I just got this truck about a month ago, and about a week and a half ago, I dropped a valve seat in cylinder #1 and ate up the piston a little.. So now its rebuild time again, previous owner already rebuilt it 100k miles ago.How much is the average hone for these motors?My buddy that helped me pull the head yesterday is a diesel tech, said if moneys tight I can just hone out cylinder #1 and replace the piston and should be fine, is that true?, with all new gaskets etc. I seen a .040 over rebuild kit on pure diesel performance with mahle pistons, everything I believe sept the wrist pins for $1400My buddy will be helping me rebuild it, if I don't move by time I get the funds to do this.. I'll have to pick up a beater car for now cause I'm on foot now.

are the cross-hatch marks still visible in the cylinder walls now? Are there any gouges or scratches in the wall(s)? If not, a simple quick-honing should suffice for new ring seating.

Cylinder one has some scratches minor ones, the rest dont have the cross-marks on them just check, so probably all six need to be honed?

Cylinder one has some scratches minor ones, the rest dont have the cross-marks on them just check, so probably all six need to be honed?

If it were my truck; I'd do it right only once!!! Rather than cheap two or three times!!! Do them all and you'll have a new engine and peace of mind...............and a thinner wallet!!!

Okay, anybody have a idea on what different shops charge to hone out all six.

And for the head when they rebuild the head what all do they do to it?

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Is there any kind of beefed up valve seats out there?

Okay so a local machine shop will bore out my block and deck the top for little under $200, whats to happen if I dont re-balance my crankshaft?, cause the most moneys gonna go to a new Industrial Injection race head from ADP for $2900(the head I want). All input in appreciated, ADP wants 9-10k for a mild build, with coated pistons, cam, balancing, studs. and thats if my heads good.

This is the rebuild kit I plan on getting, what you guys think?

http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/0304-dodge-59l-cummins-common-rail-engine-overhaul-kit-p-32212.html

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Or does the shaft need re-balancing?, motor has 100k on a rebuild bored .020 over

One doesn't generally balance the crankshaft but it depends on how you plan to use it and in what rpm range. It is most common to balance the weight of the pistons and rods together.

Unless you're planning on revving the ____ out of the motor, I wouldn't concern myself so much on balancing the crank. More-so, balance rods and pistons.

Okay, truck will be daily driven for the most part, only thing I'll be towing is a small boat or jet ski's... ARP studs can be re-used right?

Yes they can be reused. From the Galaxy S3

Thanks for all the replys guys.

I was ripping into the engine some more today, and was able to spin my crank to BDC on cylinder #1 to get a look at the walls.. The scratches from the piston dont seem that bad, is clyinder #1 really that effed that I needa full rebuild, check em out.

Here's my baby, running boards are removed now

don't go .040" over unless it is required. stock or .020 will let your block live longer and have room to rebuild in the future if needed and not need to be sleeved

Don't forget that if you have the block/head decked you need to know exactly how much so you can adjust the washers under the injectors.

There are different thickness head gaskets to address this before needing to do anything with injector spacing. Injector spacing comes in more so with different spray patterns and angles of aftermarket injectors and the combustion bowl size and shape of different piston designs.Injection Timing also plays into this once you start playing with injector spacings.

IIRC there are only 2 different thickness of head gaskets, but many different washer thickness options.