Well folks, for the 3rd time in 4 years my VP-44 is throwing codes. Both the PO216 and P1698 now... Was hard to start for a bit but now thats cleared up but its now smoking badly when I put my foot into it and thought I saw some white smoke while driving it home yesterday. 

 

This is after I spent over $1000 to help prevent this from ever happening again. An Air Dog 165 fuel pump with dual filters along with the Vulcan big line kit from the tank to the VP pump, as well as an Edge W/Attitude to monitor the fuel pressure and an alarm should the fuel pressure ever get below 15 psi. The fuel pressure has never gone below 12 psi (it usually sets at 18-19 psi) and the filters have been changed several times in the last year. 

 

To tell the truth I am at the point of about being ready to sell the truck and go with something else. I simply cannot afford $1000 for a new/overhauled VP every year. Added to that I cannot have the thing strand me out on the road somewhere. Love the Cummins, like the truck but if its not reliable then its not for me. 

 

Now I bought this last VP from what I was told was a reliable pump place and they told me that they would "stand behind their product" for the full 12 month warranty, but "should anything happen in the 13th or 14th month, we will take care of you" (and I have that in writing).... Well I was two weeks over the 12 month time period and he just emailed me back saying "the warranty is 12 months, your coverage is done!" ... Great service isnt it? I just love liars... 

 

His idea of "standing behind his product" was telling me to either "PPump or VE pump" the engine and that he would be happy to buy the old VP core from me. 

 

I have seen several posts on the PPump conversion but never heard of a VE pump conversion for my 24 valve engine. I simply cannot afford the $2500 costs that everyone says it costs on the PPump conversion, plus what I can see its a pretty involved process. As well I am working out in the  open in the driveway of my house so am not going to be able to yank the entire front end of the truck apart and leave it setting like this for weeks. The homeowners group would not let that happen... I can change a VP in 5-6 hours and they are fine with that but there are limits. 

 

Any suggestions or ideas? Or should I just put another overhauled VP on the truck and get something newer that does not have a VP on it?  Or is it time to buy a Power Stroke and be done with it? Friend of mine has a 7.3 Power Stroke with 300,000 miles on it and the original injection pump... 

 

Thx Joe

Edited September 30, 201410 yr by FlatTwin

Yeah it just too far up. Like I said normal should be 0.01 to 0.02. You really close to getting the 0.10 mark time for a change of alternator...

Thanks and guess its time to O/H the alternator then! 

Getting marginal.

I wish there was a diode kit for our alternators. It would be nice to just purchase the diode pack and replace it. Normal good diode should be 0.01 to 0.02. Your 0.08 is very concerning.

There you go http://store.alternatorparts.com/ibr256---bridge-rectifier.aspx

Check your amps on back of alternator, this place has both.

Also my brushes were wore 3/4 or better got them from cluod gear with bearings, for $35 shipped. One bearing was stamped AVF and the other just numbers, B17-99D was big one with AVF on inner race, and 6003RD for smaller one.

Edited December 21, 201410 yr by Dieselfuture

There you go http://store.alternatorparts.com/ibr256---bridge-rectifier.aspx

Check your amps on back of alternator, this place has both.

Also my brushes were wore 3/4 or better got them from cluod gear with bearings, for $35 shipped. One bearing was stamped AVF and the other just numbers, B17-99D was big one with AVF on inner race, and 6003RD for smaller one.

DF,

 

Can you get to the diode's and brushes without taking the alternator off of the truck or is it better to remove the puppy?

 

Thanks for the link BTW! 

 

FT

You probably could change the rectifier pack by leaving it on the truck, but I would think that it would by sorta tough to do......... I would pull it.

Take the alternator out will make it a lot easier, and make sure you do change both diodes and brushes as old wore out brushes can make some ac noise, make sure you don't cut stator wires but rather old diode ones and then pry them apart, otherwise won't be long enough to crimp and solder new racktifire on.

Edited December 30, 201410 yr by Dieselfuture

Yeah it just too far up. Like I said normal should be 0.01 to 0.02. You really close to getting the 0.10 mark time for a change of alternator...

Does your v/ac rise at all from .02 when you rev it up? After I rebuilt my alternator truck seems to run more crisp and haven't surged yet. I went back to local guy and he hooked his devise up to test diodes and it was mostly on good but not at 100% he said it was way acceptable, and other things could affect it. And with my fluke I get .03 at idle and .06 at 2500rpm. Just curios if you tried revving motor up to see any change.

Edited December 30, 201410 yr by Dieselfuture