My truck has been dead for a few days now and I was referred to this site for better, more useful help, so here goes... I was in the middle of a coolant flush, heater on full blast, truck was idling for maybe 20 minutes, then suddenly sputtered and died. It cranks but will not fire up. Throws a P0234 code for "overboost", however this seems to be irrelevant, as I was driving it unusually hard the night before, to check for oil leaks since I had just changed oil/filter. Anyways, the issue seems to be narrowed down to lift or injector pump, or both. Heres what I've done so far: added 5 gallons to fuel tank, primed pump 8 times, loosened injector line on one of cylinders while cranking and got some fuel to come out. However, even after priming pump, fuel canister is near empty, pointing towards LP. The next issue is figuring out how much, if any, damage is done to VP since this truck has 200k with no service records and I've only owned it 3 weeks. I've been directed toward 2 bluechip articles regarding some testing procedures that I will get to. I was referred here for some extra help and advice without the "pissing matches" on who's right or wrong.Also, when I crank the truck for say... 5 seconds straight, and let the key go, the pump whines pretty loud under me until I pull the key off. Not sure what means, obviously, even though it's making noise, it can't be pumping fuel can it? My canister would be full, but only has maybe an inch of fuel in it. It's a little late to go out and test anything now, but please share any info you might have for me in the meantime. Thanks guys

good to hear. I remeber how much fun it was when I installed my Banks and then later the RV's. Tha fuel drip youare seeing is probably coming from the return line on the back of the head. You have to reach around the back and feel. It has 2 sealing washers on it that wear out. If you follow that line down it goes into a tee and the o rings wear out in it also. You might be abel to tighten them up for now, but replacing them is best.I am curious about the wiring harness. Did youu have to use the adapters on yout map sensor? The gray ones are what came on my harness.

good to hear. I remeber how much fun it was when I installed my Banks and then later the RV's. Tha fuel drip youare seeing is probably coming from the return line on the back of the head. You have to reach around the back and feel. It has 2 sealing washers on it that wear out. If you follow that line down it goes into a tee and the o rings wear out in it also. You might be abel to tighten them up for now, but replacing them is best. I am curious about the wiring harness. Did youu have to use the adapters on yout map sensor? The gray ones are what came on my harness.

Yes I had to use every piece of the MAP sensor harness. You had to separate the two gray pieces from the kit, put on end to the block, the other end to the sensor itself, then plug that into the Edge harness. Good to know about the return line, I was worried something serious might be going on. I'll have to look into that, it seems like continuos fuel loss like that might start to affect mileage.

Correct me if I am wrong guys, but I was under the impression that until you hook up the tap wire on the VP, that you have nothing but level 1 performance. You can change it on the Edge controller to level 3, 4, or 5 and its still not going to do anything more than level 1 without the tap wire.Glad to see it running... just takes a bit of patience and some hand holding from those who have been there before!Joe

Those adapters are for the 2002 MAP sensors which are no longer produced... So you should be able to skip all that extra junk and just plug in without adapters.

Glad you said that - I almost posted it - but I have a 2001 and wasnt 100% sure > AS for being tough to unclip - yes they are a SOB at times if you need to remove them.

From what yall are saying the new MAP sensors have differant connector than the oe. Am I reading this right? If so I would have to have an adapter to use a new one if mine crapped out.

Yes I had to use every piece of the MAP sensor harness. You had to separate the two gray pieces from the kit, put on end to the block, the other end to the sensor itself, then plug that into the Edge harness. Good to know about the return line, I was worried something serious might be going on. I'll have to look into that, it seems like continuos fuel loss like that might start to affect mileage.

If the above is correct, maybe your harness has the right connector if you were using an later date MAP and all you have to do is remove the adapter if yours ever craps out.

Correct me if I am wrong guys, but I was under the impression that until you hook up the tap wire on the VP, that you have nothing but level 1 performance. You can change it on the Edge controller to level 3, 4, or 5 and its still not going to do anything more than level 1 without the tap wire. Glad to see it running... just takes a bit of patience and some hand holding from those who have been there before! Joe

I've driven on levels 3 and 5 so far. There is a noticeable difference between those two in the throttle feel and even the way the truck sounds. So I'm sure the levels still change accordingly, but you just won't have the full effect unless the VP is tapped. Which I may end up trying soon, but for right now, I'm just enjoying having a problem free truck that runs great... much thanks to this forums members who have really helped me out.

All your effecting is the timing curve basically with the wire disconnected.

All your effecting is the timing curve basically with the wire disconnected.

What does that mean? Is that maybe why on level 5, it pulls itself through the gear at certain rpm's even when my foot is steady?

Since the CANBUS connector is hooked up the Edge module still can effect how the timing signal is sent to the injection pump. So when the ECM calls for advancement of timing its passed to the Edge Module and it may or may not modify that signal again increasing timing or not. So the higher in level your going the more aggressive the timing curve is. So level 1 you near stock so setting it on level 5 your getting the aggressive timing curve. But its still got to play by the rules of the ECM.The only thing your missing is the fuel which would of been in the wire tap. Then the Edge Module would be capable of increasing fuel and fuel timing even more. From what I understand of the wire tap it can modify the pulse moving it forward in time or expand it. So once again its gets stronger hence why it goes from only +40 HP to +120 HP with the wire tap because now you don't play by the rules of the ECM but of the Edge module.

I think I'm catching your drift now...lol Seems that pump tap is a little more important than I thought. Now I'm curious and will have to reconsider

I'm a big fan of stealth plates because the wire is not molested and you don't have to worry about a weather tight seal being the tap is done behind the plate tapping into the VP44.

Mike,What do you mean "stealth plates?" and what are we looking for in the above photo? I have hot tapped into the VP wire with my Edge either and now you guys have me curious as well. Have been driving around for 2 years with the Edge set at position 1 and no VP wire, just using it for the codes and fuel pressure info. Joe

It looks as if the plate is screwed on top of the VP44 and apparently somewhere behind it is where the wire is tapped into? Maybe that red wire on top is tapped through to the VP wire. It looks cleaner and more stock-like, I take it that's where it got its name from. Although unfortunately for me, it is too late for my VP wire has already been molested and now has a hole in it with electrical tape wrapped around it... not quite as nice looking as a stealth plate.

It looks as if the plate is screwed on top of the VP44 and apparently somewhere behind it is where the wire is tapped into? Maybe that red wire on top is tapped through to the VP wire. It looks cleaner and more stock-like, I take it that's where it got its name from. Although unfortunately for me, it is too late for my VP wire has already been molested and now has a hole in it with electrical tape wrapped around it... not quite as nice looking as a stealth plate.

Yessir http://www.dieselautopower.com/1050201_p/bd%20stealth%20cover%201050201.htm Its just a clean/controlled way to tap the VP44. Most people who have a juice/comp/quad will tap the vp44 for the extra 60-70 HP. As for your wire - just use some RTV silcone sealant - it will be fine - or shrink wrap (if your careful).

At this point after all the money I've spent I'm just going to tap into the hole I already made and seal it up. Maybe if I had known about the plate when I was in the "spending mood" I would have just tacked it on with everything else, but I'm plenty happy right now to have my truck back on its feet again. Although I must admit, like a true addict, I'm already scoping out my injectors and air intake :evilgrin:So many little things I would like to do yet, from floor mats to bed topper, level kit to 35's... so many plans so little money.

Suggestion: You'd be best to reduce the tire size than increase it also not to install a leveling kit for MPG reasons. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5810-1996-Dodge-Ram-16-17-MPG-is-reality!

Good post. Maybe I will just do a level or something. Maybe not. The rims I have are actually offset a little bit so that tires stick out to match the fender flares which looks pretty awesome and aggressive, but still has stock size tires on it. Maybe I'll just upgrade to some better tires like BFG A/T's or Cooper LTZ's

Good post. Maybe I will just do a level or something. Maybe not. The rims I have are actually offset a little bit so that tires stick out to match the fender flares which looks pretty awesome and aggressive, but still has stock size tires on it. Maybe I'll just upgrade to some better tires like BFG A/T's or Cooper LTZ's

Don't do that and screw up your MPG's... Aggressive tread patterns tend to increase rolling resistance. Then larger/heavier tire increase rotational mass. Like the tire/rims on my truck are 62 pounds a piece. Also like on the 96 Dodge Ram 1500 I found that just cleaning up the nose of the truck and hidding my fog lamp in the grill and putting the air dam back on gain me nearly another +1 MPG. Aerodynamics are extremely important!

Also I found that adding a shell to the bed of the truck gave me .5 to 1 mpg increase.

It all adds up and helps get you down the road on the least $$.

I have found that keeping an eye on your tire pressures also makes a big deal on your mileage. Keeping them on the high side for me works best.

--- Update to the previous post...

I'm a big fan of stealth plates because the wire is not molested and you don't have to worry about a weather tight seal being the tap is done behind the plate tapping into the VP44.

Mike,

Looking at this item, it appears to be just a plate that bolts on the top or side of the VP and then has a wire going down to tap into the trigger wire in the injector pump? Or is there a contact on the stealth plate that makes this contact and the wire goes to the Edge controller?

Am not seeing the advantage to the stealth plate other than it covers the VP and part of the wire.

Thx, Joe

The plate eleiminates tapping the wire on the outside. Mine came from bluechip diesel. It has an allen screw on top at the red wire that screws down and makes contact inside the pump instead of tapping the wire externally. I have heard of warrnty issues on pumps with the wire tapped. Never experianced it though.

Dave,Thanks and now it makes sense. Installed you cannot see the contact and the two places I found the plate for sale did not say squat about how it worked or why.Thx,Joe