I believe my drag link is wore out? The auto parts store website calls them the tie rod ends?  There is some play in my steering wheel,  but it doesn't wander around on the road.

 

What I'm trying to figure out is if this is causing the vibration that I am having. It only happens between 30mph to 45mph. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel, just mainly in the floor board. The vibration is there weather I am braking, cruising, or accelerating. But like I said Its only between 30 and 45mph. Between 0-29mph and 46-above, its very smooth.

 

Any ideas? I plan on going with moog parts.

 

If I uploaded it right, I added a video of the drag link movement.

tierod end.MOV

First and second pictures are left inner tie rod. The third is right inner tie rod. These having play will not cause a vibration. I would rotate tires to see if the vibration follows.

For our trucks they are inner and outer tie rods basically but there are 5 pieces to the puzzle. There is a Tie rod at the pitman arm, Left hand  tie rod end, right hand tie rod end, Cross link tie rod and then the track bar. If your planning on replacing these parts definatly look into the 03 and newer upgrade parts. It will eliminate some of the really bad wear and tear these parts go through. I used the BD Track bar kit on mine. like this one

 

http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/bd%20track%20bar%201032011.htm

 

I have a very slight shimmy at about 40mhp also and none of these parts fixed it. But the front end is nice and tight again. The one thing I haven't done yet was pull the drive lines out and have them checked for balance or wear. This is the next thing I will try to see if it fixes my vibration or shimmy.

What you are feeling in the floorboard is classic track bar end link slop, time for a 3rd gen conversion.

What you are feeling in the floorboard is classic track bar end link slop, time for a 3rd gen conversion.

I did that and still have a vibration at about 40mph

I got the tie rod ends changed. It went pretty easy, popped right out. Haven't driven it yet, but I'll be rotating the tires tomorrow morning and will report back if the vibration is still there or not.

 

Thanks,

Edited March 22, 201411 yr by kedlin88

I would hold off on rotating the tires before you take it for a test drive! Only change one thing at a time so that you know what exactly caused the problem. Might help others in the future too.

I would hold off on rotating the tires before you take it for a test drive! Only change one thing at a time so that you know what exactly caused the problem. Might help others in the future too.

That's a good idea. We woke up this morning with snow on the ground so it looks like I'm not doing anything today. But I'll drive it before I rotate the tires.

 

Thanks

I got the tie rod ends changed. It went pretty easy, popped right out. Haven't driven it yet, but I'll be rotating the tires tomorrow morning and will report back if the vibration is still there or not.

 

Thanks,

I did that and still have a vibration at about 40mph

When the track bar end link goes bad I have on every ocassion had a clunk at the drver side floor board never a vibration.

You may also check the shocks. I had an old ford truck and the front shocks were wore out. Going down the highway between 50 and 62 mph the front end would vibrate pretty bad. Never felt it in the wheel or anything, the front end just vibrated pretty rough. Felt that in the floor board too.

I have the shimmy too and I just replaced my shocks last fall. We all have something in common too which I haven't ruled out yet, 47RE. In a built tranny the line pressure is less under light throttle, so the vibrations could be TC slippage. Although, mine feels like the front end is going up and down quickly like the coil springs have lost their stiffness and shocks don't dampen it.

I have the shimmy too and I just replaced my shocks last fall. We all have something in common too which I haven't ruled out yet, 47RE. In a built tranny the line pressure is less under light throttle, so the vibrations could be TC slippage. Although, mine feels like the front end is going up and down quickly like the coil springs have lost their stiffness and shocks don't dampen it.

If your converter is slipping under light throttle like that then you have problems that need to be addressed.

I would associate a vibration with a rotating component, like a universal joint, driveshaft, or a tire. Does it get better/worse with road conditions? If your on a rough bumpy stretch of road can you hear it more than a smooth stretch? Or is it more speed related?

Below 35 and above 42 doesn't matter what toad conditions are mine is pretty much the same. Kedlin88 how is yours?

I am experiencing pretty much the same symptoms on my 2012 VW. After taking it in to the dealer (under 22k miles) and winding up in contact with VW of America, I diagnosed it to be the left brake rotor. It has hard spots in it and is causing the problem. Check your rotors and you may see some spots that look like they may have been hot.

Mines the same between 30-45mph. Doesn't matter what the road conditions are.Lower then 30, or higher then 45, smooth as can be.

 

Hopefully tomorrow I will get a chance to drive it and see if the tie rod ends helped any. If not then I'll rotate the tires. If that doesn't help I'll pull the front drive shaft and see what that dose.

 

I was planning on checking the brakes while I was rotating the tires.

I was planning on checking the brakes while I was rotating the tires.

Make sure you check them inside and out real close. Quite often the problem is not real easy to spot.

Took a test drive today. It drove a lot better.  I still have the vibration and I also still have the "clunk" in the floor board.

 

I will rotate the tires tomorrow and check brakes to see what happens to the vibration.

 

Is there a specific way to check worn ball joints while I have the tires off? Just try to move the tire/wheel up and down?

 

Thanks,

You need to have the tires in the air about an inch or two and put a pry bar under the tire then lift the pry bar so that you are lifting the tire atraight up. There will be some play in the upper but should be very little in the lower. I cant remember the specs.

When do you hear the clunk? That could be sway bar bushings or end links if its over bumps.

Edited March 25, 201411 yr by mopartechnician

Check the control arms out, the bushings will either wear out or dry rot from age and make a clunk when going over bumps. Feeling them in the floorboard is about the right location as well.

Edited March 25, 201411 yr by diesel4life

Yep those too. Easy way to do that is watch the brake caliper when brake and see if it rotates. It shouldnt roll forward at all