Hello all, I am new to this site and wanted to kick something around maybe get some feedback and troubleshooting help.

When i would turn on the truck, i would usually let it idle for awhile. I would put it in “D”, push on the gas, the truck would start to travel, than it will suddenly get the case of the "dead pedal" and then kick into gear. This started in a sporadic fashion. It then led to a daily ritual to get to work having to rev-up the engine in order for the truck to move. I have briefly explained below how I got to this point.

The beginning of this story is as follows:

I initially replaced the fuel lift pump when I first got the signs of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the engine stalling out with my check gages notification on the dash (5 years ago). I replaced the lift pump, the problem went away for about 2 years (no codes). The white smoke eventually came back, so I replaced the lift pump again and the white smoke went away again and lasted for 2 years (no codes). I replaced it with a third and changed out the filter (1 year)(no codes). I finally got the case of the dead pedal and replaced my VP44 at 189,000 miles (figured it was time since I did not get any codes and read bluechip diesels overview). I installed the VP44 and finally got a companion code P1693 when i tried to start it up. I finally pulled the codes from the PCM and got the P0122 low voltage APPS code. I replaced the original APPS with a TIMBO and I now I have intermittent dead pedal. I also have the loss of power like if I am towing something at take-off. I punch the gas violently than the truck finally starts to sputter and then go away and begin to function properly and picks up speed. On the interstate, the truck runs fine once I start traveling at a constant speed. This behavior only occurs initially at rest or when I slow down and then punch the gas.

I have questions that may or may not relate to my problems, which are as follows:

[*]When i replaced the VP44, did i somehow take it off its timing?

[*]Does this mean my ECM is the culprit and not the VP44?

[*]Can i rule out the transmission due to not pulling any load?

[*]Did i purchase a bad OEM VP44?

When I installed the TIMBO Apps, I smelled burnt plastic that eventually went away. I am attributing it to that new plastic smell. I also noticed that when I hooked up the voltmeter, I got a reading of .510. I followed the instructions and when I turned back to ½ a turn as instructed, I ended up at .510 again, is this right? (the original apps has .521 VDC) Do I need to set it at .521, .498, or leave it at .510?

I have recently replaced one of the batteries (drivers side), but still have the original battery on passenger side. Can it be related to the problem that I have? Do I need to replace that battery as well?

Any and all comments are welcome. I thank you for your feedback in advance.

yes, test at your own risk. I just spoke to John with ECM togo and he advised me that a better way to test your ECM is to pay the big bucks:spend: and have an authorized dealer test the ECM. As of right now he said that there are no parts whatsoever, therefore if you have a problem with your ECM, you are SOL . as far as the break light and parking break light, was that due to me unhooking the pcm wiring harnesses? Why would this happen i disconnected the batteries? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Any luck?I don't understand how disconnecting the harness would cause that problem, or if the parking or brake light switch would be tied into the PCM at all. You sure this started after disconnecting the harness from the PCM?

no luck, thanks for asking. yes, as soon as i reconnected the harness, than i reconnected the batteries and made sure everything was still working and the lights just stayed on. Do you think disconnecting the batteries for some time will reset the ECM & PCM? Or do i need to take it in and have them re-program? Additionally, I am beginning to suspect that maybe i have a timing issue with the VP44 i just installed, which is why my dead pedal will not go away. I think if i install a noise filter, my feeling is that it would only put a band-aid on the problem and not fix it completely. I have read in other posts that it fixes the problem, but the problems tend to come back. The noise comes from somewhere or something. Does anybody think that maybe i need to look into replacing the alternator?

That is weird. Have you taken a look at the switch itself? It might be staying closed, thus activating the circuit. Also, check grounds, connections, condition of wires, anything at this point. As far as the noise isolator goes, you answered your own question. I've heard good and bad from them, lasting anywhere from a few months to as long as 2 years all depending on what the actual problem is. It's only a band-aid.I don't know what kind of stator windings are used in our style generators, but a new alternator will only be good until one of the diodes begins to leak and eventually takes out our APPS. Again, installing a noise isolator is a band-aid fix until it gets worse. You need to find out what the main culprit is, as it's giving you hell. :mad::mad:I've heard that when an ECM on these trucks goes bad, it throws an "ECM Failure" code, I believe it's 606. I don't know if it's true or not, but that doesn't mean it won't throw one either. Wish I could be of more help.

ECM code should be more like "666":evilgrin: code, man this little bug is kicking my arse. Do you know where the switches are located? Within the fuse box under hood? or within fuses located on drivers side? Appreciate your feedback

/threads/3101-Brake-lights-stays-on">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3101-Brake-lights-stays-on Try This

what about ABS light?

Bueller?........Bueller?...........Bueller???Fry?

The only thing I know that causes .... If flashing its a parking brake issue. The pedal is not coming all the way back up... If solid you got a hydraulic issues or ABS issue usually with the present too... If the ABS light is also present you got to check your speed sensors... This code will not reset with disconnecting the batteries you must drive the vehicle to reset. More here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm

My truck runs great with the noise filter. If the filter last two years then it will outlast the apps anyway. I am not sure I believe the band aid idea. What if the problem is a lack of grounding? Then it would be a fix and not a band aid. It is a $20 fix. What can it hurt to try? I replaced my entire fuel system trying to fix the dead pedal issue. Nothing worked until I put the isolator on. Your situation seems awfully similar.

:iagree:its an inespensive thing to try. maybe it is a bigger problem, but you can run yourself crazy and spend alot of money chasing problem you might not have. it is worth a shot for $20.

Agreed! For $20 you can't go wrong if it solves the issue. I haven't dealt with the isolator myself personally, but when the isolator doesn't last for very long, then you have got bigger problems. I'm just more the type that believes in going down to the main root of the cause, rather than just guessing, though I have done it. Won't lie there...

I might have found my problem. I was running some diagnostics on the apps harness using the article posted on this forum. I have continuity between ground and blue/white wire. It says to fix short. How do I do that? Doesn't that wire blue/white go back to ecm?Any feedback would be appreciated.

I might have found my problem. I was running some diagnostics on the apps harness using the article posted on this forum. I have continuity between ground and blue/white wire. It says to fix short. How do I do that? Doesn't that wire blue/white go back to ecm?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Basically all you need to do is test each wire from APPS plug to the ECM plug for zero ohm from one point to the other (should show 0 ohms).

Then test again testing for ohms between each wire and ground (should show infinite ohms). If your see flow at this point start looking for harness that has been rubbing the block or sharp edge.

Mike, the s165 on the circuit diagram, is that another cicuirt that ties into it?

Mike, the s165 on the circuit diagram, is that another cicuirt that ties into it?

Mike,Do you know what circuit numbers 1-25 correspond to? Do they correspond to previous circuit diagrams postings? Can you please send me what those circuit numbers correspond to? I thank you in advance.

Someone's lost...

Mike, Do you know what circuit numbers 1-25 correspond to? Do they correspond to previous circuit diagrams postings? Can you please send me what those circuit numbers correspond to? I thank you in advance.

Those are the pin numbers of the ECM... But I was showing the larger wiring map to show the ground from the other sensors that connect at S165... But the other smaller wiring diagram will do for you...

i meant the 1-25 pin numbers on the left. I am just trying to figure out what wires are related to the APPS harness so that i can trace back in case everything is okay within the APPS harness. Than i can move on to the next item that is in common with the S165 and see if there is a short on that connection.