After I changed the neutral safety switch on the transmission the problem went away, for a bit, but is now back worse than before.To get it to start all I have to do is put it in neutral and just lightly pull up on the shift lever, and she cranks right up.I looked under the truck last night and wiggled the wiring, the switch and the shift cable to see if anything was loose or broken. Everything looks / feels OK. Looked under the dash and there looks like there is another switch under there. Anybody know what that switch is?

Sounds to me like something in the column. I'm not the wiring guy M1973M is. Hopefully he'll figure it out.........or give you good areas to look.

Sounds to me like something in the column. I'm not the wiring guy M1973M is. Hopefully he'll figure it out.........or give you good areas to look.

There is a switch in the cable going from the shifter arm to the transmission. It is part of the cable and is attractivly price@ $56 and some change. For a Dodge part no less. Alas this is only the switch that allows you to select a gear once your foot is pushing on the brake pedal. I pick up another neutral safety switch in the morning from the dodge place, for the unattractive price of $46 and some change vs. $20 something from NAPA for a made in China part. Be my luck the Dodge part is the same manufacturer.

Well I may have stumbled on to the root cause of all my problems (I hope). Went this morning to get a neutral safety switch from Dodge. For giggles I asked how much for a set of batterys for the truck. Cat behind the counter says they list for $150, but I can let you have them for $100 each. So I asked if this was for the correct battery for the truck and he said yup. I asked are they old and been in inventory for awhile? Nope says the cat behind the counter, they just came in. I said add a pair to my bill. Got home to take the ones in the truck out and put them in a couple of tractors, that could stand an upgrade, and notice that the bat on the drivers side is leaking battery acid around the negative terminal, it was kinda bubbling up out of the battery. So it was a good thing I decided to replace the mismatched set that was in the truck. As luck would have it the acid had eaten the pinch bolt in the clamp almost in two. Put in a new bolt, cleaned and neutralized the leaked acid on everything, tightened down all the clamps, and walla she's back to acting like she should.:hyper:Did about a dozen engine starts during the day, and zero miscues. I needed the batterys anyway so, if I'm fixed I'm happy. If not, I still averted a disaster waiting to happen.

Funny you should fine that as a answer. I just got done doing the same thing for a local gent here and replaced his batteries for a dead pedal issue. Strange what a fresh set of batteries will do for starting and performance issues.

Well it came back to visit this morning. so off to the dealer to see if they can find something. $158.00 later it has all new flashes, 8 in all. Did have some stored codes.C2100 ABS Battery voltage low. Probably when I changed batterys.P0931 CCN BTSI control circuit high. I have no idea what that even is?18-001-07 Check gauges lamp illuminates for alternator charging with DTC P2502, P2503, or P 250918-003-06 rev.A long crank when starting, and / or transmission shift and battery charging enhancements18-005-06 rev.B DTC correction, turbo protection and clutch duribility18-006-12 Dianostic enhancements for fuel sys.18-032-06 5.9L DTC P0191 fuel pressure sensor rationality18-037-08 DTC P2609 intake air heater sys performance18-041-05 Engine performance/white smoke08-026-06 rev.A overhead console temp. reading inaccurite or dome light turns off too soon.Looks like they threw the kitchen sink at it to see if anything sticks. On a happer note I now have the latest flash for everything that goes wrong and shouldn't. :banghead:

Too bad it all came back. The only thing I can offer is to check all the wiring connections, grounding Esp. the computer ground to the firewall, and so forth.I don't know if the passenger side battery is like my 02, anyway look for two grey factory connectors on the wires coming off the passenger battery wires. I think one goes to the computer, but make sure they are clean and fitting tight. I eliminated the connectors and soldered them together with shrink tube when I heard of another guy solving similar issues that way. I also added a heavier ground cable from the computer to the firewall and have not had any problems so far. Knock on wood.

Ok... Thinking out loud here.Batteries Good?Battery cables Good?Neutral Safety Switch Good?Ignition Switch Good?Starter Contacts Good?Starter Brushes Good?(Unknown) Is there a starter solenoid relay and fuse is the PDC?

Ok... Thinking out loud here. Batteries Good? Battery cables Good? Neutral Safety Switch Good? Ignition Switch Good? Starter Contacts Good? Starter Brushes Good? (Unknown) Is there a starter solenoid relay and fuse is the PDC?

New Mopar batterys 1 week old, checked 12.89 volts when it wouldn't turn the starter over. Cleaned cable connections, and ohmed them out. Neutral safty switch installed new 3 weeks ago, if that long. Was checked at the dealer, and it checked good. Ignition switch is my guess at this point in time but it checked out OK, while at the dealer. Brand new (not rebuilt) Bosch starter, last week in May. Could be bad, but ohms out as good to go. Amp draw is within spec. for new starter. TIPM (PDC) replaced along with starter. Don't know about relay. There may be new parts that are bad, but until it goes all the way bad. There is no way to know, unless it sets a DTC.

9 days and counting, no problems (fingers crossed, toes too).

Well crap, it's back. The no crank issue reared it's head this morning. It did the delay before crank, when I started it this morning. So when I got to work, I did a series of starts, while holding the key in a different position in the switch.With the key all the way in and pressed down on the fob so that the end of the key was raised to the top of the switch. It did the no crank. So holding the key again in different positions, I repeated trying to start the truck. No Go, so I let it set for 5 mins, and it started right up. So I'm thiunking that one of the tumblers in the lock is sticky????Anybody with knowledge of the ignition switch internals, have an opinion?

Well she let me down twice today. Going back to the dealer in the morning.

Well it turns out that they put a Bosch rebuilt starter in it, the last time and it went bad. so we be waiting on auother one to come out of cali.

Well it turns out that they put a Bosch rebuilt starter in it, the last time and it went bad. so we be waiting on auother one to come out of cali.

This is an '06????? Sounds odd to me. My '04.5 and my Buds '03 are still going on the OEM starter!!!! I dunno what to say!!!

This is an '06????? Sounds odd to me. My '04.5 and my Buds '03 are still going on the OEM starter!!!! I dunno what to say!!!

Apparently the Bosch rebuilt starters are done in the same place their rebuilt injectors are. I put the warranty company on notice that if this one failed, it would be construed in SC as a trend of knowingly suppling sub-standard repair parts. Which is intent to defraud. So we'll see how this goes. The bright side is that other than a half days vacation, it's not going to cost me anything. Not even a deductable since the part is warrantied for 12 / 12,000. Got a rental car to boot.