This morning I drove the truck to take my son to school and then run a few errands. Transmission shifted normally, truck ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. This evening I went to pick him up from school and once I hit the road it wouldn't shift out of second gear, not even manually. I get to the school, check fluid, its full and was just changed in October when I installed the new torque converter. I shut the truck off, started it back up, and it shifted fine for about a half mile then it started hanging in second again. I pulled up to a stop light and it started jerking and bucking, so I threw it in neutral. I made it to my driveway in second gear then trying to get up the hill it wouldn't engage in any gear. I shut it off, started it back and it engaged normally so I pulled in the car port. I worked it in and out of gear a few times then it started bucking again, so again I shut it off, started it and it was the same scenario. It could be coincidence but it seems like it shifts at first while the grid heaters are running and the alternator is low but once the alternator gets up to normal it starts acting up.  Is it possible for alternator a/c noise to cause it to act this bad? I didn't have time to check tonight but was looking for some suggestions. Another thing is that the temperature is way below normal here. 7 degrees this morning with below 0 wind chill. I know most of you guys will laugh but thats cold for NC.

MnTom, that sounds like first hand knowledge. Ha ha.

I won't admit to it...........

http://www.allstarautomotivedenver.com

This is an awesome place to build your transmission. They have tons of experience with the 47RE. I've had them build a few GM 4T60 and 4T65 transmissions and they were better than new. 3 years 100k mile warranty too.

Don't forget to flush your lines and cooler just in case.

P.S. I love my stick but hate to think of the cost to rebuilt. Might do it myself if I ever need to.

Alright guys, I've got everything here and going to do the install tomorrow. I flushed the cooler and the heat exchanger thoroughly. Should I fill the converter before I install the transmission? 

Yup, at 1-2 quarts at least.

Just put a quart in it. That's all you need...just for some prelube. Any more than that and you'll dump half of it back out when you're trying to get the converter lined up. 

Thanks guys. Getting started now. Hopefully be back on the road today.

Tranny is in but now I've got the O/D off light and trans temp light on. Disconnecting battery cables to see if that helps. Any other ideas?

Well, disconnecting the batteries didn't do any good. Wishful thinking I guess. I drove it briefly and it is in limp mode. Going to check the electrical side of it when the sun comes up. It doesn't make any sense. Wasn't in limp mode when the old transmission was in.

What I would look at is the wiring and plugs for the transmission. You may have had a pin push out of a plug and that could cause your problem.

What I would look at is the wiring and plugs for the transmission. You may have had a pin push out of a plug and that could cause your problem.

Well, I was right. They gave me the old style gov pressure sensor and the electrical kit and that did the trick. Its weird though. It had the old style sensor and solenoid in it but the 8 pin wiring had the newer connector with a pigtail installed to fit the old sensor. It wasn't homemade, it was a factory adaptor. Never seen that before. Anyway, I'm back on the road again. This thing hits like a sledgehammer when it shifts. I played with the TV cable and made it slightly better bit still hits hard. I have to say I like the new tranny. Looking forward to towing with it. As for Revmax, I will say they have good cuStomer service. It seems like a well built unit but only time will tell before I can give them an honest review. If Goerend still built complete transmissions I would have bought from them for sure but we'll see how this one does.

Glad to hear you are going again! One thing to watch for is the turbo baring when it shifts into O/D. My truck will bark something fierce if I have over 10 psi boost when it shfts into O/D. What I do towing is lock out O/D, run the speed up to 55-60 mph then let out of the throttle, reach up and hit the button, then ease back in to it. That way I get no barking.

Yea, I wish Goerends built them too. Even the customer service is not what it used to be.

Glad to hear you are going again! One thing to watch for is the turbo baring when it shifts into O/D. My truck will bark something fierce if I have over 10 psi boost when it shfts into O/D. What I do towing is lock out O/D, run the speed up to 55-60 mph then let out of the throttle, reach up and hit the button, then ease back in to it. That way I get no barking.

Yea, I wish Goerends built them too. Even the customer service is not what it used to be.

I know what you mean about that turbo bark. I'll be using that o/d off button.

Man, it's too bad it shifts that hard into OD. That's pretty hard on stuff...

Man, it's too bad it shifts that hard into OD. That's pretty hard on stuff...

Yeah. I worked with the TV cable a little more yesterday and made a huge difference. Normal driving is smooth now. I have to really get into it to make it bark. All it took was some driving and a little adjustment. I was at Revmax yesterday and they said they would be happy back of down some but I thing it's going to be fine.

Yeah. I worked with the TV cable a little more yesterday and made a huge difference. Normal driving is smooth now. I have to really get into it to make it bark. All it took was some driving and a little adjustment. I was at Revmax yesterday and they said they would be happy back of down some but I thing it's going to be fine.

So did you tighten it up or make it looser?

Yes, even though the 3-4 shift is PCM controlled as far as its actual shift point, backing off the TV cable will lower the line pressure during the shift, which will soften it up a bit...as long as the shift points for the 1-2 and 2-3 don't become too early as you back off the cable. How is the TCC lockup?

 

Raising the line pressure, 'steepening' the line pressure curve, and firming up the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts to a reasonable level, but without creating an overly harsh OD shift and TCC lockup at the top end is definitely part of the 'art' of valve body setup...!

So did you tighten it up or make it looser?

Loosed, very little at a time to find the just the right spot. Took quite a bit of driving and adjusting but it was worth it. Dynamic hit it on the nose.

You have to find the sweet spot. I went through the whole gamut before I was happy.

OK. Sounds easy enough!

OK. Sounds easy enough!

Oh its easy MnTom, but I left a small pile of hair on the carport from going back and forth. For some reason theres not as much hair up there to pull out these days. Guess I'm like my old truck, it ain't the years, its the miles!