I have an old fuel pressure gauge, and now replacing it. The existing line connects in the fuel canister with nylon tubing. What is the best way and location to connect new electric gauge sending unit? I was going to try the old location, but not sure if that is the proper location. Read several posts that say on the supply banjo bolt of the VP, and some say as far away from it as possible.I have 98.5 24v, new reman VP, AirDog Raptor 100 LP, and stock fuel lines from canister to VP, 1/2" from tank to canister.Any help will be appreciated, and images would as wellThanks

I used a tapped banjo bolt at the VP and didn't cut off any excess line when I installed it to add the effect of extra distance from the pump. I just coiled it up neatly and zip tied it out of the way. I haven't had any issues since I installed it.

I used the vulcan big line kit and a tapped tee and needle valve to install my mechanical gauge. You could easily install you sender in the same location. The needle valve is barely cracked open to isolate the gauge from the water hammer of the VP. The big line kit would help your fuel flow to the vp instead of the oe stuff.The oe stuff is pretty restrictive.

I just installed an Isspro ev2 electric gauge on my Airdog 100. I did have it in the inlet of the vp before I purchased the Airdog. I used a banjo/snubber bolt to a grease gun hose to my sender but I had needle bounce and sometimes the gauge would quit working. Since I installed it on the Airdog no bounce no problems but don't know if you can on the raptor. A set up like dripley is probably your best bet but for sure change those factory fuel lines.

You should mount the sender as far from the VP44 as possible to reduce water hammer damge to the sender. You'd been better off with a mechaincal gauge because the electric sender tend to lose there accuracy over time and mis-read pressure. Mechanical gauges just never seem to wear out. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects As for tubing I use Air Brake line (Polyon)...

Just be sure you do mount it after your fuel filter, that way you get an accurate reading for what is going into the VP and you will know for sure when your filter is gettting used up. I also second the vote on the polyon that Mopar is using. I have some at home and one day I am going to install it.

I used the vulcan big line kit and a tapped tee and needle valve to install my mechanical gauge. You could easily install you sender in the same location. The needle valve is barely cracked open to isolate the gauge from the water hammer of the VP. The big line kit would help your fuel flow to the vp instead of the oe stuff.[ATTACH=CONFIG]3821[/ATTACH]The oe stuff is pretty restrictive.

Where is the supply line coming from in your image? I attached an image of my fuel filter, and where the old fuel pressure gauge is installed. In your image, is that the big line kit from Vulcan that you have spliced into?

Moparman...what size do I use for the polyon hose?

My filter canister is differant than yours. My supply comes of the bottom , thats why it looks so diffierant. the big line kit just replaces that line no matter where it is. I installed a tapped tee in that line and used a needle valve, barely cracked open to protect the gauge from water hammer. You dont have to install it there, I think where you have yours installed works for alot of folks, we will have to let them pass there opinions though. My canister does not have an outlet like yours. Either way you do it you should be ok as long as you get your reading after the filter.The polyon hose is 1/8".

Thanks for all your help

You are welcom. let us know how it goes.

Moparman...

what size do I use for the polyon hose?

1/8" air brake line...

An update: purchased polyon hose at napa, got a big line kit from Vulcan, also needle valve. Hook it all up, bleeding air out, and the fuel filter canister is leaking where the fuel gauge was installed. Now I can't get it stopped! There are 3 cracks where the gauge line was installed, I posted, on here looking for the fuel filter head assembly, I just need the bracket (I think that is what it is called)

Instaled in the test port... So I would assume you need the filter head assembly might be a salavage yard item if you can find it.

I recently had to make a repair like this. Part was backordered from the factory and we couldn't wait. I removed the cracked housing and cleaned it with brake clean very well. After it dried, I heated the area with a torch to cook the remaining oil out of the cracks, use a fan and respirator because the fumes from heated brake clean is very unhealthy. Take the fan and respirator part seriously, bad stuff. I then added way too much blue loctite to both the housing and the fitting and screwed it in and let it cure for the weekend. Still holding over 60 psi back with no leaks. Might be worth a try.

I used an Ashcroft gauge snubbber att the fuel filter hhead

I recently had to make a repair like this. Part was backordered from the factory and we couldn't wait. I removed the cracked housing and cleaned it with brake clean very well. After it dried, I heated the area with a torch to cook the remaining oil out of the cracks, use a fan and respirator because the fumes from heated brake clean is very unhealthy. Take the fan and respirator part seriously, bad stuff. I then added way too much blue loctite to both the housing and the fitting and screwed it in and let it cure for the weekend. Still holding over 60 psi back with no leaks. Might be worth a try.

I could see that working. Do you actually have 60psi of prssure in your filter canster?

I could see that working. Do you actually have 60psi of prssure in your filter canster?

The repair is on a hydraulic manifold that feeds the oil cooler. Pressure leaves a relief valve at 60 psi and then goes on to the cooler.