Question how can you power your trailer when you dont have electricity to hook to other than the batteries and you want to turn your a/c ? the guy that sold me trailer said that I need 30 amp to turn the a/c on and that I would be needing a generator to do that is that the only way? or is there way to plug in to the my trucks electricity?

You'd need like a 3,000 watt generator. Don't believe you'll get that from an inverter from any battery. And it would not run long enough off batteries to be feasible anyway. You gotta plug into 110v A/C or a generator.

Your trailers air conditioning unit is AC and will not run off your pickups DC system. Yes you will need at least a 3000w generator to run your campers "AC/ Alternating current" powered "AC/Air conditioning" unit.

Bit of simple math.

12 VDC x 250 Amps DC = 3,000w = 120 VAC x 25 Amp AC

12 VDC x 120 Amps DC = 1,440w (Stock alternator)

You would need at least 3 alternators to power the AC unit on the RV. Not happening. There is a reason I didn't use 14 Volt for the calculation too. The reason being to show 12 / 120 relationship. So now you know to take any household appliance and add a zero to the Amps and you got your 12 VDC amp draw... Remember my house is ran on batteries...

So you left with a portable generator. I've got 2 for the RV. I'll admit the small 2,500w I got is extremely quiet and capable of recharging the batteries and running the fridge but it will not start the A/C nor run the water heater. Just doesn't have the strength to hold the load with it tiny engine. But now I've got a construction grade 4kw generator that powers everything all at once on the RV without blinking an eye. But the sad part is it takes 2 people to pick that beast up and it loud.

Thank you everybody, I would be looking into getting a portable generator very soon thanks again!!

- - - Updated - - -

Now I have to look into my trailer wiring this is my first trailer so forget me me if I ask weird questions . There is an existing brake controller (that I don't know if it works or not) and also there are the oem 7 pin trailer connections but behind those connections theres a bunch of wires spliced up and need to figure out a way to see what works and what doesn't unfortunately I haven't picked up the trailer form the guy I bought it from and dont have a way to test is they work or not and am wanting to be ready for this thursday, please any tips would very much appreciated!

Ok so got back from my first trip about a week ago it was my first experience hauling a 5th wheel definitely a learning experience. Now I am going to look into getting some more mod for my truck which I think I need maybe a bigger turbo along with a manifold any other mods any body else recommends to a better towing.

What are you wanting to fix to make for better towing? Did you have high egt's and you want to lower them or are you looking for more top end power or??? What you are trying to fix will go a long way in helping identify what mods you can make to help out.

Am just trying to have plenty of power and at the same keep my engine safe . I dont really know what is a safe EGT temperatures all I know is that I need to keep the temp down.

Rule of thumb.Watch your pyrometer. When it reaches 1,200*F you want to slow down and gear down 1 gear. Then kick the RPM's back pu to 2K RPM's and watch again. If the pyrometer reaches 1,200*F slow down and gear down again. I've got a 7% grade I got to do in 3rd because of the tight corners I all I can't build my speed back up without pushing the pyrometer well over 1,200*F to get to the next gear. Then slow down at the next corner... So in my case just go slow.Typically I go from 5th to 4th and climb most grades at 50-53 MPH at 1,000-1,100*F and no issues at all. I use 1,200*F as my breaking line to trigger my down shifting. Bunch of people will admit you can pull all day at 1,200*F but I tend to try and allow for room for erro just in case the pyrometer gauge is wrong.