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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features. Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.
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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features. Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.
Well gang... I gone and done it. I got the Honeywell thermostat installed and all figured out. The first thing to suggest is to open up the access to both the furnace and the A/C unit and look at the wiring layout. Now I know with RV system there is no exact code they must hold to for color or labeling. So once I look at the furnace I saw a Red and White wire. So back at the thermostat I unhooked and touch them together and presto heater. Now also looking at the old thermostat the Red from the furnace was labeled +12V. Which it was a power lead so knowing this I place that lead to the R terminal on the new thermostat. The White wen to the W terminal. Now the A/C part was pretty easy. When I got the cover off I noticed right away the terminals where labeled already. But there is a catch the G is not just G its GL (lo fan - White) and GH (hi fan Green). So I used the GH lead in the G terminal of the thermostat the other GL lead I just taped up the end. The Y lead went to the Y terminal of the thermostat. Now there is a Blue wire (from the A/C) tied to Ground. Which I left and not used on the Honeywell thermostat but it was used on the Coleman for circuit ground. But after turning on the DC and AC power again and testing. Wow! I got a good thermostat! No more waking up at night either freezing or frying from lack of heat or a runaway heater. As for that problem I did find that problem and could fix it. It a cracked solder joint on the circuit board so as you slide the temp slider up or down it either hooked up or didn't. But why fix it when I got better now! Oh a better understanding of the terminal codes... http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Thermostat_signals_and_wiring