the drain hose not flowing well enough. The S357 they said was fine and needed nothing. That’s still $500 for the rebuild and $200 for new drain lines plus whatever having the ecm rebuilt a second time will run me. 🫣. The last 10 trouble free years of operation are all catching up to me.

Got my turbos reinstalled, unfortunately neither of the drain kits worked so there’s $200 down the drain. I did manage to get a nice fat 7/8” drain on the big one with parts I had purchased last year but wasn’t sure would work. I’ve gone through all the grounds and the harness and found nothing wrong. I guess I’ll call ACS on Monday and see if they want to try again with my ecm, otherwise it will cost a lot more to have someone else try and fix it.

Syco, you are going through a rough patch. It sucks when things fail in that manner. Yeah, you are going to have to make that call again and get it fixed to use your truck. I'm super curious about the test results and what happened.

After some thinking and talking to the wife, I’ve decided to send the ecm to someone else. I think the problem with ACS may be that their repair is based solely on the information I give them. The shop that fixed my turbos recommended a place they use out of Texas. I called them today and they test and check the entire unit. Just found out today my daughter can’t take drivers ed for a few more months so I’m gonna use the money we saved for that to get it done.

I hope they find what the problem is. Please let us know how it works out with this ECM repair shop so we can update the article "List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Rebuilders" in the 24 Valve 2ed generation engine section.