New to this forum and need some assistance. Recently purchased 02 3500 truck with 188k miles on it. My understanding is the fuel pump should be changed out and relocated due to the heat from the engine. The truck runs fine, but don't won't to screw up the injector pump. What pumps are recommended for this fix and where do you get the best bang for the buck? What are the pros and cons of the kit from Dodge, other than it is too damn expensive? Has anyone had any luck at repairing the rear plastic fender wells with the types of epoxies on the market? Duramix? Automix? What about adding a fuel pressure gauge and where should it located? Thanks from Texas.

I've got to say... I wonder what you been using for a fuel additive that would eat the float off the sender arm??? 8|

My truck is staying pure stock. PERIOD. I continue to be interested in the DDDR pump. If I was going to power mod, I'd not consider it. I want to get the stock lift pump off the truck while I still have an IP. Russ

M73M,I checked out your youtube stuff. Really cool! I will have to check out all the other stuff thats on Youtube that you put in your favorites!The Fass DDRP would be good enough for running Bio fuel. It should have a gear & not a vane pump, but the vane will work.Isn't a 19-20 pressure idle a little high for the IP? :confused: How come you never got interested in making Biodiesel?Dave

I've got to say... I wonder what you been using for a fuel additive that would eat the float off the sender arm??? 8|

I bought this truck 3 months ago, and have no clue what may have been put in the tank before I got it. :confused - djb

2002 ram cummins, cutting out, still idles but no power, kicks in then out? Is this fuel pump issue? Thanks, Kirk

Fuel presure and error codes would tell if it is... :confused: Fule pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm Error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Gauges are so much better... :D http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Brought it to our local garage this morning, he cleared the codes and it hasn't messed up yet so its not showing anything but at the garage I belive it said injection pump timing something or other, the mec. said it was either a busted gear on the injector pump which doesn't make sence it started doing this 3 yrs ago, or a sensor. Ya I know 3 yrs ago? well it would go 6 mos and not do it ??? But now it's doing it quite often yesterday the truck would only go 35 mph. I shut it off and started it back up and it run like there was nothing wrong??? Now I can belive a sensor, cause before all I did was push the clutch in and it went back to normal, now I have to shut it off. You don't know it's doing it until you give er some throttle and there's nothing there. I'm sure the next day or 2 it will do it again and I will get the code. I don't see how they can fix it if it's not broke. Thanks, Kirk

Howdy guys and dolls from Texas. Made the decision to order the fass ddrp and relocation kit with big line from filter to inj. pump. You can get a deal through Vulcan and save some money, Pump is 242, relocation kit. 55, line from filter to inj pump 15. Total 312. That includes free shipping. I think that it is the best decision for a stock truck. Will keep yall posted!

Thanx for the money break down. I wonder how that would compare to an airtex pump, price & performance wise.Dave B)

Howdy guys and dolls from Texas. Made the decision to order the fass ddrp and relocation kit with big line from filter to inj. pump. You can get a deal through Vulcan and save some money, Pump is 242, relocation kit. 55, line from filter to inj pump 15. Total 312. That includes free shipping. I think that it is the best decision for a stock truck. Will keep yall posted!

I think you could do a raptor from AirDog from about the same price... :confused:

Just my 2 cents worth of opinion but if you are gonna spend the money and effort to install a DDRP, especially on a NON stock truck, get the Air Dog or FASS. It is not that much more and it is far and away a MUCH better and capable pump.

OK, thank you Mopar Man, P1693 -0216 and in cold weather it runs normal, been in the 70s + last 2 days and it's messing up I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump, wouldn't have gotten this far with out your help, I'm not a mec. but hate going to the garage. Thanks, Kirk

Well...The imfamous P0216 error code popped... Well the VP44 is wearing out and the timing cam is sticking internally. So basically it will continue to run and function but the power and MPG will start to slide. It like driving a gas engine without timing advancement weights... Doggy... The other thing you'll start to see is the white smoke in the mornings... It gets worse... :wow

So from what your telling me it's not a loss of fuel pressure, I believe you my question is can I fix this myself? or do I need special tools? YOu pretty much hit the nail on the head my miliage has went from 23 down to 17 when it was messing up, then the 3 days it had power ( a differance you could feel it went up to 19.8) and it seems cold weather it runs ok and when it warms up it gets bad??? Haven't noticed the white smoke yet. And what is a vp44??? Thank you,Kirk

And what is a vp44???

Oh... About $1,200 to $1,500 dollars worth of injection pump...

Gee Thanks for making my day!!!! And this would do this one time 3 yrs ago, then go a year and do it twice and finally do what it is doing now another year latter. Why when I shut it off and restart it its fine for the rest of the day?? Not that your not right but to me if it was something mecanical it would just break or quit and turning it off and restarting it wouldn't make it run right again? Edumakete me here!! Thanks,Kirk

I am sure that Mike is 110% right. The vp44 is touchy. It was designed for LSD (Low Sulfur Diesel), not the ULSD (Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel) currently being sold (required)... the sulfur adds lubricity to the fuel... vp44 is "fuel lubricated". The fuel "lift" pumps in these trucks are troublesome & prone to failure. Mike has been championing the use of adding lubrication to the fuel. The best thing to use is 2 cycle oil. There's a thread on the boards about it. I added 1 oz per gallon capacity on the initial dose & each fill up add 1 oz per gallon of fill... it works out to a quart or less per fill. It seems to quiet the engine down, is made to burn clean... If the lift pump goes out it takes out the vp44 injector pump too (no fuel = no lubrication). That's why many guys are replacing the fuel lift pumps. Also a fuel pressure guage is frequently added. Dodge's answer is a pump in the tank, but just like the gas cars, they are troublesome. After market pumps are usually mounted next to the tank for easier pumping. I'm sure the others will add more but those are the basics. I doubt if going to 2 stroke additive would make a difference if you're throwing codes but might keep you alive for a short while. Russ

I too agree with you Russ,A greener solution would be the use of biodiesel. It is commercially available in blends as low as B2. Which is 2% veggie oil. Biodiesel is a cleaner & a lubricant as well. Like Russ stated, the vp44 was designed to run on LSD. Only the 2007& newer vehicles are designed to run on the USLD. Also, these new diesels can't use biodiesel because on the exhaust stroke a squirt of fuel is added to clean the particulate filter. What happens is the unburned fuel can leak past the rings & contaminate the oil. So this vintage Cummins is an excellent candidate for biodiesel. The 12V P7100, or the million mile pump, can run a two tank system which is straight filtered veggie oil. Start & stop on diesel, after the engine is warmed up, switch on the second tank. Also the common rail Cummins can run this as well.Dave :wow

ANother one for ya, I belong to a couple car clubs, the one mec. does everyones carbs he's like 80 and has been a mec all his life, he told me that the loggers used to when they changed there fuel filters would fill them up half way with type A trans. fluid. Anyone ever tried this? Or tried tranny fluid as a cleaner lube?Kirk

ANother one for ya, I belong to a couple car clubs, the one mec. does everyones carbs he's like 80 and has been a mec all his life, he told me that the loggers used to when they changed there fuel filters would fill them up half way with type A trans. fluid. Anyone ever tried this? Or tried tranny fluid as a cleaner lube? Kirk

Not a good idea anymore... :nono The reason being is that the ATF of the 1970's was nothing more than red dyed hydraulic fliud... Today now with ATF+3 and ATF+4 there is all kind of chemical and additives packages dumped into it. Friction modifiers, etc... These chemical packages will have a direct impact on you IP pumps, and injectors... This was the change to 2 cycle oil was developed was to give a clean lubricant without all the additive packages and un-needed things thast ATF has now... Same principal but back to clean lubricant... :thumbsup