pepsi71ocean

I replaced my tubes when i swapped the pump two weeks ago. bu i would certainly change the o rings on the tubes.

its nice to meet another Jerseyian here. I live in Atlantic County.

let me know how it goes with ACS so i can update the article.

This mirrors what I am finding on line pressures. I'm seeing 110 going down hill at idle, but in running about 90 hot.

Well everyone I checked the fluids cold, and later hot. I took it for a spin and it shifted just fine with the engine brake on. I also discovered that the pacbrake locks the torque converter in manual 2nd and when I'm driving with it I can keep it locked up. Very bizarre behavior, as I did not expect the torque converter to be locked and second gear. However during road testing today I did confirm this. Even with the current load it seems to be breaking so quickly. I suspect that the gearing in the truck means that even at the truck's current combined load of 18,400 lbs it is still not enough weight to determine whether or not second gear is required when breaking. But the truck will if you keep it in manual 2nd it will stay locked. 2,000 rpms on the tack at 30 mph. You can tell it's locked based on the rpms not jumping at all between braking and accelerating. I suspect the is the possibility that I was charging the intersection when I was breaking at the very tail end of the drive, maybe because I was rushing caused the truck to not want to shift fast enough? I'm at a loss of words here. I know charging intersections with an engine brake is not recommended. However over 2 hours of testing today have not shown the same symptoms at all. The only thing that needs to be addressed right now is the fact that the trans temperature gauge is not reading at all. I'm doing a PM tomorrow to check the other fluids before heading home. I did shoot some video porn for y'all! I'm going to upload it as we speak. VIDEOS Here is a video of about 30% throttle, which is fairly aggressive for acceleration in my truck. https://youtube.com/shorts/tDB2zxEWBgw?feature=share Here is a video of 50-60% throttle unloaded https://youtube.com/shorts/cIz5JmQW5-k?feature=share Here is engine braking into 2nd gear https://youtube.com/shorts/m9hhUEduo88?feature=share Here is the 2nd gear lock up that I was talking about. https://youtube.com/shorts/arSP-41cf4g?feature=share Here is a loaded acceleration video of the trick at 18,400lbs https://youtube.com/shorts/rS90zobfgpQ?feature=share Here is a 5% grade going over the twin span. https://youtube.com/shorts/hh_bB723BQg?feature=share

Well I made it to Florida with the truck. Of course when I was 15 mins away from the house in Florida I lost manual 2nd with the engine brake on. It still shifts fine however. I think maybe the fluid was really hot, or maybe low. I'll check it out in a day or so. But I bet now blow something out.

That would be great. I want to put together an article about this. Do you know by any chance what the speed is that your truck down shifts into second at if you put it in manual too at 40 miles an hour? My other question is do you know if you have a slow stall speed converter or is yours a stock stall speed converter? See I think the stall speed on the converter being lower on mine might be why mine engine brakes so hard even when the transmission is not locked up. But I could be wrong.

I guess that is a good thing to know. Would you consider running a gauge off the middle test port and letting me know what your seeing with the pack brake on, and off? When you downshift into 2nd you don't get much holding pressure? Is that locked or unlocked? Mine is unlocked and it seems to have good holding pressure.

Hey everyone, I have been playing with my 47re with my pacbrake. I'm starting to wonder what is a good healthy line pressure when engine braking. Right now I'm seeing 80-85psi at idle in drive, and driving down the road were about 110 with my foot out of the throttle. In the throttle I'm seeing about 125psi. When I'm engine braking I see about 115psi going from 2,000 to 1,250rpm. When I'm downshifting and in 3rd, I can move it to M2 and it will downshift at 32.5mph 1,250rpm. I have a lower stall torque converter and it seems to brake hard even on second. I was looking to see having the TC lock up when downshifting in second, but dynamic supposedly built it to do that, but so far the pacbrake hasn't done it. That's another issue I need to deal with. Any advice or input here, @Doubletrouble

Soft copper? Do you think it would tolerate that kind of force? I thought there was a company that was making steel braided lines?

Surprisingly they are sill in good shape, I did have to replace the output line a one point, but I bought it from the dealership. I'm not sure what is reasonable anymore haha, I just pay it if it makes sense. that's cheap compared to the $2,000 that they want for an OEM one!

Yes, I actually just bought one for good measure, I'm in the process of replacing the cooling system in its entirety. https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-3935812-1998-2002-Cummins-Transmission/dp/B078NJK53D?fbclid=IwAR1lSSExUZFR4JsQpPxHlihsAkfE2OHl6UFydDAxooOg8jEZAeNv73KSg0w

I love my Passat. Mine has the 1.8T gas in it though. But a APR tune, with a glass pack and it runs great.

Myself, the girlfriend, her three kids and her oldest daughters boyfriend are not vaccinated. We all had covid in October, her parents, her ex husband, his new wife and their two kids, also had covid with us. He run a restaurant that had to be shut down, and of the 6 employees 4 were positive. Out of the 6 of us living in the same house, 1 was asymptomatic, and I went into the hospital. we were vaccinated. On that side of the fence, 1 was asymptomatic, 2 were negative, 9 were vaccinated and 4 were hospitalized. I don't think the vaccine works, I really think that the antibody cocktail (which i was given) is actually way more effective then the vaccine. My dad is a doctor and they give covid positive patients in Florida dexamethsone and then the REGEN antibody cocktail, withing 24 hours of positive test (or arrival with symptoms, and that combination is 95% successful at stopping the virus, when given 5 day after exposure however its only 25% effective. Of course our idiot democratic govenor says they won't let you get REGEN until your admitted and that after 72 hours. Allot of the doctors here in Jersey aren't happy about that.

Where are you measuring your transmission temperatures, is a good question. I see it says Ohio is where you live. In which case you would be better the keep the exchanger to raise temperatures up to aid in transmission performance, I don't know if you know what its like to not have overdrive, but these transmissions suck when they are ice cold. Nothing wants to work hahah. On mine I'm measuring the output line from the transmission, I have shot it with a heat gun, and Ive seen a 30 degree change in temperatures through the heat ex changer. When stuck in traffic Ive seen the heat exchanger produce cooler temperatures then when it goes through the cooler out front. Especially in the summer in jersey. I elected to keep mine in place as I've seen in heavy traffic (transmission temp sensor 225), heat exchanger output is 200, cooler is 180, back into the transmission. I don't think that the cooler would drop it as much out front. I also run a 200F thermostat so that explains why the heat exchanger doesn't go much below that. In the winter when i first start driving i can see the heart exchanger bring the transmission temperature up 30-50 degrees fairly quickly, even if the cooler out front when its 10F out sucks the heat back out, its still better then sucking out the little heat it makes. I believe its 75F of transmission temp in the pan. Which can take a while. The other day it was 15F out here and i didn't have drive for the first 15 mins of driving because it was so cold out. I totally forgot to plug in the truck!