On my way to school today I got a pending DTC. I stopped to check it out and got P0500 and p1693. Cleared it and then my ABS light came on. I looked up in my ultragauge to see if i had any other codes and got a P0216. Sounds like p0216 can pop as a result of others coming about. p0500 says theres no vehicle speed signal but I was getting a MPH reading on both my dash and the ultragauge as I was driving. None of this makes any sense... Damn truck!

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Parking brake light also stays on.

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This all sounds familiar, 1genro had this issue

ABS speed sensor failure on the front axle. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm P0216 is a VP44 death code. The advancement cam is not keeping time as desired by the ECM. This can be caused by low fuel pressure.

truck runs fine and everything except for I hear a grinding noise towards the front now when I drive. Could it be bearings or ABS Sensor grinding?

Yea... The front wheel bearings... Jack the front axle up and check both front tire by pushing and pulling on the bottom fo the tire like rocking motion. If there is any movement the bearing are toast. Since the ABS tone ring is inside the bearing so when the bearing wear out the tone ring shifts over out of the view of the ABS speed sensor and fails...

Okay well im preparing to do this then. will I need any special tools other than regular tools? IM checking out the FSM and it says I need a puller, which I dont have..

Okay well im preparing to do this then. will I need any special tools other than regular tools? IM checking out the FSM and it says I need a puller, which I dont have..

Somewhere is this pile there might be some information on it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=front+axle

i used a puller on my 02 and only succeeded in ripping the guts out of the the hub assembly. the outer portion of the hub stayed in the steering knuckle and i had to have it pressed out. getting the knouckle offf with that piece of the hub still in there was pita. another method is to loosen but not remove the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle. with the socket and a short extension place the socket over the bolt head and wedge the other end against the axle and have someone turn the steering wheel slowly (engine runnig) and push them out a little at a time swapping bolts frequently. once it is broken loose a puller may get it the rest of the way. i did not try the puller on the second one. another way is to get a BFH and start wailling. a torch is helpful with this method. if the hub assembly is not forzen in there like mine was it is not that hard to do. just takes time.

Jacked it up, pushed and pulled on bottom of tire and found no movement. I then moved the tire and noticed it had a bit of resistance to it. I looked at the pad and rotor and noticed that both are in contact with eachother. I proceeded to give it a few revolutions and noticed a noise that sounds like something is in contact with eachother. Sorry, but I have no automotive experience and air brakes are setup differently than hydraulic brakes. Is the resistance normal? Should the pad and rotor have contact with one another? I haven't jacked up the drivers side and would compare both sides if I had another jack stand around... I know, dumb. My only conclusion to this is my ABS light is being triggered by the speed difference from both front WSS. But it doesn't explain why my parking brake light is also on. I'll try and see if I can get pics. How do I post pics on here for a post anyway?

Jacked it up, pushed and pulled on bottom of tire and found no movement. I then moved the tire and noticed it had a bit of resistance to it. I looked at the pad and rotor and noticed that both are in contact with eachother. I proceeded to give it a few revolutions and noticed a noise that sounds like something is in contact with eachother. Sorry, but I have no automotive experience and air brakes are setup differently than hydraulic brakes. Is the resistance normal? Should the pad and rotor have contact with one another? I haven't jacked up the drivers side and would compare both sides if I had another jack stand around... I know, dumb. My only conclusion to this is my ABS light is being triggered by the speed difference from both front WSS. But it doesn't explain why my parking brake light is also on. I'll try and see if I can get pics. How do I post pics on here for a post anyway?

if your rotor needs turning it is possible they might contact each other when the high spot goes past the pad. they should not be in constant contact though. there is nothing in the caliper to pull the pads off of the rotor like a return spring in drum brakes. your caliper might be sticking and need rebuilding if it is dragging. the bearing could be dried out and causing the noise also. when mine went the abs light came on but i dont remember wether the brake light came on. there was not a lot of movement in the wheel when i shook it either,. but the bearing was gone and when i replaced it all of the lights went out. problem solved when the other side went i had no warning, the abs and brake light came on and the bearing failed within 10 seconds. made for interseting driving that last half mile home. failure of that bearing was quite obvious the other was not. while coming out to OK 4 weeks ago my abs and brake light both came on. no codes were generated. it turned out that when i did my front brakes i did not properly attach the wire from the sensor to one of the brackets that hold it a way from the wheel and it rubbed thru the insulationto the wires. i got it away fron the wheel and every thing is ok until i get home to fix it. you could check your wires and be sure they are not cut or chafed somewhere. i would have to lean toward the wheel bearing, it will make noise and cause resistance to the wheel turning. it will cause the abs and the brake light to setif not reading the tone ring properly. on my 02 the brake light blinks when the parking brake is applied, but came on steady when the abs came on.

Well, found out it was the drivers side bearing. got as far as taking off everything except the nut holding on the hub. Don't have the right socket. Repair delayed due to a freakin socket...

1.5" Inch socket if I remember right...

Just wanna say thanks to dripley and moparman for their help. I had called up my local matco distributor yesterday and overnighted the puller to get the hub off. I'll see how well that goes once it arrives. In the meantime I'm gonna try and get that nut off. My dad has got a set off bigger sockets, which were the ones I was using yesetrday. I tried every single one and it appeared as if the socket 1 5/8" was the only one that would fit but wouldn't fit completetely around the nut. I'll try 1 1/2" like mopar said and go from there. I think I know what caused the bearing to go bad. I was pulling out of a tight parking lot downtown after having lunch with some friends and had to pul forward and pull reverse a series of times in order to get out. In doing that, I had the steering wheel turned all the way to the right and as I made my final forward pull to get out I gave it a little acceleration. As soon as I gave it a little acceleration, I heard this loud pop that did not sounds good. After pulling out I got out of the truck and looked under the truck at every steering compononet and everything else. I thoughta linkage popped out or something but found no evident defects during my inspection. Hopped on my truck and left. Then a couple weeks later wa la, there you have it; a defective wheel bearing!!

ABS speed sensor failure on the front axle. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm P0216 is a VP44 death code. The advancement cam is not keeping time as desired by the ECM. This can be caused by low fuel pressure.

Moparman, how do you know the DTC P0500 is a front axle sensor and not a rear axle sensor? The code states no vehicle speed sensor is present; this can be from either or and shouldn't necessarily rule out the rear axle sensor right? I'm only asking because my ABS and brake light are staying lit after having replaced the drivers side hub/bearing. The assembly came with the integrated abs sensor and was simple plug and play. As for the passenger side hub/bearing and ABS sensor, I have no clue if it's got anything to do with what's going on. How likely is it both unit's go out at the same time -- highly unlikely, I think. But there's always that possibility, I know. On the other hand, I believe to have a functional rear axle speed sensor as my speedometer works just fine. I have tried eliminating every possible source for what's going on. If my speedometer is functional, then the only thing left in terms of sensors is the passenger side sensor, as much as I hate to say it. Other than that, could it be a defective ABS module/computer?

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Moparman, how do you know the DTC P0500 is a front axle sensor and not a rear axle sensor? The code states no vehicle speed sensor is present; this can be from either or and shouldn't necessarily rule out the rear axle sensor right?

Because if the rear axle sensor is out the speedometer is dead or doesn't respond properly in other words the speedmeter pops up after 10-20 MPH.

I'm only asking because my ABS and brake light are staying lit after having replaced the drivers side hub/bearing. The assembly came with the integrated abs sensor and was simple plug and play. As for the passenger side hub/bearing and ABS sensor, I have no clue if it's got anything to do with what's going on. How likely is it both unit's go out at the same time -- highly unlikely, I think. But there's always that possibility, I know.

That was my misfortune too I lost both front sensors at the same time during my wheel bearing change.

On the other hand, I believe to have a functional rear axle speed sensor as my speedometer works just fine. I have tried eliminating every possible source for what's going on. If my speedometer is functional, then the only thing left in terms of sensors is the passenger side sensor, as much as I hate to say it.

Other than that, could it be a defective ABS module/computer?

The only thing left is to go to a dealer and let them use there $6000 DRBIII tool and tell you if the speed sensors are working (or not) and the ABS computer is working (or not). But I'm going to say there is a mis-match in sensors yet. Because if the ABS computer was actually out the speedometer would be dead...

Speed sensor -> ABS computer -> CCD Network -> Instrument panel -> Speedometer

Also remember the ABS/BRAKE light will not reset till the vehicle is moving.

my 2 bearings went out with the abs light coming on within 2 weeks of each other. your other one could be bad also. i am not sure how to test the sensor to see if it is bad. you could check your old sensor wire from the drivers side, check it for damage and if it is ok put it on the passanger side and see what happens. the only way i knew when the first one went on mine was the abs light coming on. the bearing gave no outward sign of being bad. it was intact and solid until i ripped it apart with the puller. it was completly dry though. i have had the p500 code before after spinng my tires on slick pavement or gravel. the code always went a way on its own. i dont know squat about the abs computer. someone else will have to chime in on that one.

Problem solved. Good thing I didn't make the trip to the dealership to check out the light. I saved myself $47 just now. I was actually gonna head out overthere after my trip to the bank.

happy to here you got it fixed. what was the problem?