Hello all, I am new to this site and wanted to kick something around maybe get some feedback and troubleshooting help.

When i would turn on the truck, i would usually let it idle for awhile. I would put it in “D”, push on the gas, the truck would start to travel, than it will suddenly get the case of the "dead pedal" and then kick into gear. This started in a sporadic fashion. It then led to a daily ritual to get to work having to rev-up the engine in order for the truck to move. I have briefly explained below how I got to this point.

The beginning of this story is as follows:

I initially replaced the fuel lift pump when I first got the signs of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the engine stalling out with my check gages notification on the dash (5 years ago). I replaced the lift pump, the problem went away for about 2 years (no codes). The white smoke eventually came back, so I replaced the lift pump again and the white smoke went away again and lasted for 2 years (no codes). I replaced it with a third and changed out the filter (1 year)(no codes). I finally got the case of the dead pedal and replaced my VP44 at 189,000 miles (figured it was time since I did not get any codes and read bluechip diesels overview). I installed the VP44 and finally got a companion code P1693 when i tried to start it up. I finally pulled the codes from the PCM and got the P0122 low voltage APPS code. I replaced the original APPS with a TIMBO and I now I have intermittent dead pedal. I also have the loss of power like if I am towing something at take-off. I punch the gas violently than the truck finally starts to sputter and then go away and begin to function properly and picks up speed. On the interstate, the truck runs fine once I start traveling at a constant speed. This behavior only occurs initially at rest or when I slow down and then punch the gas.

I have questions that may or may not relate to my problems, which are as follows:

[*]When i replaced the VP44, did i somehow take it off its timing?

[*]Does this mean my ECM is the culprit and not the VP44?

[*]Can i rule out the transmission due to not pulling any load?

[*]Did i purchase a bad OEM VP44?

When I installed the TIMBO Apps, I smelled burnt plastic that eventually went away. I am attributing it to that new plastic smell. I also noticed that when I hooked up the voltmeter, I got a reading of .510. I followed the instructions and when I turned back to ½ a turn as instructed, I ended up at .510 again, is this right? (the original apps has .521 VDC) Do I need to set it at .521, .498, or leave it at .510?

I have recently replaced one of the batteries (drivers side), but still have the original battery on passenger side. Can it be related to the problem that I have? Do I need to replace that battery as well?

Any and all comments are welcome. I thank you for your feedback in advance.

is it still running? does only run when you spray it with the carb cleaner or do you just have todo that to start it?

I wouldn't spray any kind of flamable material in the intake... As ISX has shown to us the grid heater can get above 500*F and could ignite most all flamable materials in the intake tract with explosive force (possible). If you got injection line loosen they should spray like a power washer while cranking not dribbling on the manifold. If it only dribbling then there is more air in the system yet. Because when a injection pump is primed up it will produce right around 4K to 5K PSI and yes it looks exactly like a power washer under the hood...

dripley, yes, it is running. It hasn't given me any problems starting up since friday. any ideas? Mopar1973man, yes, it looked like a power washer had been under the hood. All,I have eliminated the TIMBO Apps Sensor. I am getting all the correct voltages. I am at square one again. I am now noticing a strange sound coming from under the hood. It kind've sounds like those ticket eating machines at chuck-e-cheese. Am i just paranoid and think everything is wrong with my truck? Any feedback would be appreciated, including any comments regarding my state of

Any additional feedback? Anything else i need to check or should check?

--- Update to the previous post...

BTW, i am still having dead pedal issues.

Hmmm... If the Timbo's APPS is installed and working properly then it going to most like be a Injection pump problem... But I hate point a finger at something without a for sure bet... If there was a injection pump error code I would run with it... But so far nothing...

Did the ECM go bad? It would not throw a code correct? How do i check it? I pulled a wiring diagram from GENO's Garage. I noticed that there are some datalink relays between the ECM and the vp44. Is there anybody out there that is familiar with how they communicate?

Here is the wiring for the ECM and VP44...

There is only 1 power supply relay located in the PDC... But if this relay fails it will throw a P1689 code...

If the ECM fails it typically throws a P0606 code....

If you can find a Cummins Shop that has a cheater box that plugs into the VP44 it will isolate the VP44 by itself and allow you to start the truck and select idle or high idle mods. So that a way of testing the VP44 without a ECM present...

As for testing a ECM the only way I know is to replace it...

i just went thru the ecm thing about 3 months ago. i had all kinds of low and high voltage codes on almost every sensor on the engine and it never thru the code for the ecm until i had it rebuilt. i had to send it back to get it rebuilt again. they fixed under warranty, but i sat around for 5 weeks until i got it back. it works fine now, but the quality of the rebuild is in question. at least i have a 5 year warranty.

do you think that was your problem? do you still get dead pedal? I think its a computer communication problem. The two computers need to be sync'd. Do you know any diesel techs that can confirm this? I was told the ECM needs to be re-programmed so that it can communicate with the VP44, due to the new fueling standards for emissions. How much of this is true?

I think he just needed the noise isolator.

do you think that was your problem? do you still get dead pedal? I think its a computer communication problem. The two computers need to be sync'd. Do you know any diesel techs that can confirm this? I was told the ECM needs to be re-programmed so that it can communicate with the VP44, due to the new fueling standards for emissions. How much of this is true?

dripley, Did you get a code? How did you know that your ECM went bad? Has anyone ever looked into how the ECM communicates with the other components?

dripley, Did you get a code? How did you know that your ECM went bad? Has anyone ever looked into how the ECM communicates with the other components?

I finally had the chance to do some research on the net. I found this thread on DTR where this guy gave direction on how to check the ECM using an Analog meter. My ECM is okay according to his direction. Additionally, i cleaned the grounds next to the battery, man that was pretty bad. I also cleaned the ground at the PCM. I unplugged the PCM harnasses to check for corrosion, which i found them to be okay. I now have the abs light and brake light on. I peformed the above tasks after i checked the ECM and unhooked the batteries. Any ideas?

I was under the impression you should never use an analog meter to test ECM, ECM related circuits, and anything under the voltage regulator?

:doh:Where did you hear that from?

DVOM's with 10 megohm impedance are recommended when testing low-current circuits. This is necessary to limit the effect the unit might have on the component or circuit being tested. From what I've been told, analog units when testing in parallel will cause a spike when removed, thus damaging the circuit integrity because of the lower impedance analogs have compared to digital metersThis is an example of why they install a spike suppressor, aka Diode or one-way check valve on A/C clutches. It absorbs or re-directs the spike from a collapsing magnetic field, such as when the clutch is switched off. This spike suppressor prevents damage to voltage sensitive components, ECM being the major one.I have yet to use an analog in anything I test for that reason. Except for 12 volt application, like exterior lights and such. Test light comes handy for that.

I looked at my history and i did not get the ECm check from DTR. i got the information from ECMtogo website, which had the following information on diagnosing ECM functionality (insider tip for chrysler vehicles), which is as follows:

First assess your symptoms.

Is your car starting and running, but stalls or seems to not idle right.

If so, is the check engine light illuminated MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on intermittent or all the time?

If so, what are the MIL diagnosis codes? Try pulling ECM and looking and smelling for burns. Have your ECM tested to be sure it is functioning properly. If the ECM is bad, have it repaired or replaced with known remand or new unit. see www.ECMtogo.com

If ECM is OK, then follow the error codes it gives, and check the appropriate malfunction (i.e.: check engine light coded you had bad oxygen sensor, try unplugging it and restarting car to see if any change in running or the MIL. If no change, try putting a known good used unit in, or buy new unit if in your budget.)

Have ECM scanned in car by authorized tech with proper scan tools specific to application (only after installing or verifying you have a good ECM). Most manufactures have specific tools to there equipment even though there are many scan tools that can do basic diagnosis. This scan should show what elements are giving you the problems. There are some ways to check error codes without scan tool. Refer to manual for key to specific application.

This insider tip is for Mitsubishi & Chrysler Vehicles and is quite helpful for diagnosing or testing your ECM. You need a analog volt/ohmmeter, put the testers on pin 1 and pin 10 (top right & bottom left pin) of diagnosis ECM scan cable harness. This harness is inside the cab area, usually in drivers side upper left of drivers kick panel. The sweeping motion left to right means ECM is OK. Sweep right to left means reverse testers to pin 10 and pin 1. A movement to the right without bounce or return means bad ECM.

Many models also have ways to check the MIL codes including Honda, Acura, Mazda etc have an indicator light on the ecm or will illuminate the check engine light in series indicating the first digit then the second digit will follow and the indicators will repeat.

Any comments?

thru all of my problems i could never find any one who could tell me of any way to test the ecm. the local dealer told me to bring it in and they would go thru the process of elimination to find the problem. all i could see was a lot of cash flying out of my pocket. that ende up nhappening any way.

My suggestion would be if you do use an analog voltmeter, test at your own risk. I wouldn't in a million years use one, but that's just me. There's only a few instances in which it would be appropriate to use an analog meter. I'm sure there's a reason behind it that I don't know of yet.Who knows...