My 2002 HO cummins had a catch can off the oil breather on the front of the engine. I was sick of forgetting to empty it, then dripping all over my driveway, or spilling when changing. I just extending the hose down past my axle. It coated everything down stream of it with crud, but it seemed to work (only dripped a little). Last summer I nearly overheated when towing and I'm blaming the problem on oil vapor getting sucked into the radiator (I read this happens with the stock setup). I've looked at the different options available to get rid of the crankcase vapor and I want to try an evacuation system. I like this because the vapors stay vapors and exit with the exhaust, no drip, no catch can to drain. Also, the vacuum on the crankcase increases with load/rpm.

Crankcase Evacuation.docx

there is a company out there that sells a oil catch can kit for our trucks. I think the companys name is Jaz but i just went to ebay and bought a generic oil catch can and then just got some fittings at the locat hardware store then you just drain it with the drain on the bottom of the can. The one i bought looked similar to this other than its an aluminum can.

I like the evacuation kits because you don't have a catch can to forget to drain/overflow on your driveway. And keep in mind the vapors from that catch can go somewhere, wherever they go they'll gunk it up..... unless it's out with the exhaust or some how otherwise routed away from any cool surfaces. The evac kits pull a slight vacuum on the crankcase. Running a crankcase under vacuum has benefits of it's own. I'm not sure how much of a vacuum the evac kits produce, but the rule of thumb max is about -14 in Hg.... I don't think the evac kits come close to that, so I bet these benefits are barely worth the note. There are a lot of options for catch cans..... jegs, summit, morosso, etc. Or make your own. If I went the catch can route I'd want a level sight/gauge. http://www.aaronreedbaker.com/oil.html http://www.42draftdesigns.com/categories/products/catchcans.html http://www.teammfactory.com/oil-catch-can http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=breather+tank

when I made my catch-can setup on my 500hp WRX, I actually made a drain in the bottom that fed back into the block, recycling the vapored oil..

i have a complete catch can setup and i figured with as little of oil that it drains i should be ok draining it every oil change. around 3k or so.

Draining it back to the oil pan is great, but it adds contaminates to the oil. It's not just vaporized oil, it's blow-by from the piston rings. If I was on a 3k or even 5k oil change interval I would probably do the same thing, but I've got an amsoil dual filtration and run synthetic... I change every 20-25k miles. I have some concerns with the using an evac kit. As far as I can see these are used mainly on naturally aspirated american V8 motors.... how will it behave on a turbo diesel? The stock setup, moparman's setup, catch cans, etc. allow the crankcase to operate near atmospheric pressure and never allow any significant positive pressure. Will there be conditions where the exhaust/slash-cut pipe don't pull a vacuum, check valve closes, and pressure is allowed to build in crankcase? Maybe the check valve is only for adverse conditions like a muffler or catylitic converter getting plugged. I need to do some research, but I believe the vacuum will increase with increasing flow velocity in the exhaust pipe and decrease with increasing pressure in the exhaust pipe. I'd like to hook my digital manometer up to the exhaust at different points, maybe even a pitot tube to see what the velocity and pressure is in exhaust at idle, part throttle, full throttle, under load, etc. and coorelate it to the vacuum that could be produced. If my assumptions are correct then the most vacuum would be acheived by inserting the slash-cut pipe into the exhaust a far downstream as reasonably possible... That means a long run from the crankcase breather to the slash-cut pipe, this raises concerns with the vapor condensing out on route (insulating could be a simple solution), then you have liquid (combustable?) pouring into the exhaust system. Ugh, why does it always seem like when I look for answers I get more questions!?

i understand after about 25k i would imagine it would be a little over full, its always good to get out all the questions because at least then you have all the info for an informed decision.

Any kind of catch can I could fill up in the summer time doing firewood hauling... I wish I has pics of last years haul because it required 3 grown men to stand on the side bars to keep the truck up right as I backed into the hole to load up and when I pulled back with a load on my back. I've exceed 20* angle many of times... Mostly forward to back but I try like hell not to get to extreme on the left to right angle.

dang Mopar maybe you should look into a dozer and just push them over and then drag them out!!!

dang Mopar maybe you should look into a dozer and just push them over and then drag them out!!!:lmao:

:lmao:

dang Mopar maybe you should look into a dozer and just push them over and then drag them out!!!:lmao:

As for the dozer its not legal to operate in a National Forest... But my Cummins Skidder is... Well the point I was try to get at is that Dodge produced a problem of the angle... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/tsb-09-002-02.htm So You must be aware of anytime the vehicle is operated at steep angles it will attempt to push oil out that vent. Hence why my design was created as I travel the US natoinal forest collecting firewood I would travel up and down some seriously steep hill sides. At any rate if your not careful you can pump oil out. My truck is not a pavement queen... The only pavement here in my area is the US95 highway in front of the house everything else is dirt roads.

i understand you cant get away as fast with a dozer! but on a more serious note thats quite the SB. I wonder if my truck has this done i will have to go and take a look see.

To the op.I had the same problem.After trying a few things what i came up with was a home made can.It looks like the post#2.I took some exhaust pipe i had laying around 2 1/2 inch.I cut it 7 in long welded a lower cap and welded a nut.Then i put a o ring on a bolt.Thats the drain plug.Then i took more pipe and cut lines in it welded it to the first 7 inches.I tapered it up to put a berather on it.Drilled side holes in it for the factory breather tube.It really was free just took time.It was fun to build.This summer i want another one just a little different.Maybe a little longer?