Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
Alright so I have never seen the actual visual effects of different static timing degrees on these trucks to any accurate degree other than word of mouth so I did it myself at 0* then at 20*. I thought I was at 2* ATDC a year or 2 ago but apparently I was wrong. All of this will go to show that accurate info can make a world of difference. The 0* video is done and the 20* one will be done in a few hours. The 0* one tells a lot of the story though. Though now I question how CR's can run at timings after TDC. As the video shows, it gets better as it warms up, so I'm thinking CR's retard more as the engine temp allows, but still, how can they pull off 5*ATDC! One thing that was interesting was that every single number was identical, though idle speed seemed a few revs lower (5-10) with the 20* timing when it was at the same 140F as when I noted the RPM at 0* at the same temp. That is significant because idle speed is set with the idle screw so it is giving it the exact same fueling in both cases, nothing electronic to do any magic. At this point I can change the timing in about 20 minutes... I have a dead nuts TDC mark and if timing hasn't slipped then I can reference the last point to advance or retard however far I want. I just want to know how far I can advance it before you think I will see negative effects such as what I experienced as I went up in RPM's with 0*. I want to find the advanced timing's lower RPM limit... When will it start to run like crap.. When this is done, I will confirm the timing and confirm the TDC mark again, using a different valve. That way I will know if anything slipped in the process (timing gear) or if somehow the TDC was off. I did measure 14.2* as where I set it last time, which is basically where I set it last time (I aimed for 14.5) so the TDC mark should be pretty spot on, but I want to make sure. This begs a lot of questions that I am too involved in other things to think about right now. Why did the RPM-to-roughness go up as the engine block temp increased at 0*? Why did it run rough at 0* at those RPM's?, why didn't it just smoke more and be less efficient but do it smoothly? HmmmmmmThis might still be processing so refresh it later if it is..
http://youtu.be/i4QhHmAjUpI
I'll get the other one up when it's done uploading.