I went to the dealer and had them activate high idle but it doesnt work. I used a 56k ohm resistor that Prowelder sent for testing purposes and the water temp was down around 100 degrees. I believe the resistor is doing its job at fooling the truck into thinking that its 32 degrees outside because the grid heater took along time to go out in 60 degree weather. MY ultra-gauge shows me that my tps reads 0.00 for the most part but every now and then it will jump up to 0.39 for a few seconds so im thinking this could be the problem. I have a Timbo apps thats only about a year old and I never really could get all the readings to line up like Tim told me to but he said it really didnt matter if it didnt have a delay in throttle responce. Question is, what do I adjust and how do I adjust it?

you plugged the resistor into the IAT plug right? not the sensor?

Something is either cancelling it...

[*]Brake being pressed

[*]Engine coolant above 170*F

[*]Transmission in gear (Auto)

[*]Movement detected (>1 MPH)

[*]Throttle above idle position

The throttle need to been showing a ground signal on the idle validation pin to the ECM for high idle to show. Pin #6 should show a ground signal. But pin #2 should be open.

I am plugging it into the wire not the sensor. The truck is in park without touching any pedals. I called Timbo and he told me to turn the little screw on the throttle back 1/2 turn. I did that and when the water temp gets down I will test it again. The resistor is doing its job because my IAT is 14 degrees.

Just like how you did the voltage adjustment you used the paper clip on the plug... Just check to see if there is a ground signal present on idle validation pin.

thats a neat trick Mike!!!

You lost me Mike, please kindergarten it up for me. Do I use a voltmetor to check? How will I know its showing a ground signal?

This is where the old school "Adjust the APPS sensor to match the voltage" bites you... It all about the idle validation signal...

--- Update to the previous post...

Ok... DVM is used the same way but put your black lead on the clip (in Pin #6) and the positive lead on positive terminal you should see +12V at idle and 0V at throttle...

I just cranked it again and the coolent was about 120 but now the tps is showing 0.78 and 1.?? at idle. I am going to go find the voltmetor and give it a try.

--- Update to the previous post...

Got off the phone with Tim and we are both confused now. With the volmetor stuck into pin 3 with the key on it reads 0.64 and the ulta-gauge tps reads 0.39. When the voltmetor reads a little higher the ultra gauge reads 0.00. Something isnt right with it for sure but Tim is gonna check his truck out tomorrow and compare it to mine. Man, I wish some of you (Mike or Winslow) lived closer to me.:banghead:

2 Diagnostics to try... /threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=p0122">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=p0122 /threads/2557-P0123-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-High">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2557-P0123-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-High These 2 test will validate the wiring to the APPS and ECM.

Also want to add, Tim told me to unplug the apps sensor from the harness and said it should crank and idle but know throttle responce. I did that and it revved up to 2000 before I could kill it.

Hmmm... You might check over your wiring for a short. I know from past experiences that yes if the APPS is unplugged it will just sit and idle. (0 Volts) But for some reason the APPS sensor line is seeing more than 0.6 volts...

Got it figured out. The previous owner had a ground wire coming from pin #3 on the apps sensor and it was causing the tps to not read 0.00. I guess they were trying to solve the torque convertor lock & unlock problem. All is good and high idle is working.

sweet great to hear!!!

Got it figured out. The previous owner had a ground wire coming from pin #3 on the apps sensor and it was causing the tps to not read 0.00. I guess they were trying to solve the torque convertor lock & unlock problem. All is good and high idle is working.

Always hate when people hacked up electrical to try to correct problems. I should ask Timbo to create a extra lead in his patch cord for ground... (TQ Conv lock up issue)

New problems, drove up the road and pulled somebody with my winch and the truck wouldnt go into high idle but it would idle about 1k and kinda go up and down. It acted the same with the forced high idle activated or off. Drove the truck home and it was idleing high and I noticed the tps was jumping around again. This thing makes me think crazy:cry:

You might double check that wiring again...

I think my alternator is getting weak. The other day I was leaving for work in the morning and the check gauges light flashed a few times coming out of the driveway, I looked at my volts and they were about 12. I didnt think that was right so I have been watching it ever since and when im driving they stay above 14 but when im slow down and idle they drop below 14. I never noticed it doing this before and the check gauge light hasnt come back on.

Didn't you have battery problem earlier and replaced just one battery?

Is there a manual high idle kit I can buy somewhere? Plug and play maybe. I would like to have this but cant seem to find one.

Yes, prowelder on here sells them. I got mine from him and got this problem fixed for the most part.