Ok, so I'm looking to replace my current saw with something a little more substantial.. Currently (and for the past 4 yrs) I've been swinging a Homelite Pro 20 in. Gas 46 cc saw. It originally came with a 16" bar/chain, so year 2, I bought a 20" bar setup for it.

It cuts like a champ, albeit sometimes hard to start. It doesn't like to idle for more than 20 sec. or so, but it has cut many a cord of wood.

The downside I have with it, is that 1) it wants to curve the cut when going through anything bigger than 10" diameter.. 2) it tends to stall the chain if you apply any real pressure to the saw when cutting.

I don't want to spend $1000, or even $500 for that matter, on a better saw, as I only cut wood for supplemental heating of my home.

What is causing this thing to curve-cut when going through larger diameter wood? I've tried really focusing on my cuts to ensure I'm not doing something wrong, but it seems to do it even when I try not to..

I was reading about the 029 last night, and how it 'can' slow down with a 20" bar on it.. Then started reading about how so many people are 'modding' their 029.. Here's one such post:

I wouldnt want to run 3/8 on a 57cc MS290 JMO. But I do run 3/8 on my 49cc saws like Partner 5000 Redmax 5000 etc for good reason compared to 290. The 290 powerband seems real touchy to load.

Here is some testing I did on my like new MS290 with 325 RM2 chain stock, then 325 RS chain turned into RSLK.

Best bang for the buck on the 290 is chain, stihl RS or RSC in 325 IMHO and then a muffler mod with gains of 23% after carb retune.

RSLK square work chain and it will cut 50% faster then a RM2 semi chisel chain. The RS or RSC will see close to same results of being faster in clean wood.

1 cut in almost 2 year old dry 10x10 poplar cant

RM2 best times.

17.81

18.27.

Square sharpened RSC to make a RSLK times.

8.75

9.09.

1 cut in same dried out 10x10 used earlier today 325 square chain

muffler mod no carb adjust.

8.35

8.50

Fined tuned carb to muffler mod

7.03

7.87 hit knot

7.13

Apparently, doing a muffler-mod and retune the carb REALLY wakes these saws up..

6.38

I picked up a used (well cared for) Stihl 029 18" for $150 from a buddy of mine. Came with case and 3 new chains, fresh tune-up. From the Galaxy S3

Yeah.. Dude backed out... :banghead:

Husqvarna 61 w/20" bar. fresh bar, chain, tune. $250, no case. runs greatWorth it?

Husqvarna 254XP. Had it about 17 years now and have hardly done anything to it. Light saw with alot of guts. File by hand, no gadgets, just by eye

I may pick this 61 Pro up tomorrow if he calls back. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Husqvarna 61 w/20" bar. fresh bar, chain, tune. $250, no case. runs great Worth it?

New Bar, chain and tune up are worth half that, I would take it.

So I picked up the Husky 61 this morning. One word: BEAST$200Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

So I picked up the Husky 61 this morning. One word: BEAST $200 Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Starts like a pig i bet tho does it? Love my Husky but any i've seen take quite a few pulls to get them going and even requiring the ckoke 10 minutes after being sat down from use..at least the older ones i've seen

1st or 2nd pull and it's running.. 157psi compression. Its like pull-starting a dirt bike though! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

:rolleyes:Sthl all the way baby... 2-3 pull on full choke. Few pops. High idle mode pull it one more time and she is a running. Lay it down have lunch and first pull she's fired back up.

Well, without getting into "Germany is better than Sweden, or vice versa. both saws are quality tools.I can say, though, that I met the guy this morning about 745am. Looked it over, compression checked it, fired it (3 pulls to run), paid for it, threw it in the truck and headed home. Got home about 1000-1030, took the saw out and sat it in the garage.About 1130-1200, I went back out to the garage to show my wife the saw. flips the switch on, pulled the choke, yanked it one time and vroom! Afterward, I took the covers off and cleaned it up. About 600-630 this evening, I went to put everything away, and grabbed the saw.. flipped it on, pulled the choke, yanked once.. Vroom (again)..My HP 46cc has always taken 10-12 yanks to get it to run.. I've got a 30" L x 8"D piece of hickory laying in the garage (for the smoker ). So, I fired the saw up and buried the bar into the log. This sliced right through the hickory with a quickness. Now I need a case..

Well, without getting into "Germany is better than Sweden, or vice versa. both saws are quality tools.

Well said... Yes I had to pick on you a bit. But both saws are very coomon out here. Also its like the Dodge, Ford and Chevy thing every one is picky about brands. But the fact of the matter do the tool get the job done? Sure it does!

Remember, I grew up in Texas. "cutting firewood" meant chunking up a mesquite bush.for the past 4-5yrs, I've been cutting cords and cords of Virginia red oak with my Homelite Pro 46cc 20", which honestly sounds like a weed eater, compared to this Husky.. But, I thought it was a decent saw.. Again, until this Husky..

Around here Stihl is the king of the hill, every corner store is a Stihl dealer of some sorts and there are more service centers as a result. There are not nearly as many Husky dealers and most stores who sell them do not offer service for them so you have to find an authorized service center for them adding to the headache if you bought a new one and needed warranty work or need non typical parts.

Around here Stihl is the king of the hill, every corner store is a Stihl dealer of some sorts and there are more service centers as a result. There are not nearly as many Husky dealers and most stores who sell them do not offer service for them so you have to find an authorized service center for them adding to the headache if you bought a new one and needed warranty work or need non typical parts.

All good, valid points to consider when purchasing a new saw..

Ok, so I took the saw out today to cut some firewood.. I do love the 1-2 pulls and it starts!

however, it needs (at least) a chain, maybe a bar. It cuts curved.

I made sure I wasn't applying pressure to cause it.

Chain is sharp. Properly? Questionable (it was on the saw when I bought it a couple weeks ago.)

Chips are chunks about 1/4-1/2" in length. I didn't notice any rocking of the chain.

One thing I noticed was that sometimes it would cut really good, then all of a sudden, stop cutting through, almost like the teeth were super dull, then it would take off again. I made sure I wasn't hitting anything.

The rakes are too tall. I went to Tractor Supply and looked for a new chain/bar combo but there was not one for it. This Husky 61 has a 20" bat on it.. HT-388-72. This is a 3/8" chain, that apparently calls for a 7/32" file. I bout a Husky 7/32" file set, with a guide for proper angle, as well as flat file for the rakers..

I cannot figure this thing out to save my ___..

What it's got on it:

[*]20", 3/8" Pitch, .058" Gauge, 72 DL

[*]Husqvarna # HT-388-72 or 608-000047

[*]Comparable Oregon # 208RNDD009

[*]Solid Bar with replaceable sprocket tip (single rivet design)

[*]H48 chain sharpens with a 7/32" round file or 3/16" grinding wheel.Pitch 3/8" (.375") Gauge .058" (1.5mm)

I can't figure this sharpener out, nor can I figure out the rake gauge.. The instructions on the packaging at total crap.

I guess I'll have to learn/practice the art of hand-filing, "free-style" LOL

Youtube is your friend...

I've been on it. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I've been on it. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Then apparently you missed this.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=U7QPak4Qw88&feature=endscreen

Oh wow. I got a little chubby watching that video...