I used a flushing kit.. you know the kind where you put the T-fitting in the heater hose and then connect a garden hose.After running a bottle of radiator cleaner for a day, I drained and flushed as directed with heater on high.My question is this: while flushing, does the water really cycle through the entire system? I ask because it never really gets hot , and I'm assuming the thermostat never opens.So I'm gonna run straight water for a day, then drain again (maybe do that twice over a couple days)then add my distilled water/antifreeze.Anybody see any problem with this?Thanks, John

do you remove the thermostat and all the hoses and flush it for a long time?that is the best way..you know what...i think there is some you tube videos on doing this:thumbup2:sure someone else will chime in with there 2 cents.

The heater core is part of the engine circulating part. Water circulates through it whether or not the thermostat is open so this is a good way of flushing it. Trying to flush with say, the top radiator hose, would then face the thermostat problems.

Make yourself a "Costa Rica stat" out of an old one. Just gut it leaving only the gasket part.

Ummm... My simple way...

:thumbup2:THAT'S WHAT I AM TALKIN' BOUT RIGHT THERE!!!!!!!!!!

Same method I've used since day one... My block is rather clean still no corrosion yet, radiator is like new, and all I do is pull both up and lower hose from the radiator. Flow baby flow...

Same method I've used since day one... My block is rather clean still no corrosion yet, radiator is like new, and all I do is pull both up and lower hose from the radiator. Flow baby flow...

10-4 on that again!!

Just for the fun fact... This is where my water comes from to flush the block and for reloading the coolant / water mixture... I know a lot of people say only distilled water... 9 years later still absolutely clean...

Is the hose going right into the t-stat housing?t-stat housing is not quite as accessible on the 12v. Can't say for sure because I never opened it, but i think I have to remove alternator bracket, then it looks like the t-stat sits horizontal. (i think)As long as the T-fitting method works, I'll probably stick with that.I do have another question ... I think my valve cover gaskets are leaking....but that's for another post.

In that case just replace the housing cover without the t-stat to run your water through... Another way to do it is take the t-stat out, replace the housing and upper hose but leave it disconnected from the radiator. Leave the lower hose hooked up place your hose in the radiator filler hole and start and let run the water pump will draw the water through the system and back out the upper hose...

sweet !!!!

The 12v t'stat is horizontal and a smaller diameter also. If you do pull it you will have lots of room for a garden hose. You will need to pull the upper bracket for the alternator to access the three bolts for the t'stat though.

oh no there is no drain on the radiators ? you kidding me right I was gonna do that next weekend.

oh no there is no drain on the radiators ? you kidding me right I was gonna do that next weekend.

Yea there is. It is on the drivers side on the back of the radiator. It is only a small drain that uses 3/8" tubing. Maybe drain the antifreeze with the drain then pull the lower hose (at the radiator) if you want to flush the system.

Yea there is. It is on the drivers side on the back of the radiator. It is only a small drain that uses 3/8" tubing. Maybe drain the antifreeze with the drain then pull the lower hose (at the radiator) if you want to flush the system.

that sounds better now I can go buy come antifreeze for next weekend's project, this will be my first time changing antifreeze in a diesel which means long wait till coolant bubbles out etc. I use a easy fill funnel that just hooks to the radiator cap and you let the car run till antifreeze blows out all air while bubbling wonder how long I have to wait on the truck next weekend

wonder how long I have to wait on the truck next weekend

Shouldn't have to wait long. On the 12v there is a hose that bypasses the t'stat that works well for bleeding the block. Not sure on the 24 valve though. I seem to recall there is a pipe plug close to the front of the head that can be removed to bleed the air.

ok, flushing is done, and new antifreeze added, but I hear water flowing through my heater core.seems to go away after a few minutes driving but returns again after truck sits a while.I see ,from earlier posts, references to bleeding air off,..... what do I need to do for that?

John, that depends on how much driving you are doing. Have you gotten it warm enough to have the t'stat open a few times? That should be enough to get all the air out. If not look for a pipe plug that you can loosen right around the t'stat. I believe you can use a 3/8" ratchet to unscrew the plug.

what kind of sealant do ya use on that pipe plug?i use teflon tape on stuff ...but how about on this?

I normally just pull a heat hose off the head so the air can be bleed out of the system... As for sealants I rarely use any sealant on the engine if I do use a sealant I use very little...