I really just want to see if it is just me or if others have the same luck. 3 years ago i smoked an airdog 150. Bad seal between motor and pump burned it up. 8 months thirteen days on that one. Replaced with a raptor 100. 123 days later, bad seal, smoked motor. Replaced with a raptor 150, Big lines from DSV to VP. A year and change later. Dead. Opened it up and I'm telling you, no magnets left. Just a big pile of soot and carbon inside. Replaced with a warrantied 150. Eight months to the day, same thing. Dead. Only this time, brushes as well. I rigged up a stocker with some fittings and hooked it to the biglines of the Raptors, plugged it into the raptor harness and away we go. Holds 14 steady with an easy foot and thats what i'm going with. I am not a fan of those pumps and going to run this untill i can afford an assasin. Got to be the biggest pile of horsepucky ive ever seen. :moon:

determining wire size from different charts might have something to do with it. Needing to add the return wire for total length (which my book says to include) to get the proper gauge.As said before a guy on the Ford forum said these motors run hot. I Never stopped to put my hand on mine to see, but running constant it's got to get pretty warm. Combined with hot fuel from a low tank, a hot day and that rubber 'O'ring has got to start on it's way to breaking down.I could be wrong naturally... but when looking at the wire harness the wires seem on the small side. The biggest problem is when you notice the ground is smaller that the power lead. 12 volt systems information from many sources, says, 'never have a smaller ground wire', but always the same size as the power lead..

A slight update to this thread. Yesterday afternoon received a call from a gent at Pure Flow. Seems that after my repeated issues with the Raptor 100 that they were handling my situation as a special case and wondered if they could get back to me the next day when they had some options for me. Totally agreed and told the gent that my issue was the unreliablilty of the pump and that I was not in any way looking for performance or the like out of the truck. He said that I would be contacted sometime today to hopefully take care of the issue. Course its now 5 minutes after 1700 here (5 pm to you non 24 hour folks! ) and no call so far but thats life. As long as they are working with me can hang on a bit longer. If they indeed do something like this then will sing the praises of PF for years to come. Good customer service is something that you do not see often these days.Lets hope that they call tomorrow with some good news! FT

determining wire size from different charts might have something to do with it. Needing to add the return wire for total length (which my book says to include) to get the proper gauge. As said before a guy on the Ford forum said these motors run hot. I Never stopped to put my hand on mine to see, but running constant it's got to get pretty warm. Combined with hot fuel from a low tank, a hot day and that rubber 'O'ring has got to start on it's way to breaking down. I could be wrong naturally... but when looking at the wire harness the wires seem on the small side. The biggest problem is when you notice the ground is smaller that the power lead. 12 volt systems information from many sources, says, 'never have a smaller ground wire', but always the same size as the power lead..

It wouldn't have anything to do with being bolted to a 200 degree engine would it....;) Not trying to be argumentative, but my Raptor motor on my AD 100 setup (on the frame rail) is luke warm to the touch after running for over 2 hours straight. I would have to think if it was going to get hot it would do so in those two hrs..... I do agree with the ground wire being larger than the hot, on my Raptor the 2 wires are the same size coming out of the pump and I made my own harness from the pump up to the OEM harness, which was 12 gauge wire.... JR

A slight update to this thread. Yesterday afternoon received a call from a gent at Pure Flow. Seems that after my repeated issues with the Raptor 100 that they were handling my situation as a special case and wondered if they could get back to me the next day when they had some options for me. Totally agreed and told the gent that my issue was the unreliablilty of the pump and that I was not in any way looking for performance or the like out of the truck. He said that I would be contacted sometime today to hopefully take care of the issue. Course its now 5 minutes after 1700 here (5 pm to you non 24 hour folks! ) and no call so far but thats life. As long as they are working with me can hang on a bit longer. If they indeed do something like this then will sing the praises of PF for years to come. Good customer service is something that you do not see often these days. Lets hope that they call tomorrow with some good news! FT

The one warranty claim I had the customer service was top notch. I'm not sure what they have in mind for you but I'm sure they will take care of you in the end.... With my Raptor I simply called and gave them the serial #, and they had another one in the mail no questions asked. JR

It wouldn't have anything to do with being bolted to a 200 degree engine would it....;) Not trying to be argumentative, but my Raptor motor on my AD 100 setup (on the frame rail) is luke warm to the touch after running for over 2 hours straight. I would have to think if it was going to get hot it would do so in those two hrs..... I do agree with the ground wire being larger than the hot, on my Raptor the 2 wires are the same size coming out of the pump and I made my own harness from the pump up to the OEM harness, which was 12 gauge wire.... JR

No because the Ford guy said he had his on the frame rail also. Are you running yours from direct battery thru a relay activated by the ECM?

The one warranty claim I had the customer service was top notch. I'm not sure what they have in mind for you but I'm sure they will take care of you in the end.... With my Raptor I simply called and gave them the serial #, and they had another one in the mail no questions asked. JR

JR, Did they make you return the old pump? They want me to send my old one back in, so am assuming that its going to be overhauled and given out to someone else when theirs dies. They did make me a very good deal. Not sure that I can comment on it just yet but once I get the ok will let everyone know. My days with the Raptor 100 are just about over, and now I get to figure out how to mount something new and much larger to the frame rails! FT

Nope, they never even asked for it. That is when I decided to tear it down to determine the differences between the Raptor motors and the AD100 motors. They are identical (other than the plugs I think) and I installed my new Raptor motor on an old AD100 assy that was given to me because it had a bad motor. The best part is the Raptor that was defective only had a seal go bad in the pump so I have a perfectly good motor and brushes as a spare in the event my new one goes out of warranty.JR

JR,Thanks. You bring up an interesting question. Assuming that you switched from a Raptor to a AirDog system with the dual filters? What was the conversion like? Any hassles? Looks like I am going to be doing the same thing and from the paperwork appears that the only big change is the vapor return line going back to the tank. Also did you bypass the stock fuel filter? Am not real excited about doing that as I have already spent the $$ to put the "Big Line" kit on the truck from Vulcan and do not want to go down to smaller hose supplied by PF. Thanks,FT

You can hook it right to the back of the filter. If you already have 1/2" line to the filter you will only need to change from the tank to thr pump depending on which one you get

You can hook it right to the back of the filter. If you already have 1/2" line to the filter you will only need to change from the tank to thr pump depending on which one you get

Thanks and I have the Raptor 100 on the truck right now, with a Drawstraw and Vulcan big line kit, so was hoping to just remove the old defective Raptor, mount the AD in the same place, attach the same fuel line fittings to the flare fittings that came from PureFlow in the first place (which I hope are the same size, they look like they are) then fuss with the return fuel line and electrical stuff. Thx, FT

JR, Thanks. You bring up an interesting question. Assuming that you switched from a Raptor to a AirDog system with the dual filters? What was the conversion like? Any hassles? Looks like I am going to be doing the same thing and from the paperwork appears that the only big change is the vapor return line going back to the tank. Also did you bypass the stock fuel filter? Am not real excited about doing that as I have already spent the $$ to put the "Big Line" kit on the truck from Vulcan and do not want to go down to smaller hose supplied by PF. Thanks, FT

Yes I switched from a Raptor to an AD100 with the twin filter set up. The AD100 was given to me with a burned up motor. When I found out I wasn't going to have to send my Raptor back when it started leaking, I tore into it to see if there were any differences between the 2 motors and there weren't. I took the motor off of my new Raptor and installed it on the AD100. I had to buy some fittings and hose to make it all work, and I made my own wiring harness. I can't remember off the top of my head how much they wanted for a harness but it was pretty expensive for what it was. I imagine if your going to buy an AD100 new they will provide most everything for you. Anything extra that you may need check out Vulcan Performance, that is where I bought everything I needed to make the conversion. I chose to keep my filter canister. I simply ran my fuel line up to the canister and bought a big line kit to go from the canister to the VP. I have the older style canister with 1/8" threaded ports coming out of the top and I use them for my fuel pressure gauge as well as a low pressure light I have wired in plain sight in case I don't catch any fuel pressure problems with my gauge right away. Plus it is an extra filter, which can't hurt, and retained my WIF sensor. Haven't ever seen it go off, but it just seems too easy to leave it in place and have the extra protection rather than remove it and have it taking up more space on the shelf somewhere.... JR

Thanks and just what I am planning on doing. They already sent me a kit, its a warranty situation as my Raptor 100 died for the 3rd time so I worked a deal with them to get away from the Raptor series. Thx,FT

With all these people having problems with the after market pumps, why not stick with stock? i ahev the stock in tank and the stock on block pumps, i have average 23-25 PSI, from idle up to 70 mph, when i floor it it only drops to 19. stock parts readily available, plenty fo fuel flow... i don't get it.... maybe i'm missing something. Oh i've added a edge comp with hot unlock also. so my smarty is on 2, edge on 3 for now.. i'm getting transmission built tomorrow.

With all these people having problems with the after market pumps, why not stick with stock? i ahev the stock in tank and the stock on block pumps, i have average 23-25 PSI, from idle up to 70 mph, when i floor it it only drops to 19. stock parts readily available, plenty fo fuel flow... i don't get it.... maybe i'm missing something. Oh i've added a edge comp with hot unlock also. so my smarty is on 2, edge on 3 for now.. i'm getting transmission built tomorrow.

So if I understand correctly your running two pumps in series? What happens when one pump goes bad? Will the remaining pump be able to push/pull fuel through the dead unit? I got away from the OEM set up up because they simply do not put out enough pressure to supply the VP (this has been confirmed by Bosch themselves). The block mounted Carters are far from reliable, which is why they went to the in tank pumps, but those do not provide adequate pressure either. Then there is the desire for some who want the insurance of added filtration, and aftermarket is the only way to go. JR

So if I understand correctly your running two pumps in series? What happens when one pump goes bad? Will the remaining pump be able to push/pull fuel through the dead unit? JR

Im not sure, i've not had just one go out on me yet. i would guess i can unplug one and see. but for now. it's working great. with the check valves in them they should allow fuel to pass through bu not siphon back.

Working together like that perhaps makes them last a long time.

Well an update to my situation. My old Raptor 100 worked fine up until the end... but thats as long as I did not drive over 20 miles at a time. Anything over that and the pump overheated and the pressure started falling. I let it drop to 11-12 psi then stopped by the side of the road for 3-4 minutes to cool down, and it was fine for another 20 miles.After losing three Raptor 100's, PureFlow just made me a deal on a AirDog ll-165, the model they sell for the semi-trucks. Just got it on the truck late this afternoon and boy does this puppy put out the pressure. Its immediately up to 25 psi at idle, not taking 1-2 seconds to pressure the system like the old Raptor 100 did. Have not driven it other than up and down the street but boy it sure does seem like its a lot better, plus it has those two filters on it which have to help.

You better turn that pressure down to around 18 or you are gonna start having starting problems

I've had my Raptor 150 for around 4 years now without any issues. I have run the pressure at 25 psi for those 4 years, and have not once experienced any issues with either the lift pump or the injection pump.I understand that the Duramax FCAs on their CP3s are sensitive to pressure, but I've not personally heard of anyone having issues with a Cummins spec pump at those pressures.

Ooops. Just realized I am in the 24 valve section. Missed it, being that I am on the tapatalk app.Sorry, disregard. Well, except the fact that it seems that Raptor USED to put out a good pump. Lately, seeming not so much.