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Oil pump housing failure, probable rebuild...

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On my way to elk camp I developed a whine from the engine. I presumed it was the vacuum pump failing and removed the belt to install my non-vacuum pump belt. While the belt was off I started the motor to verify the noise was belt driven, it wasn't, pointing to a gear noise. Due to my remote location I drove the truck 15 miles to camp, 45 miles closer than town. I shut the truck down and waited. Two days later I started the truck and the noise was present instantly and got much louder when the oil pressure came up, I have a real gauge. This further led me, and my mechanic, the believe it was the gear train. We decided I should have it towed, and my insurance covered the tow (what a PITA) 255 miles to the shop. The truck got delivered yesterday and the mechanic got the timing cover off today, and it's amazing I made it to camp. The oil pump housing broke right where the idler gear is. The broken housing caused the gear to contact the housing and allowed the gear to run crooked and damage the crank gear. Somehow the cam gear also has a broken tooth, probably from a piece of the broken housing contacting the gears. The oil filter was full of metal, some of which was copper colored. The magnet in the pan had some metal on it, but not overly fuzzy. The big questions are how much metal got thru the filer? I run a 15um filter vs the OEM 40um filter. How much contaminated oil splashed up on the crank and cylinders while I was driving after the failure? I probably put about 45-60 minutes of run time on it from when I heard the noise. Before hearing the noise I was doing 30-50 on a dirt road with mud tires, the noise could have been masked for several miles. What else is damaged that we cannot see?The engine is coming out this week.. time will tell how far we tear it down. But probably all the way if it's out. I will be rebuilding it with QSB early CR pistons and nozzles. I have 93k miles and 2800 hours on the motor, surely no where near soon enough for this kind of failure. I bought a Cummins because they don't this!!Have any of you seen this before? My mechanic hasn't. Sorry, no photos yet. I wasn't thinking about that when I got to the shop. On a positive note I had a great week with my dad and brother, and filled my elk and deer tags.

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So what's the "count down" to the tear down???:spend: Take lots of pix.

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I am hoping today or tomorrow. The shop already had a full load for the week.

Any chance this could be related to a faulty damper? Several years ago the damper let go on my uncles Pete several hundred miles from home. He didnt realize it at the time and continued to drive and barely made it home. It cost him a bottom end. Sorry for your misfortunes thats a real bummer. JR now Free

  • Author

I have only had my damper on the motor for 18K miles, its the QSB480 damper. Its also what the 07.5-11 6.7 uses. There isn't a rubber piece to wear/fail.

:popcorn::popcorn: Started the "tear-down" yet???I'm curious as to what the "innards" of the Cummins looks like after the amount of miles you have on yours....................seeing I've better than the double the miles on mine. 196,1xx on MightyWhitey now. Hope it's not "too" painful.:spend:
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Oh it's painful at any cost.. this IS NOT why we bought a Cummins. The motor is still in the truck, hopefully this week will shed some more light. I am ordering the cam, 103# springs, and pushrods tomorrow. I'm getting a idle-2600 rpm cam, and will have a 4K rpm valve train :-) But no additional labor, and the added valve train support is a good idea with a cam, even a mild one. The pistons I am going with are the QSB pistons and they are double heat treated by Cummins and are supposed to be 30% stonger than the 03-04 piston, which is stronger than my OEM piston.. should be good there!

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    If you don't mind adding the part #'s of the improved parts you are going with to the thread it would help others who may end up doing an overhaul or even just an upgrade in the future.What brand of Cam are you going with?

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    Will do.. I'll start another thread when I get more numbers.. .but for now I know Hamilton Cam's 178/208 idle-2600 rpm towing/mileage cam http://www.hamiltoncams.com/17pecam.html Hamilton 103# valve springs http://www.hamiltoncams.com/10spfor24vcu.html Hamilton 24V HD pushrods http://www.hamiltoncams.com/24vahedupu.html The pistons will be QSB480 pistons, I'll try to get a part number. As for injectors it all depends on how mine test.. they work great so I am hopeful.. but I have NO, NONE, ZERO, ZIP, ZILCH desire to tear into the engine for maintenance anytime in the next 100K miles (other than routine stuff).. so if they are marginal they will get replaced. Not sure what I will go with yet.. BBi Stage 1, BMS 50hp, DDP +50's? I want a little more fuel, but mainly a more efficient nozzle for mileage/smoke.

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    Are those the iron/steel pistons that read about on CompD a couple years ago...................or are they still aluminium???:cool:

    Please pardon my faulty memory & possibly (probably) dumb questions. I read a while back about someone who had built a Cummins truck engine around marine pistons... supposed to be the 'hot set up' and then was stuck being forced to use marine injectors with a less than desirable spray pattern. I take it that these are not those pistons. Which makes me ask outside of "strength" what are the differences? Bowl shape?

    • Author

    They are an alum alloy. The steel ones are Mahle, and heavy. They are not desirable in my application. The marine pistons use the same bowl as the 03-04, so any 03-04 injector works.

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    The suspense is killing me!!!:ahhh:

    It's killin me too!!!

    It's killin me too!!!

    Come on, man……………………you're not "holding off" on us; are you?????? Delay in the "tear-down"??? What up??? I'm like an "expectant" father here………………...
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    No, the motor is still in the truck. Until Monday. Shop is busy and I had to wait my turn. It should be torn down and at the machine shop tues. I did bring the damper home, clean it up and it's been painted.

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    It's killin me too!!!

    Ya, before it's done it will be killing you in more than one way. :-(

    No, the motor is still in the truck. Until Monday. Shop is busy and I had to wait my turn. It should be torn down and at the machine shop tues. I did bring the damper home, clean it up and it's been painted.

    Why are you not doing the work yourself, seeing what you have done in the past a full teardown is fairly straight forward and I thought you would be capable. Seems if you have time to wait you could have done it yourself...................Just wondering is all.:think: Hey I know others were thinking what I just asked...........................Someone had to do it :tease:
    • Author

    Why are you not doing the work yourself, seeing what you have done in the past a full teardown is fairly straight forward and I thought you would be capable. Seems if you have time to wait you could have done it yourself...................Just wondering is all.:think:

    Hey I know others were thinking what I just asked...........................Someone had to do it :tease:

    Time and tools are the main reason, and space is another. I could easily tear down, but I don't want to reassemble. Just because I can do it, doesn't mean I want to do it for the first time. I have a lot of mechanical experience and background, and know when it's just best to pay for experience. I am going to peek my head in as things go back together as I really enjoy that stuff.

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    Ya, before it's done it will be killing you in more than one way. :-(

    Yes it will, but at least it will be a better than stock motor. Gotta have something to look forward to.

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    Here is the repainted harmonic damper. I used 500° Engine Rustoleum.

    post-10129-138698210312_thumb.jpg

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    Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.