Hi All, I recently purchased a 4WD 2500 24v 5.9 with 115K miles. No problems at all for the first 800 miles. Twice since then, the engine has stumbled. Cruising at about 35mph, fully warmed up, with about half a tank of fuel, it just fell on its face for about a half a second, and then picked itself up like nothing ever happened. Any thoughts? I drained some clean fuel from the fuel/water separater, no water. There was a wire dangling that I re-connected to the filter housing. I think it was for the water in fuel sensor. That was about 100 miles ago. Today, the ABS and BRAKE lights come on and stay on. Gauges all look normal, and the brakes seem to work fine. Probably unrelated, but pressure builds up in the fuel tank. Is that normal? I was going to check fuel pressure at the filter. My fuel pressure test gauge goes up to 100 psi and says DO NOT USE ON DIESEL OR MULTIFUEL ENGINES. Why? Possible gasoline contamination of fuel? Who knows, I'll buy a new gauge, any suggestions? Thanks,Jay

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 4WD 2500 24v 5.9 with 115K miles. No problems at all for the first 800 miles. Twice since then, the engine has stumbled. Cruising at about 35mph, fully warmed up, with about half a tank of fuel, it just fell on its face for about a half a second, and then picked itself up like nothing ever happened. Any thoughts? I drained some clean fuel from the fuel/water separater, no water. There was a wire dangling that I re-connected to the filter housing. I think it was for the water in fuel sensor.

Ok... The first two things I need to diagnose what going on is the fuel pressure at idle and WOT. Then I need OBD II error codes if any are present.

That was about 100 miles ago. Today, the ABS and BRAKE lights come on and stay on. Gauges all look normal, and the brakes seem to work fine.

As for this problem if the speedometer is work that means there is a front sensor that has failed. So check the wiring to the front sensor if fine then you got to replace them.

Probably unrelated, but pressure builds up in the fuel tank. Is that normal?

No. This is not normal. You might want to check the vent on the top of the fuel tank for a plugged vent. There was a TSB for removing the vinyl cap on the vent. (yes they forgot to pull it off!)

I was going to check fuel pressure at the filter. My fuel pressure test gauge goes up to 100 psi and says DO NOT USE ON DIESEL OR MULTIFUEL ENGINES. Why? Possible gasoline contamination of fuel? Who knows, I'll buy a new gauge, any suggestions?

Gauge is too wide of scale... You need a 0-30 PSI gauge... Normal pressure is 12-13 PSI at WOT and 15 at Idle. It should never fall below 10 PSI ever...

Thanks,

Jay

As for error codes head over here...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the quick response! Haven't gotten a proper fuel pressure gauge yet, but did pull the ODB codes, all I get is a P1693. On the ABS and BRAKE light issue, upon closer inspection, the speedo only works above about 15mph. Shows 0 when going slower than 15. What does that mean? That fuel tank vent was clogged with dirt. Used a small drill bit to clean out. No tank pressure after 5 mile test drive!

How did you pull the codes? The 1693 code is a companion code. You have to have another code.

Thanks for the quick response! Haven't gotten a proper fuel pressure gauge yet, but did pull the ODB codes, all I get is a P1693. On the ABS and BRAKE light issue, upon closer inspection, the speedo only works above about 15mph. Shows 0 when going slower than 15. What does that mean? That fuel tank vent was clogged with dirt. Used a small drill bit to clean out. No tank pressure after 5 mile test drive!

Rear speed sensor is shot... What is happening is the speed sensor is showing zero at the same time the front 2 sensors seeing speeds above 0 MPH so again the ABS computer can't understand how the half the vehicle is travelling faster than the other half so ABS/BRAKE lights are tripped and the error codes are stored P0500...

Thanks Mike, I'll pickup a new rear speed sensor. As far as pulling the codes, I used an old Davis Instrument CarChip. It plugs into the ODB II connector and records any trouble codes present as well as trip info (it records speed at 5 sec intervals). It can also be used to reset the CEL. Can't explain why just the one code is retreived. I emailed Davis Instrument for help in getting "all of the codes". Is there another method for retrieving codes? I tried the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON sequence but only see the odometer reading.

Is there another method for retrieving codes? I tried the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON sequence but only see the odometer reading.

that trick only works for trucks newer than ours!

Update... Replacing the rear speed sensor solved the ABS/BRAKE light issue. Looked like a easy job, but took about an hour. I scraped the rust from the sensor hole, greased the new sensor, and still had to use hydraulic jack to press it in. Pretty tight fit. I left the CarChip plugged in and it logged a P0216. What's a good source for a 0-30 psi fuel test gauge? None of the local shops have one. Are these dealer parts?6977 Kit, Diesel Fuel Pressure (Includes 06628 Gauge and #8976 Fitting)6631Adapter, Fuel Pressure

Update... Replacing the rear speed sensor solved the ABS/BRAKE light issue. Looked like a easy job, but took about an hour. I scraped the rust from the sensor hole, greased the new sensor, and still had to use hydraulic jack to press it in. Pretty tight fit. I left the CarChip plugged in and it logged a P0216. What's a good source for a 0-30 psi fuel test gauge? None of the local shops have one. Are these dealer parts? 6977 Kit, Diesel Fuel Pressure (Includes 06628 Gauge and #8976 Fitting)6631Adapter, Fuel Pressure

I would go over to the vendor forum and post up and ask the local vendors to see what they got. Or venture over to the social groups ans see what they have for store fronts... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forumdisplay.php?f=67 or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php

Sorry to hear about the 0216 code. But, you definately need to find out what your pressure is. You don't want to put on a new VP and find out that the pressure is inadequate. You might be able to get a sweet package deal.

What do you mean "Sorry to hear about the 0216 code".Is total failure imminent ?????

What do you mean "Sorry to hear about the 0216 code". Is total failure imminent ?????

From my experience once that code shows up you had better save up for the VP44 replacement as it ususlly isn't a sign of much time left in it before you start showing the signs of a dead vp44, dead pedal, surging, surging cruise control, hard start, no start ect.............:sad4:

The 0216 indicates a mechanical failure in your injection pump that doesn't allow it to advance adequately. It will need to be replaced with a remanufactured pump to operate properly. The injection pump has no serviceable parts. I drove for nearly a year with a P0216 but had intermittent dead pedal and eventually hard starts until it died all together. Unfortunately, there is no way to know how long it will take for your pump to died completely. It could be tomorrow or a few months from now. I see your already experiencing dead pedal from your original post. I see you are installing a fuel pressure gauge. You definitely should make sure you have proper fuel pressure before installing an injection pump. You don't want to damage a new injection pump with low pressure. The pressure should never go below 10 psi even at wide open throttle.

Edited January 8, 201015 yr by edcasey

What do you mean "Sorry to hear about the 0216 code". Is total failure imminent ?????

Just that it will soon be time for you to set out a chunk of change. Like Ed says you don't know when it is going to happen. Once you do put a new one in you want to make sure that you are treating the fuel with a 2 cycle oil diet, have a good lift pump with good fuel pressure.

I guess I'll start saving my nickels :sad4: Any suggestions on 2-stroke oil, In my outboards I use Yamalube 2M. Its pricy (~$25 per gallon), but its what Yamaha and my local mechanic recommends. What ration do you burn?

I normally use WalMart Supertech at a Ratio of 128:1...

Don't know if this will help, but when my left front bearing was going out, it was rubbing on the ABS sensor causing the ABS and Brake light to flash intermittently, especially above 55-60mpg.

Rear axle speed sensor fixed the ABS/BRAKE light issue. Plan to change rear fluids this weekend, got a little chatter on turns and don't know whats in there anyways. Still haven't gotten a fuel pressure gauge, but did replace the lift pump. Definitely more power now. Started adding 2-stroke oil to fuel, to stretch out whatever life is left in the vp44. It actually runs quieter now, or at least not as loud. Thanks to every body for your help, hope I can return the favor someday.

Don't know how relevant it is. But on the CumminsForum someone brought up a copper seal for the injectors going bad causing the tank to pressurize due to blow by that makes it into the return line. My truck has had this pressurization problem for sometime. I ended up "venting" the tank by taking apart the fuel cap and causing it to vent. I think it's time for me to investigate this copper seal thing a little more...On the flip side I do not have the death code. But I installed an AirDog 150 and run 2-cycle like Mopar1973Man suggests.

Still haven't gotten a fuel pressure gauge, but did replace the lift pump. Definitely more power now.

Thats great that your getting it fixed. Plan on getting that fuel pressure gauge installed soon. If you don't do it in the very near future you will probably just forget about it.