Ok guys. I know this one has been hit before but I am having a hard time finding the old threads on it.

 

My question is this. What fluid should I use? Is a new gasket required when putting the cover back on? Do I need any additive do go with the fluid? I dont believe I have limited slip. One tire will spin freely on slick surfaces anyway.

 

This is on my 01 ram 2500. Dana 80 rear end with 3.55's.

 

Thanks for any tips!!

Ok got a couple more questions. How in the he** do you get the cover off if I don't have access to heat? Looks like they used grey rtv last time. I can't get I to budge!! Also, once I do get it off, are there torque specs for the cover bolts?

I know how you feel they can be a real pain to get off. I usually take a couple of my smallest, and I mean small, flat blade screw drivers and tap them under the cover towards the bottom until it starts to seperate. Next I have a small chisel I ground down to a thin point and a very gradual wedge. Once you break the seal on the rtv it usually comes pretty easy.

Be careful not to wedge it to hard in one area or you can tweak the flange on the cover. Also a chisel can put a pretty good gouge in the mating surface if you really get after it.

I don't know about torque specs but I clean the bolts up good and using a crisscross pattern snug the bolts while holding the head of the ratchet in the palm of your hand. Most new install leaking covers I've seen are caused by over tightening the bolts. Go around a few times and your done. Usually helps if you take a few beer breaks to prevent wrenches getting thrown.

Thanks for the tips. Gonna take one of those beloved beer breaks for a bit and warm up. Might try it again in a little bit.

I like to use heavy blade gasket scrapers, they are wider and will not damage or distort things like a screw driver or chisel when working it in gently with a small hammer.

Also make sure the bolt holes are cleaned out very good as well, I see way too many holes stripped out of housings cracked when folks run the bolts into holes with RTV half filling them up causing a hydraulic lock which easily strips threads or cracks housings.

Try a good putty knife; flat, wide and 9 times out of 10 won't gouge the case or bend the cover.  

That was the one tool I didnt try today!! Hopefully that will be the trick tomorrow. I should have drove the truck around a bit BEFORE starting this project. I am sure with the axle warmed up a bit, things would be a lot easier to work with.

 

Thanks again for the tips guys. Its nice to know that others have had problems too.

Well the scraper/puddy knife did the truck! Letting it drain for now. Will get it all back together this afternoon. Thanks again!!

That's why I only use the ultimate stuff on the more 'permanent' type joints!

Dang, after my maiden voyage yesterday... 'first long trip after front end rebuild and both axle fluid service'

my pinion seal on rear axle is passing some oil..

I'll check the breather..

about 10 years ago, I was out in a pasture fixing fence with it.. and I got tangled up in a blob of barb wire, which wrapped around the drives shaft about 12,000 times, and promptly and effectively wiped out the original seal.

Here I was, under the truck in a wide open praire, 3 miles from the nearest road, 10 miles from the nearest house, and a lightning storm bearing down on me.. Talk about the mission impossible theme song kick in!

After about an hour of maniacally yanking and cutting barb wire off the DS, I was able to get the hell out of there! All I had was my stupid fencing pliers.

Hopefully it's just the breather tube being blocked now, but something tells me the aftermarket seal I put in 10 years ago is toast..